Martin Jacques - When China Rules the World

[354]Kayoko Aikawa, ‘The Story of Kimono’, in Atsushi Ueda, ed., The Electric Geisha: Exploring Japan’s Popular Culture (Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1994), pp. 111-15.

[355]Suzy Menkes, ‘Hitting the High Cs: Cool, Cute and Creative’, International Herald Tribune , 21 March 2006.

[356]Lise Skov, ‘Fashion Trends, Japonisme and Postmodernism, or What Is So Japanese About Comme des Garçons?’, in John Whittier Treat, ed., Contemporary Japan and Popular Culture (Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1996), pp. 137-65. Also interview with Valerie Koehn, Tokyo, May-June 1999; Menkes, ‘Hitting the High Cs’.

[357]Valery M. Garrett, Chinese Clothing: An Illustrated Guide (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1994), p. 35.

[358]Valerie Steele and John S. Major, China Chic: East Meets West (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1999), p. 16; also pp. 13–35. Also, Garrett, Chinese Clothing ; interview with Qiao Yiyi, fashion designer, Shanghai, April 1999.

[359]See Karl Gerth, China Made: Consumer Culture and the Creation of the Nation (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Asia Centre, 2003), Chapter 2.

[360]Steele and Major, China Chic , pp. 31-5, 37–53; also Chapter 9.

[361]Ibid., pp. 55–62; also Chapter 10.

[362]Ibid., pp. 63-7.

[363]Ibid., p. 44.

[364]Ibid., Chapter 4; interview with Shiatzy Chen, Taipei, March 1999; seminar on Chinese dress, Hong Kong, September 1999 (including Blanc de Chine).

[365]Steele and Major, China Chic , Chapter 4; ‘Asian Ideas Seep into Creations on the West Coast’, International Herald Tribune , 11 March 2002.

[366]Herman Wong, ‘On Global Catwalks, a New Face that’s Hot — Asian’, China Daily , 24 May 2006.

[367]Kosaku Yoshino, Cultural Nationalism in Contemporary Japan (London: Routledge, 1992), p. 112.

[368]Interview with Abdul Rahman Embong, Kuala Lumpur, March 2001.

[369]Interview with Valerie Koehn, Tokyo, May-June1999.

[370]Otto Pohl, ‘The West’s Glossy Magazines “Go Forth and Multiply”’, International Herald Tribune , 14–15 February 2004.

[371]Suzy Menkes, ‘Whose Sari Now?’ International Herald Tribune , 17 May 2008.

[372]Interview with Yang Qingqing, Shanghai, April 1999.

[373]Interview with Mei Ling, Taipei, March 1999.

[374]‘What Price Glamour? A Hard Lesson in Asia ’, International Herald Tribune , 2 May 2006.

[375]Amina Mire, ‘Giving You a Radiant White Skin “Because You Are Worth It”: The Emerging Discourse and Practice of Skin-whitening’, unpublished abstract for PhD, University of Toronto, 2004, p. 16.

[376]Ibid., for a fascinating account of the racial subtext of the whitening cosmetic industry, and the central role of East Asia. Also, Amina Mire, ‘Pigmenta tion and Empire: The Emerging Skin-whitening Industry’, A CounterPunch Special Report , 28 July 2005, pp. 6–8. Umbrellas carried by women as protection from the sun remain a peculiar and distinctive Chinese and Japanese preoccupation.

[377]Felipe Fernandez-Armesto, Millennium: A History of Our Last Thousand Years (London: Bantam Press, 1995), pp. 683-4.

[378]John G. Russell, ‘Race and Reflexivity: The Black Other in Contemporary Japanese Mass Culture’, in Treat, ed., Contemporary Japan and Popular Culture , pp. 17–19, 29–32; also Leo Ching, ‘Yellow Skin, White Mask: Race, Class and Identification in Japanese Cultural Discourse’, in Chen Kuan-Hsing, ed., Trajectories: Inter-Asia Cultural Studies (London: Routledge, 1998), pp. 65–86.

[379]Interview with Mei Ling, Taipei, March 1999.

