Jeryl E. Spear - Haircutting For Dummies

4 Part out a ¼-inch (0.6 centimeter) deep and a 2-inch (5 centimeters) side-to-side subsection .

5 Comb the hair straight up (90-degrees) from the scalp (see Figure 5-4).

6 Holding the hair with your second and third fingers of your non-cutting hand, position them so they are horizontal to the scalp and ½-inch (1.3 centimeters) away from the ends. Following your finger angle, trim ¼-inch (0.6 centimeter) off the ends ( Figure 5-3).

Repeat these practice steps, cutting the ends at vertical and diagonal angles. Lastly, practice curved angles.

Guides are to haircuts what patterns are to fashion designs; they act as a template for the length and shape of every style. When cutting the perimeter of a one-length hairstyle, for instance, you make a ¼-inch (0.6 centimeter) to ½-inch (1.3 centimeters) parting at the back/bottom hairline and comb this hair straight down. You then cut this thin section of hair to the desired shape and length of your finished style. This is now your guide. Every subsequent section of hair you section out and cut is combed down and cut to the same length and shape of this guide.

When cutting your guide, keep these two factors in mind:

Hair shrinks when it dries. The more texture the hair has, the more it will draw up during and after drying. (Straight, wavy, curly, and coily hair types are discussed in Chapter 4.)

Hair is more elastic when it is wet. This makes it important to never create more than mild tension on straight hair, and no tension on curly hair types when establishing your guides.

If a person has naturally curly hair, but the hair has been chemically straightened, you should evaluate and cut it as you would straight hair. (See Chapter 4for more information on hair types.)

Be sure to avoid these four pitfalls when following your guide:

Cutting the guide along with the rest of the cutting line. This changes the length and sometimes the angle of the hair as you move through the haircut.

Failing to keep your guide at the proper elevation from the scalp.

Taking thick cutting sections and losing track of your guide.

Mistaking other hair as your guide.

The following sections introduce you to the two types of guides: the stable guide and the traveling guide.

A stable guide — also called a stationary guide — is used to create weight, reduce weight, or add graduated layers that seamlessly become longer. As the name implies, a stable guide does not move around during the haircut. Instead, the hair is directed to the guide.

The following are cutting instructions for using a stable guide on a layered haircut (shown in Figure 5-8). This example removes a little weight off the top of the hair for added lift. By only cutting ¼ inch (0.7 centimeter) of length, the cut section will still blend with the rest of haircut. You can do this twice before needing a full haircut.

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.; Illustration by Rashell Smith

FIGURE 5-8:A stable or stationary guide.

What you’ll need: Mannequin, family member with a layered haircut, or your own hair; your new scissors (for human hair) or old scissors (for synthetic hair or processed human hair commonly used for wigs and hair extensions); a cutting comb; and a spray bottle filled with water to wet the hair. (I’m a wuss, so I always use warm water.) If you don’t have a spray bottle handy, dip your comb in a bowl of water.

When you’re ready, follow these steps:

1 Make a middle part at the top of the head and comb the hair down on either side of the part to ensure the hair is smooth and tangle-free.

2 Separate a ½-inch (1.3 centimeters) section of hair on either side of the middle part. Comb the middle and side partings together (see Figure 5-8).This is now your cutting section. Pin away the remainder of the hair. Dampen and comb the cutting section to ensure even saturation.

3 Comb and hold your cutting section at a 90-degree elevation (straight up) from the scalp.

4 Comb this section once more and hold the hair with your second and third fingers of your non-cutting hand. Slide your fingers up to about ½ inch (1.3 centimeters) away from the ends. Place your fingers at the exact angle as the existing cutting line, which may be a horizontal or a diagonal cutting line.Take your time. If you don’t clearly see the cutting line on the ends of the hair, dampen it a little more and comb the ends for better visibility.

5 Following the existing cutting line, cut ¼ inch (0.6 centimeter) off the ends. This is now your stable guide.

6 Separate an identical ½-inch section on either side of your existing cutting section. Dampen the hair and comb it up to your stable guide. Make sure the hair is thoroughly combed from roots to ends. Identify the stable guide and remove ¼-inch length of hair.

7 Continue repeating the pattern in steps 2 through 6 until the entire top to just below the recession area on both sides has been cut.

A traveling guide — also called a moving guide — travels with each haircutting section. It establishes the perimeter of the haircut and enables you to create uniform or graduated layers. The traveling guide, shown in Figure 5-9, is the most common type of guide used in haircutting, so it’s important to show it who’s boss at the beginning of your home-cutting adventure.

What you’ll need: A willing participant or a mannequin with long hair; scissors, cutting comb, clips or clamps, and a spray bottle filled with warm water (see Chapter 2).

One of the easiest cuts is removing a small amount of length to refresh the ends and keep them looking thick as opposed to straggly. Cutting ¼ inch (0.6 centimeter) of length off every two weeks will keep the hair a consistent length. (Hair grows about ½ inch [1.3 centimeters] per month.)

© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.; Illustration by Rashell Smith

FIGURE 5-9:A traveling guide moves as the haircut progresses to keep your design on track.

When you’re ready, follow these steps:

1 Brush the hair to ensure it is tangle-free. Lightly spray the hair with water until it is slightly damp. Comb, divide, and secure the hair into six sections — four sections in the back and two sections in the front.See Chapter 6for more information on sectioning.

2 Part out a horizontal, ¼-inch-thick section closest to the hairline from each of the back sections. Dampen and comb the freed hair straight down.Make sure the person or mannequin head you are about to cut is facing directly forward, and the jawline is parallel to the floor.

3 Visually divide the ends into three sections: middle and two sides. Place the teeth of your comb ½ inch (1.3 centimeters) above the existing ends of the middle section.The comb secures the hair and prevents it from drifting while you cut.