Simon Foster - CHINA's Three Gorges & Xi'an

www.actionaid.org/china

www.chineseredcross.org.cn/English

www.christian-aid.org.uk/world/where/asia/chinap

www.oxfam.org.hk

Photography

The old adage, take only photographs, leave only footprints, is a good one. This said, you should only take pictures of people who are happy to have their photo taken and also be aware that it's forbidden to take photographs at certain sites deemed of military importance (airports, bridges), and at some tourist locales like the Terracotta Warriors (although this rule is flagrantly ignored by many visitors). In popular tourist areas you may be asked to pay to take people's pictures – it's up to you whether you decide to do this, but bear in mind that, if you do, travelers who follow in your footsteps will certainly have to pay. The best way to get pictures of locals, though, is to strike up a conversation (or some kind of interaction) and offer to send them a copy of their picture. Make sure you fulfill your promise. For pictures of people, often you'll get the best picture by taking (or pretending to take) the posed photograph, then snapping another immediately afterwards, when the person has assumed a more natural posture or expression. While it's not always possible to coordinate your visit with the perfect time to take pictures, it's worth noting that early morning and late afternoon tend to offer the best light conditions. Mornings are also the time to catch the best street life, and many markets are at their busiest before the heat of day arrives.

When your camera memory stick is full you can take it to a photo developing shop and they'll put the images onto a CD (or print them) for you. For those who haven't joined the digital revolution, camera film is readily available and cheaper in China than at home. It's worth stocking up in reputable stores though, as stalls outside tourist sites are more expensive and the film may have suffered from sunlight exposure. Regardless of where you buy your film, you should always check the expiration date. There are also plenty of places, including Kodak stores, to get your pictures developed, but if you plan to have a lot of pictures processed, try one as a sample before committing yourself to rolls of washed-out photos. If you're a keen photographer and want taking pictures to be a major part of your trip then it's worth considering a photographic tour. Grasshopper(www.grasshopper adventures.com) runs excellent trips accompanied by Ewen Bell, an acclaimed photographer whose pictures are found in this book.

Etiquette

China's long history, so removed from Western civilization has left a minefield of different social customsthat can initially be baffling to foreign visitors. Fortunately, the Chinese see foreigners as very different from themselves and in most situations cultural faux pas will be ignored. However, that isn't to say you shouldn't try to conform when in China – if you do your actions will be both noticed and appreciated.

saving Face

While the Chinese often find Western self-flattery unseemly, they are inherently a proud people and one of the driving forces in Chinese etiquette is the concept of " face,” which can be likened to dignity. Activities such as arguing in public will result in loss of face for both parties and thus are to be avoided at all costs. Nevertheless, in a country where private space is limited and summers are swelteringly hot, tempers can fray and you may well come across furious screaming matches out on the street – once they've started it's the one that can hold on the longest who will save most face. Face can also mean that a request or opinion (especially from a more senior employee or elder) won't be challenged, because it will cause loss of face. Thus contentious issues are often avoided or, when they are brought up, the "right” responses are given no matter what the party concerned actually intends to do.

Do's & Don'ts

Eating throws up a host of potential pitfalls for the visitor. While breaking wind, burping, sometimes spittingand generally making as much noise and mess as possible are all acceptable, other seemingly innocuous activities, such as using a toothpick, are not. If you wish to pick your teeth you should do so by hiding your mouth with your other hand. Chopsticksalso offer more than just the problem of picking up your food with them (see Chopsticks callout). Likewise, drinking has a few associated protocols; toasts are so important that at formal dinners it's rude to drink without one, and you should try to keep your companions' glasses full, for they will surely do the same for you.

When meeting people, particularly in business, it is customary to make a small bowwhile clasping one hand over the other fist, although Chinese familiar with meeting Westerners may well just plunge straight in with a handshake. When presented with anything, you should receive it with both hands and, while a business card should be scrutinized before being carefully tucked away, a gift should be opened at a later time when not in the presence of its giver.

Studying & Working in China

Since China opened up in the early 1980s, people have been curious to come and experience life in the Middle Kingdom. Many come here to study traditional arts or the language and to teach English but, since China has found its economic feet, more and more people are coming here to do business (see Business Travel below).

Study

If you want to study the language, universities are the best bet – your local embassy should be able to provide you with a list of suitable universities, but there are also a host of other types of schools, including some where you teach English (see below) in return for your lessons. There are also schools that use traditional arts (such as calligraphy, painting, kung fu and tai chi – see Martial Arts for the latter two) as vehicles to teach the language. Wherever you choose to study, you'll get better results if you fully immerse yourself and cut yourself off from the English-language world. There are language and cultural studies schools mentioned in the relevant chapters, although some of these are aimed at short-term visitors. Good websites for cultural studies and language studies include www.educasian.comand www.worldlinkedu.com. Officially enrolled students with school identity cards will enjoy substantial discounts at all major sights.

Teaching English

In order to legally teach you need a working visa, which can be obtained with the school's help, although some places will let you carry on teaching with a standard tourist visa. Good schools might require you to have a degree or TEFL qualification, but plenty of places just want a foreign face to look good for the parents. Salaries typically range from US$400 to US$800 per month and hours might be as few as 15 or as many as 30 a week. Many places offer accommodation, food and maybe even a bicycle as part of the bargain!

If you're serious about your teaching, then it's best to head for a high school or one of the major private schools where you should find all the teaching materials and staff support you need; some of the cowboy operations will just send you into a classroom of mixed-age, mixed-ability children with no preparation whatsoever – "OK kids, today we're going to learn about Christmas.…”

Other Jobs

If you're posted to China by an international company, then many of your relocation needs are likely to be met by a specialist company that can help arrange moving, housing and domestic care. If, on the other hand, you arrive by yourself with no prospects, just a burning desire to work in China, do not despair. It's fairly easy to pick up some kind of work, perhaps teaching English, to support yourself in the beginning until you find the job you're after. Expat websites such as that's magazines (see Information Sources ) have job listings, as does China Daily . Speaking some Chinese will improve your prospects. In all work categories the highest wages are found in the big cities, but obviously the cost of living is also higher.