[380] Pulse Bites: Consumer Insights Around the World , 1 April 1999, p. 4; ‘In China, a Big Appetite for Americana ’, International Herald Tribune , 26 February, 2002.

[381]K. C. Chang, ed., Food in Chinese Culture: Anthropological and Historical Perspectives (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1977), p. 3.

[382]Ibid., p. 3.

[383]Ibid., p. 4.

[384]Ibid., pp. 6–7.

[385]David Y. H. Wu and Sidney C. H. Cheung, eds, The Globalization of Chinese Food (London: RoutledgeCurzon, 2002), p. 4.

[386]Ibid., p. 3; Chang, Food in Chinese Culture , pp. 5, 7; Jacques Gernet, A History of Chinese Civilization , 2nd edn (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996), p. 428.

[387]Chang, Food in Chinese Culture , pp. 7–9.

[388]Ibid., pp. 9-10.

[389]Ibid., p. 363.

[390]Ibid., p. 11.

[391]Ibid., pp. 13–14.

[392]Jacques Gernet, Daily Life in China on the Eve of the Mongol Invasion, 1250 - 76 (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1962), p. 135.

[393]Fuchsia Dunlop, ‘Enthused by China ’s Tea Infusions’, Financial Times , 11–12 September 2004.

[394]Chang, Food in Chinese Culture , p. 375; Wu and Cheung, The Globalization of Chinese Food , p. 5; also Chapters 3, 8-11.

[395]Katarzyna Cwiertka, ‘Culinary Globalization and Japan ’, Japan Echo , 26: 3, June 1999, pp. 53-8.

[396]Ibid., p. 56.

[397]Wu and Cheung, The Globalization of Chinese Food , p. xviii.

[398]Ibid., pp. 56-8.

[399]As the American sinologist Lucian W. Pye argues: ‘In different times and places people have thought of power in very different ways… theories which seek to specify general propositions about power miss the point entirely.’ Lucian W. Pye, Asian Power and Politics: The Cultural Dimensions of Authority (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1985), p. viii.

[400]Ibid., pp. x, 26, 53.

[401]Interview with Chih-Yu Shih, Taipei, 1999.

[402]Pye, Asian Power and Politics , Chapter 3.

[403]Interview with Tong Shijun, Shanghai, April 1999.

[404]Pye, Asian Power and Politics , p. 327. Also Deepak Lal, Unintended Consequences (Cambridge Mass.: MIT Press, 1998), pp. 13, 153.

[405]Pye, Asian Power and Politics , pp. 62, 80.

[406]Interview with Chien Sechin Yung-Xiang, Taipei, March 1999.

[407]There is one sphere in which profound cultural differences are accepted and acknowledged in the West, namely the way in which, for example, the nature of Japanese and Korean firms reflects the cultures of their respective countries; Charles Hampden-Turner and Fons Trompenaars, Mastering the Infinite Game: How East Asian Values are Transforming Business Practices (Oxford: Capstone, 1997), especially Chapters 5–7; Fons Trompenaars, Riding the Waves of Culture: Understanding Cultural Diversity in Business (London: Nicholas Brealey, 1993), Chapter 11; ‘A Global Toyota Faces Dilution of Its Culture’, International Herald Tribune , 15 February 2007.

[408]See Göran Therborn, Between Sex and Power: Family in the World, 1900 - 2000 (London: Routledge, 2004), pp. 119-26; also Gavin W. Jones, ‘Not “When to Marry” but “Whether to Marry”: The Changing Context of Marriage Decisions in East and Southeast Asia’, in Gavin Jones and Kamalini Ramdas, eds, Untying the Knot: Ideal and Reality in Asian Marriage (Singapore: NU S, 2004).

[409]On the contrary, as Lucian Pye suggests, the form of modernization ‘will be significantly different from that produced by western individualism’: Pye, Asian Power and Politics , p. 334.

[410]In philosophical vein, the director and founder of the Shanghai Museum, Ma Chengyuan, puts it like this: ‘ China is now in the preliminary stage of modernization so the whole environment is very open — people have their space to do what they like. During the first stage of openness, many things come from outside. But if they can’t gain their roots in Chinese society, they will fade away.’ Interview with Ma Chengyuan, Shanghai, April 1999.