Joseph McElroy - Women and Men

Passing the turnoff to the Navajo mine, he turned off and drove the few miles up to see it again, leaving the power plant around the lake where it was. An Indian family were picking up pieces of waste coal in shovels and buckets, children, grandfather, woman bending over in a long skirt, a little boy swinging a huge shovel, all specializing. They were alone against the low, dark tumuli of slag, and down in the valleys smoke slowly rose from some of the strip-mined craters, a gleaming pipe down one path in the bank, a crane at rest, power lines nearby, crows cawing. The family watched him turn.

Between the family and this Rock he drove the rented car; and the Rock was in the side window, then in the windshield, in the other side window, in the windshield again, while he floated into the Agency town of Shiprock ten miles by air from the Rock, sparse and spread-out reservation town with wide highway for main drag, Route 550 from Farmington, but before he hit the supermarkets, before probably pregnant women easing out of the drivers’ seats of pickup trucks they’ll be paying for, before the Bureau down a side road, before employment offices, before more than this, he negotiated a violent U-turn and pulled into a gas station. So for a couple of clicking, ringing minutes he listened to the Navajo attendant explaining that one day he will come back here with a law degree and work for DNA (young, glasses, skin pimply, long hands eating a square of process cheese peeling the plastic back just before the teeth reach it). DNA? Oh, D.N.A. The only organized opposition that gasification has experienced. (Words to be dropped down a well but recovered in future at what level?) Could you write that out? Sure, got a pencil? The hand that peeled the cheese, pens at the car window Dinebeiina Nahiilna Be Agaditahe, Inc., attorneys who contribute to the economic revitalization of the people. Well, not only opposition to the strip mining; remember the ad hoc groups and the Indian Youth Council.

So long and — hello U-turn and — on the right bearing out of town the Navajo Community College branch, pale stucco (what is stucco?), before he hit the bridge over what’s left of the San Juan River that’s come down from the Colorado mountains and into which the Chaco (which is more river bed ) turns, extending south to be joined at least on the map by Coyote Wash down past Sheep Springs, the direction of Gallup, road to Albuquerque too.

Ship Rock at this stage increasingly on the right. Until here’s the right turn off onto the Red Rock road.

But no place is single; he was always doubling back. Like to Farmington, mile upon mile behind him, the motel bed-telephone (new invention) and the Albuquerque environmentalist woman somewhere in Farmington last night, sounding together, "needing" him (she said), she had to see him before he collected his thoughts, his reactions, before he wrote his "report," before he went back East (please?), she’d drive him to Albuquerque, she had an Indian engineer friend right there in Farmington. Even return your car for you.

But Ship Rock got closer, Farmington further, and with it the Four Corners Power Plant and the Navajo Mine, the family digging in the dark piled-up surface among the billows of coal and waste.

Until he turned. And left the Gallup road and went a few miles west along the Red Rock road, past a single hogan with curtains in a window— hogan, hexagonal earth-roofed or wood-roofed Navajo dwelling, more like the real thing than the shoe hogan billboarded back in Anglo Farmington, boots for Indian and Anglo alike, like Prairie Schooner Steak Pit, but more like Igloo Kayak Center a fast paddle inland from Boston (but whatever happened to the Chicanos? let’s achieve a little racial balance, they wear shoes, they eat, they live, they remember the Mexican War, some of them around Farmington believe that all of that land belongs to all of them from olden times, and they have no Chicano reservation) — and at last onto the desert-dirt track roughly with the great dike-rampart on his left now, and he stopped two, maybe two and a quarter miles from the Rock to catch up with himself, and as if he hadn’t quite meant to be, he was here, having passed through not much more than himself standing here for half an hour, forty-five minutes, usefully alone, finding now a smoking cigarette coming out of his mouth between his fingers, also now thinking he has to get all the way back to Farmington to return the car and take his plane, and rubbed the wrong way by the separation of that hollow wholeness into now two accelerating sounds, the camper he saw coming from the Rock closer and closer, the outline of the crown and brims of the driver’s hat and someone on the left with him, and the car he turned and knew he’d see coming up behind his own with a woman driving and a man in the other front seat, the vehicles closing on him until he wishes for a blanket door he could throw up and disappear by.

A bleached beer can stands upright near a low bush and a candy wrapper.

A truth is that Ship Rock isn’t so alone as it seems. But it is so much bigger than any of the other igneous intrusions that are within a twenty-mile radius that this Rock is what it seems.

(Throw in a couple of oil-drilling rigs.)

Has the god come and gone?

Several, of both sexes.

And went away together bickering about who was the most beautiful and terrible.

He’s between cars, cars on top of him. He looks above the camper truck coming from the Rock and the Indian in the driver’s seat with big hat and trooper’s sunglasses, and his girl with him — and looks beyond to Ship Rock which recedes; and then the camper comes to a stop looking at him, and the car coming up behind him comes to a stop, and he hears a woman — the woman — call his name here in the desert and his hackles are up and he can’t not turn to her, thinking of the past and of his dispersed family, to say, "What brought you?" and she answers, like a former wife who still bears his memory, "You did."

He looks still harder at Ship Rock. Time lost and running. Time looks through his eyes. At the possibilities for him.

Shipbuilding, for instance. Prime instance of the wisdom of the division-of-labor principle in the pursuit of the wealth of nations. Adam Smith or someone similar in those days thought so. Two hundred years ago. Eighteenth-century shipbuilding.

Rock men, red men, rich men, energy men, workmen, women, and men came here with him yet were waiting for him here; but having consolidated into a whole company they disperse now like family.

Look at Ship Rock for the last time.

Because — for God’s sake — he’s just seen this — or heard it said inside him — for God’s sake, the Rock doesn’t look like a ship! Doesn’t look like a volcano either, nor the stuff coming up out of a volcano — word’s "tuff," he thinks (but only after it’s hard, he thinks, so he’ll have to ask). The main thing is that the Rock doesn’t look like a ship, for the moment.

A discovery earned. But he won’t labor the point. Divide the labor; he did the discovering.

He is the center of a traffic jam in the middle of nowhere, three vehicles, gangsters, agents, famous kidnapped South American economist being handed over. But the camper has cut around him — what’s a road, out here? — and is detouring cross-country for the moment and he hears music from the car and he recalls what followed "hy-po-thet-i-cal" on the jukebox last night and it was "des-ti-nation."

Drop words into welcome well, draw up silence: fair trade: silence to the People.

He looks away toward the other car and sees with the Albuquerque woman an Indian — portly, young. He’ll know what organization the letters D.N.A. stand for. Something about lawyers who contribute to the economic revitalization of the people.