Monisha Bharadwaj - Indian Cooking For Dummies

I use a 14-inch (diameter) karahi for a curry for four people, but I also have a huge set of karahis in varying sizes all stacked up in my kitchen drawer. I also use them for frying, because the convex shape allows the oil to pool at the bottom, which means you can use much less oil than you would need in a frying pan. You can cook curries, dals, and dry vegetable dishes in karahis. And best of all, they’re dishwasher safe!

Photograph by Wendy Jo Peterson and Geri Goodale

FIGURE 3-2:Karahis.

A tava (see Figure 3-3) is a flat or slightly convex griddle for cooking chapattis, rotis, or other stovetop flatbreads on. You can choose between an iron tava that gets seasoned when used regularly or a nonstick one.

A Western substitute for a tava is a 10-inch nonstick frying pan that can comfortably hold a roti.

Dosas are South Indian rice and lentil crêpes (see Chapter 17). They need to be spread thinly so they go a bit crisp while cooking. A dosa pan (see Figure 3-4) is flat and large (around 13 inches), and it doesn’t have sides, so you can spread the batter right up to the edge. The lack of sides also makes it easy to get under the dosa and flip it.

I don’t know of a single Indian kitchen that doesn’t have at least one pressure cooker. Typically, these are traditional pressure cookers that seal the food in and time the cooking process with a series of whistles. You may find recipes (though not in this book) that ask you to cook a curry for “three or four whistles.” Some modern pressure cookers, such as the Instant Pot, are electric.

Photograph by Wendy Jo Peterson and Geri Goodale

FIGURE 3-3:A tava.

Photograph by Wendy Jo Peterson and Geri Goodale

FIGURE 3-4:A dosa pan.

I love using pressure cookers! They cut down on cooking times and are very fuel efficient. The tight lid has a release vent and helps keep the steam locked in. Pressure cookers cook food using moisture, unlike ovens, which use dry heat. Many Western cooks have told me they’re frightened of pressure cookers blowing up, but honestly, modern ones are much safer than the ones that were used years ago.

You can buy pressure cookers in various sizes. I have about five in my kitchen — small ones for everyday cooking and the largest one for entertaining. I use them to cook meats, lentils, potatoes, and even rice. I’ve seen a large pressure cooker being used to cook three things at once, to make a quick meal — a stack of shallow dishes with a lid on top can contain rice, dal, and vegetables. These are placed in the cooker with some water at the bottom and in each individual dish. The cooked lentils and vegetables can later be spiced up in a separate pot.

Whichever pressure cooker you buy, follow the manufacturer’s instructions, because they vary.

An Instant Pot is more than a pressure cooker. You can use it to build curries by adding various building blocks to the pot and then cooking everything together. Some ingredients that are popular in the Indian kitchen (such as beans, lentils, and meats) can take a long time to cook, but the Instant Pot, which is a combination of a pressure cooker and a slow cooker, can take the pressure off and cook them to perfection without your needing to stand by stirring the pot. Put your ingredients into the pot in the correct sequence, adjust the settings, and walk away to finish other chores. You’ll have a fuss-free dinner waiting for you when you return.

Because the Instant Pot has temperature settings you can adjust, they’re also great for fermenting foods. Getting your dosa batter to go all bubbly is easy in an Instant Pot, as is making soft, set yogurt.

After you’ve bought your spices, store them correctly to keep them fresh for as long as possible. Spices contain volatile oils that can dissipate with time and improper storage. I have a three-way system at my cookery school (I buy large bags to decant into jars and then into my spice tin), where we cook with spices every day.

To make your cooking really easy and to feel like an expert Indian cook, treat yourself to a spice tin (or masala dabba ). They’re usually round, made of stainless steel, with seven small bowls that fit snugly inside (see Figure 3-5). Some have a double lid to seal in the freshness. With a proper spice tin, you’ll have your favorite spices on hand just with the opening of one lid.

Photograph by Wendy Jo Peterson and Geri Goodale

FIGURE 3-5:A spice tin.

You’ll find lots of different spice tins on the market, made of metal or plastic. You can even find fancy wooden ones. I prefer a steel spice tin, because they’re easy to wash, won’t get stained, and don’t absorb the flavors of the spices. Choose a size that fits your kitchen and needs, but don’t worry too much about the size — you’ll be refilling your tin from time to time anyway.

Don’t overlook the lid when you’re choosing a spice tin. Lids vary, and the wrong lid, made of glass or clear plastic, could mean the slow demise of your spices, which like to live in dark, dry conditions. Choose an opaque lid instead.

Most spice tins come with a small spice spoon, but if yours doesn’t, buy one. A regular teaspoon won’t fit easily into the small bowls. You can use the same spoon for all the spices, but if you’re fussy, sets of small, stainless-steel spice spoons are also available.

Here are some tips on using your new friend in the kitchen:

Choose your spices. Spice tins around India contain a varying mix of spices depending on the regional cuisine. Fill your tin with whatever you use most. My essential spices are black mustard seeds, cumin seeds, ground cumin, ground coriander, turmeric, medium-hot chile powder, and garam masala.

Fill your tin. Buy small packs of spices and use them up quickly so your stock remains fresh. Decant the spices into your spice tin, and seal and store the remainder in a dark, dry cupboard. Refill your tin as and when necessary, but fill each bowl only three-quarters full, or you’ll end up with a mess.

Keep your spices fresh. Spices like to stay dry. When adding them into your pan while cooking, just tip a spoonful in and resist the temptation to do an artistic sprinkle. The longer you hold your spice spoon over a steaming pot, the more the moisture it will bring back to the tin, making your spices clumpy.