Simon Foster - CHINA's Three Gorges & Xi'an

Budget accommodation is often clustered around transport hubs such as the bus or railway station, which is convenient for travel, but may be a long way from the town center, and not as pleasant a locale to stay in. This said, some hostels can be quite central and university lodgings, while often in the suburbs, usually have parks, gardens and trendy cafés or nightspots nearby. In some provincial cities and rural settlements budget options are still limited, since many places may not be authorized to let foreigners' stay. In such situations speaking a little Chinese can ease your path.

Hostels

As the backpacking scene heats up in China there are also increasing numbers of hostels, affiliated with HI ( Hostelling International) or otherwise. HI places offer a slight discount to card-carrying members. You can become a member online at www.hiusa.org (US), www.hihostels.ca (Canada), www.yha.org.uk (UK), www.yha.com.au (Australia), www.yha.co.nz (New Zealand), which costs around US$30 per year.

Rooms in HI places are generally clean but cramped and cheap, and they always have dorms ( duorenjia ; 50 Yen/US$6 or less) and sometimes an Internet café and bar, but some places with the name hostel might be more like mid-range hotels. Hostels are often centrally located and, for solo travelers, they make amenable places to meet other backpackers. The better HI hostels and linked U-Tel Hotels generally offer organized tours to points of interest and may run more adventurous pursuits such as hiking or cultural experiences like dumpling-making. They can also book hostels in other cities for you and can arrange bus, train and plane tickets for a small commission. Hostels also often have bicycles for rent and are good places to share experiences and pick up tips for destinations farther along your route. To book hostels in advance, either look up the individual websites listed in the relevant accommodation section, or check out one of the hostel booking sites: www.hostels.com, www.hostelbookers.com or www.hostelworld.com.

Booking & Finding a Room

While those on a budget may prefer to check out a few places before deciding where to stay, in the busiest times, such as holidays, or if you're arriving late or have only a little time to spend in a place, booking ahead is advisable. Almost all hotels listed in this book have at least a telephone number and many have e-mail or web addresses, but, outside of the better hotels or most tourist-friendly towns, you'll be lucky to find anyone who speaks any English on the telephone and websites may be Chinese-only. Therefore, if possible, have a Chinese speaker make the call (maybe someone from the hotel you're staying in), or get all your bookings made in advance through an agent such as Choice Travel (www.choicetravel.cn) or CITS (www.cits.net) – or on the Internet, which might also yield healthy discounts. Some useful accommodation booking websites include:

www.ase.net

www.chinatravel.com

www.ctrip.com

www.elong.com

www.travelchinaguide.com

But, if you decide to check out a few places before committing, it's a good idea to store your bag in one of the luggage lockersor offices at the bus or train station and then head out, unencumbered, to look at some rooms. This can save you from a wild goose chase where you end up accepting any old room because you're too tired to carry your bag. Of course, if you're after a budget deal, it may well be very close to the station, but, if it's an isolated place miles away (as is sometimes the case with university accommodation), then it's worth calling ahead to check if they're open and have availability.

Room Categories

Upon arrival, bear in mind that advertised rates are often open to negotiation,especially out of season. First you'll need to tell the receptionist the kind of room you're after, which is not always as simple as it sounds. Upscale hotels have rooms similar to those found in Europe and North America, but in some mid-range and most budget places there are a bewildering array of standards and sizes, so if you're not happy with what you see first, it's worth asking about other types. As a single traveler you'll usually be shown rooms with one single bed( danrenfang ), while couples might also initially be offered twin rooms( shuangrenfang ). In either case, for a double bed request a dachuang (for accommodation terms see Language at the end of this guide). There are also sometimes larger rooms with as many as eight beds. If you're traveling in a group and want to economize, ask about these. As a single traveler it's also possible to share a room with strangers to save money (as the Chinese frequently do), although this isn't an option commonly presented to foreigners except where dorms ( duorenjia ) are involved.

Checking in & Practicalities

When you check-in you'll need your passportand will have to fill in a registration form. In cheaper places this form will be in Chinese, so you may need some assistance and the staff might need help deciphering your passport. You have to pay in advanceand more expensive places may also request a credit card imprintas security, while those of a lower standard will need the equivalent of an extra night (or sometimes two) as deposit. At the bottom end of the spectrum (probably anything below $100), you may not be given a key, just a slip of paper to hand to the floor attendant who will open your room for you. But if you want a key it's often possible to pay another few yuan for this. Fear of damage, loss and theft runs high and in the room you'll find a "price list” in the event of guests breaking or stealing hotel property! Although hotels are generally fairly secure it's never worth testing this by leaving valuables lying around – more upscale rooms might have a safe, while others have one at reception. You should get a receipt for exactly what you deposit.

Escaping the Ordinary Hotel

After the beauty and character of some lodgings in other Asian countries, China's accommodation comes as a bit of a let down, but all is not lost – there are hotels that are more than just places to stay, at all levels of the price spectrum. Indeed some of the best are simple, but tastefully styled small hotels. While top hotels can certainly offer luxury, you often get the feeling you could be in any city anywhere in the world. The expensive options in the list below escape this uniformity and are decidedly unique.

Lusongyuan, Beijing $$-$$$$

Red Capital Ranch, Great Wall, Beijing $$$$$

The Commune, Great Wall, Beijing $$$$$

Grand Hyatt, Shanghai $$$$$

Number 9, Shanghai $$$$

Pingjiang Lodge, Suzhou $$$$

Old Street Hotel, Tunxi $$$

The Hotel of Modern Art, Guilin $$$$$

Mountain Retreat, Yangshuo $$

Jia, Hong Kong $$$$-$$$$$

The Peninsula Hotel, Hong Kong $$$$

Pousada de Sao Tiago, Macau $$$$

Pousada de Coloane, Macau $$$

Homestays

Staying in someone's home is a great way to really experience Chinese lifeand can be inexpensive as well. Host families often speak some English, but if they don't it's a sure way to develop your Chinese. For more information, check American International Homestays (www.commerce.com/homestays), or www.chinahomestay.org, who can also arrange longer stays.

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