Simon Foster - CHINA's Three Gorges & Xi'an

Mobility International USA(tel.001-541-1343-1284, www.miusa.org)

Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality(SATH; 001-212-4477-284, www.sath.org)

Female Travelers

When compared with many other developing countries, travel for women in China presents few problems. Although you may well be stared at, this is invariably more of a curious gaze than an intimidating ogle. Indeed female travelers are more likely to be ignored than hassled. This said, in the far northwest more vigilance is advised and, as with anywhere, you'd be wise to take a few basic precautions, such as avoiding unlit areas late at night. Dress for women is fairly liberal and in the cities mini-skirts and skimpy tops are commonplace, though in rural areas you may feel more comfortable in conservative clothing.

Gay Travelers

Although homosexuality was long regarded a foreign peculiarity it is increasingly prominent in China, and loosely tolerated, if officially denied and illicit. The big cities have gay bars where foreigners may be approached, but be aware that public displays of affection are likely to cause a stir. Check out www.gay.com or www.utopia-asia.com for more on China's gay scene.

Facts & Figures

Electrical Current

Mainland and Macau electricity supply is 220Vthrough flat two-pinand angled flat three-pin plugs, although you'll also find round three-pin sockets! In Hong Kong the voltage is 200Vand plugs are of the square three-pinvariety (the same as the UK). Thus, a travel adaptoris a good idea.

Time Zone

Remarkable as it seems, all of China follows the same time zone, eight hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, 13 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time, 16 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time and two hours behind Australian Eastern Standard Time.

Weights & Measures

China predominantly uses the metric system, most obvious as kilometers for road distances (one km=0.62 mile). Market goods such as fruit are measured by the jin , which is half a kilogram (1.1 lb) and cloth is measured by the meter (3.28 ft).

Accommodation

At the dawn of modern tourism in China in the 1980s foreigners were only allowed to stay in certain designated hotels, but these days many more options are open, from five-star splendor to five-dollar dorms. However, when compared to some other countries, hotels in China are fairly characterless and functional, although there are more and more exceptions to this, and not just in the luxury bracket (see Escaping the Ordinary ).

As in most countries, room rates reflect standards to an extent, but mid-range and budget hotels are generically styled and don't tend to reduce their tariff as they deteriorate. Thus the best value (and keenest staff) are often found in newer lodgings. In terms of customer service, expensive hotels may meet the standards of their Western counterparts, but equally they may not, and in many mid-range hotels you may get the distinct impression that the staff thinks customers should feel privileged for being able to stay! Worse still, in places that see few foreigners, I've witnessed reception staff hiding behind the counter to avoid serving the lao wai (foreigners)! Something to remember every time you check into a hotel is to take one of their business cards, which has the hotel's Chinese name. Then you can go out, explore and get as lost as you like, then just jump in a cab when you want to come home.

Price Codes

The price codes used in this book are based on the cheapest double rooma hotel has in the high season (May to October). Thus, where two codes are mentioned, it means the range of rooms is such as to encompass different price brackets. Note that there's a 15% luxury tax added to room prices in upscale hotels (although this is often offset by a discounted rate). Discounts on advertised rates are almost standard and you should always try to strike a bargain. For dormitoriesthe prices per bed are individually listed.

Note that hotels in Hong Kongand Macauare significantly more expensive than on the mainland and these chapters have their own price codes.

Hotel Categories

Hotels in China are awarded stars according to their facilities and a good deal can also be ascertained from their Chinese name categories ( binguan , dajiudian , dajiulou , fandian , zhaodaisuo , luguan , in descending order of quality), although the divide between these can be blurry. While these categories imply certain standards, you're better off making your own judgment on the room rate. To see hotel classifications in this book, look at the hotel's pinyin name in the language box. Regardless of price, in your room you'll find some source of hot drinking waterfor making tea and a pair of plastic slippers, along with other any other amenities afforded. Almost all upscale and some mid-range hotels offer fitness centers(FC), swimming pools(SW) and in-room Internet access(@), but only a few have rooms with facilities for disabled people (DA) – see individual hotels for symbols.

Expensive($$$$-$$$$$; binguan, dajiudian, dajiulou, fandian ). In the big cities, international chains offer the same high standardsand (sometimes) service as they do worldwide, with prices to match (US$100 and upwards), and some of them even manage to inject a dose of flavor along with the luxury. These hotels are often well-located in the heart of the city, have all amenities, including countless restaurants, health facilities, swimming pools, Internet connection and, sometimes, a computer in the room, and front desk staff will generally speak some English. Chinese chains can offer similar services and facilities, although some of the finer points may be lacking.

Mid-range($$-$$$; binguan, dajiudian, dajiulou, fandian ). Almost every town of any size will have a hotel that falls into this category and, while standards and prices can vary enormously, you should at least be able to find a decent room in such a place. Rates for a double room in such hotels can start from 150 Yen (US$20), although 300 Yen (US$40) and upwards is more normal, especially in larger cities. If the room is too rich (or poor) for your taste, then ask at reception as many mid-range places have recently renovated smarter floors, and older, more decrepit, cheaper ones. Mid-range establishments should have rooms with attached bathrooms, TV and air conditioning, though they might be threadbare. There will also be laundry service, a restaurant, a travel desk of some sort and maybe a business center. Again, in these places you'll probably find someone who has a smattering of English.

Budget($). Below 150 Yen (US$20) zhaodaisuo , luguan , university roomsand hostels (see below) form the bulk of the options, but seemingly mid-range places can creep into this category.

In luguan and zhaodaisuo dorm bedsgo for as little as $20 a night and there are rooms for $40, but these will be very basic and maybe not that clean. For a little more you can usually get a dirt-free, comfortable and secure room, possibly with a TV and attached bathroom, though you might have to look around in a few places. In the cheapest lodgings the toilets are invariably of the squat variety. Almost all places have some kind of canteen or restaurant, usually serving cheap, local fare, and the floor attendants also often have a cabinet of snacks and drinks for sale.