Simon Foster - CHINA's Three Gorges & Xi'an

Internet

In spite of the mammoth task it appears to be, the Chinese authorities are committed to controlling Internet use and thus they restrict access to certain websites, predominantly political or religious. But even Google was temporarily blocked in 2002and has recently agreed to remove websites that feature sensitive issues from its search results. On my most recent trip, www.wikipedia.com was inaccessible and in Shenzhen icons of police officers come up on screen when you enter a website or chatroom. Incoming digital documents are also monitored through a nationwide firewall that scans for combinations of suspect words. Thus, in terms of real news, the Internet can be a disappointing medium, but it offers insight on how the country operates, and it's worth trying to find what you want, since access levels vary.

Radio

On the radio you'll mostly hear a mix of Canto-popand Mando-pop(see Music ), opera, Taiwanesetracks and Western coversbut, beyond music, unless you can understand Chinese, your options will be fairly limited. Some of the bigger cities have English-language stations such as Hit FM(77.7FM) and Easy FM(91.5FM), but otherwise it's a case of searching out the BBC World Serviceor Voice of America(see www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice and www.voanews.com for frequencies and schedules).

Television

A flick through China's TV channels can be an interesting experience, encompassing Beijing Opera, old war movies, ridiculous gameshows, costume dramas and authorized news. However, for English-language programs, unless you're staying in an upscale hotel, which might have CNNand international movieand sports networks, you'll need to check out CCTV9. This state-run English channel offers culture, news, sports and travel, all of it "approved,” although it can be informative nonetheless. You may even see Canadian Mark Rowswell (aka Dashan, meaning Big Mountain), arguably China's most famous foreigner, who has become a household name thanks to his flawless Mandarin, and still appears on CCTV educational shows. CCTV6sometimes shows Western movies in English at around 10 pm. In Hong Kong, Pearl TVis the English-language channel and, as with most things in Hong Kong, it is far freer in its programming, with regular Hollywood movies and hit series such as Sex and the City and The West Wing .

Health

If you come to China for any length of time there is a chance you could get sick, and indeed, in winter, half the populace seems to be ill, but a few preparatory steps should help minimize any impact on your trip.

Minor Illnesses

Most people's fear is of stomach illnessand in many countries around the world a change in cooking ingredients, oil and water can cause "Delhi belly,” "Montezuma's revenge,” "the Pharaoh's curse,” or whatever you want to call it. However, this is far less common in China, where fresh ingredients are cooked very quickly, at high temperatures. You can further reduce your chances of sickness by a few basic hygiene measures – wash your hands often, keep your nails clean and try not to share eating utensils. Wateris another area to watch – drink only boiled or mineral water and brush your teeth with it as well. If you're going well off the beaten track it's worth taking water purification tablets along with you. In spite of precautions you could still end up with an upset stomach. If so, as long as it's nothing too serious, rest, plenty of water and rehydration salts generally resolve the problem. Try not to take diarrhea stoppers unless you have to travel, as they can make the problem linger. If you have longer-lasting symptoms, or blood or mucus in your stool, see a doctor.

Far more likely in this crowded country is a throator chest infectionbrought about by a combination of germs from a billion Chinese spitting (see Etiquette ), pollution and the difference in temperatures when changing from air-conditioning to sweltering heat. If it's nothing serious, lozenges can keep your throat lubricated; cold and flu remedies and rest should bring about recovery.

Mosquito-Borne Diseases

Mosquito-borne illnesses aren't a serious problem in most parts of China, but malariaand dengue feverdo occur in the south, notably in Hainan and southern Yunnan. If you're visiting these regions during the summer, it might be worth taking anti-malarial prophylactics. While malaria is transmitted by the anopheles mosquito, which tends to bite from dusk onwards, the zebra-striped aedes aegpti ,which can carry dengue fever, strikes in the daytime. But taking a few precautions should stop you from getting bitten in the first place. Keep covered up from sundown, wear repellent (containing some, but not too much DEET), burn mosquito coils and, if you have the inclination, buy a "hunter” – an electrified fly-swat in the shape of a small tennis racket available in Chinese supermarkets which, in very non-Buddhist fashion, eliminates the bugs.

AIDS, SARS & Bird Flu

While long denied by the authorities, AIDSis a serious problem in China, ever more so as the country relaxes its sexual attitudes. The situation is exacerbated by high levels of prostitutionand the refusal of many men to wear condoms (which are easily available), along with increasing drug use in the south. However, the most worrisome of China's health risks are posed by potentially fatal new forms of flu viruses such as SARS(Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome) and more recently bird flu. Although neither has, as yet, developed into the feared global pandemic, many experts say it is only a matter of time. If there is a suspected outbreak, travel can be seriously affected and then, of course, there's the risk posed by the disease itself, so see www.cdc.gov/travelfor the latest.

Getting Medical Attention

For more serious ailments or injuries, see a doctor, ideally at a hospital in a bigger city, where the chances of an English-speaking doctor(and better facilities) are greater. If there isn't anyone who speaks English, see Language , at the end of this guide. for some useful phrases. For less serious or longer-term problems it's interesting and sometimes beneficial to try some Traditional Chinese Medicine.

Before You Leave

There are a few things you can organize from home to further prepare for your trip. It's worth taking a small first aid kitwith you, especially if you'll be heading off the beaten track. The following items make for a good, basic kit:

Antiseptic cream and wipes

Assorted plasters

Bandages

Butterfly stitches

Cold and flu remedy

Cotton wool

Dressings

Insect bite cream

Iodine

Rehydration sachets

Scissors

Sterile needle and suture kit

Surgical cream

Throat lozenges

Vitamin pills

Secondly, it's also a good idea to have some basic medicinal drugswith you. Although many drugs are easily available over the counter in China, communication may be an issue and in smaller towns you might not find what you need. So taking along antihistamines(for allergic reactions), an all-purpose antibiotic, a basic cold and flu remedy, diarrhea stoppersand painkillersmight be useful, but check with your doctor for what's appropriate for you.