Michel Chevalier - Luxury Brand Management in Digital and Sustainable Times

1 Cover

2 Title Page Luxury Brand Management in Digital and Sustainable Times FOURTH EDITION Michel Chevalier Gérald Mazzalovo

3 Copyright

4 Introduction

5 Chapter 1: The Concept of Luxury A Problematic Definition Chronicle of a Semantic Evolution Classification of Existing Definitions Luxury Values True Luxury, Intermediate Luxury Luxury, Being and Appearing Five Sources of Legitimacy New Luxury Conclusion on the Notion of Luxury Notes

6 Chapter 2: Specificities of the Luxury Industry What Is So Different About the Luxury Industry? Financial Characteristics Time Frame The Key to Success in Luxury Goods The Major Operators Note

7 Chapter 3A: Major Luxury Sectors Ready-to-Wear Activities Perfumes and Cosmetics The Leather Goods Market Note

8 Chapter 3B: Major Luxury SectorsWines and Spirits The Watch and Jewelry Market The World of Hotels and Hospitality Conclusion on the Major Luxury Sectors Notes

9 Chapter 4: The Power of the Luxury Brand The Value of a Brand The Characteristics of the Brand The Brand and Its Signs The Legal Aspects and the Defense of a Brand Fighting Counterfeit Activities Notes

10 Chapter 5: The Luxury Client Who Is the Luxury Client? The New Client Customer Attitudes by Product Category and Nationality The Analysis of Clients by Nationality Conclusion Notes

11 Chapter 6: Brand Identity: Concepts and Analytical Semiotic ToolsBrand Identity The Brand Hinge: Ethics and Aesthetics Brand Ethics Analytical Process: Some Practical Clues Brand Aesthetics Analytical Process: Some Practical Clues The EST-ET ©Diagram Brand Identity Strategic and Operational Implications General Considerations on the Brand Identity Concept Other Approaches to Brand Management Notes

12 Chapter 7: Additional Brand Analytical Tools Brand Life Cycle The Identity Prism The Rosewindow The Semiotic Square Semiotic Mapping The Narrative Scheme The Semionarrative Scheme A Few Words on Semiotics Notes

13 Chapter 8: Creation and Merchandising Merchandising Creation Brand Aesthetics Art and Brands Notes

14 Chapter 9: Communication in Digital Times Digital Times Communication Specificities of Digital Communication Not Forgetting “Traditional Communication” Conclusion Notes

15 Chapter 10: Managing a Global Brand International Distribution Systems Dealing with Online Operators Licensing Activities The Special Case of Duty-Free Operations The Parallel Market: Reasons and Consequences

16 Chapter 11: Retail Management Why Is Retailing So Important Today? The Present Retail Situation for Luxury Brands Basic Retail Management Concepts Store Location Budget, Planning, and Control Staffing, Training, and Evaluation The Store as a Communication Tool The Challenge of the Seamless Online, Offline Process The Future of Luxury Retailing Notes

17 Chapter 12: Sustainability and Authenticity Sustainability Brand Authenticities Overall Conclusion Notes

18 Appendix A: Applying Brand Identity Analytical Tools Sasin Brand Ethics Sasin Brand Aesthetics Note

19 Appendix B: Glossary of Digital-Related Terms App CC Cookie Engagement rate Facebook Ads GAFAM Google Ads HTML http https Influencer Internet Lead Meme MMS Pagerank SEO SMS The Web Troll URL Webinar Wiki Note

20 Index

21 End User License Agreement

1 Chapter 2 Table 2.1 Fashion Cycle for a Fall–Winter Collection Table 2.2 The Paradox of Luxury-Goods Marketing Table 2.3 Bain's Estimates of Business Size, 2018 (€ billion) Table 2.4 Our Estimates of Basic Luxury Products Business Sales, 2019 (€ bill... Table 2.5 Estimates of the Respective Contributions of French and Italian Com... Table 2.6 Major Luxury Operators, 2019 (or 2018/2019) (€ million) Table 2.7 LVMH: Sales and Results, 2009 and 2019 Table 2.8 Scorecard of LVMH Results (€ million) Table 2.9 LVMH Geographical Split, 2019 Table 2.10 Kering Historical Sales and Results (€ million) Table 2.11 Richemont Historical Sales and Profit (€ million) Table 2.12 Richemont Performance by Product Lines, 2005–2019 (€ million)

2 Chapter 3A Table 3.1 The Fashion Mega-Brands (Sales above €1 billion) Table 3.2 Second-Tier Fashion Brands (Sales of €100–1 billion) Table 3.3 Cost of Making a Woman's Suit in France (€) Table 3.4 Examples of Niche Collections for Major Perfume housesa Table 3.5 Comparison of Cost Structures for a Product Sold in Different Count... Table 3.6 Brands with Sales Above €300 Million Table 3.7 Second-Tier Brands (Sales €100–300 million) Table 3.8 Performance (€ million) of the Major Luxury Perfumes and Cosmetics ...Table 3.9 Major Leather Goods Manufacturers (2019)

3 Chapter 3BTable 3.10 Breakdown of Major Rum Brands (in million cases of nine liters)Table 3.11 The World's Most Powerful Spirits, 2018*Table 3.12 Number of Top 30 Brands Sold by Different OperatorsTable 3.13 Performance (€ million) of the Top Nine Operators (2019/2020)Table 3.14 Estimated Sales (including watches) of Major Jewelry Operators, 20...Table 3.15 Estimated Sales of Complication/Upscale Watch OperatorsTable 3.16 Estimated Sales of Jewelry and Specialty Watch Operators 2019Table 3.17 Estimated Sales for Fashion and Mood and Watch Operators, 2019Table 3.18 The Major Hotel GroupsTable 3.19 Top Luxury Hotel Brands

4 Chapter 4Table 4.1 The Place of Luxury in the Global Brand Picture (2019)Table 4.2 Interbrand's Top Luxury Brands (2019)Table 4.3 Brand Value Changes Between 2001 and 2019 (€ million)Table 4.4 Brand Registration Categories

5 Chapter 5Table 5.1 Nationality of the Millionaires (in thousands)Table 5.2 Nationality of BillionairesTable 5.3 Breakdown of Luxury Clients in Developed CountriesTable 5.4 Why Are People Buying Luxury Items by Age?Table 5.5 Household Income and Household Expenditures by Age in the United St...Table 5.6 Purchases of Luxury Goods by Geographical GroupsTable 5.7 Expectations of Luxury for Different NationalitiesTable 5.8 Number of Chinese Luxury Consumers and Total Spending by Age Group ...Table 5.9 Reasons for Buying Luxury ProductsTable 5.10 Preferred Brands for Gift-Giving in ChinaTable 5.11 Advertising Spending in America in 2019

6 Chapter 6Table 6.1 Jim Thompson Brand Ethic (2017)Table 6.2 Jim Thompson Brand Aesthetics (2017)Table 6.3 Brand Aesthetics Analytical GridTable 6.4 Brand Aesthetics Analytical Grid Applied to Jim Thompson (2015) Syn...Table 6.5 Three Purposes of Aesthetic Treatments

7 Chapter 8Table 8.1 Detailed Merchandising Briefs for Each Subcategory of SuitsTable 8.2 Collection Plan for Thomas Brand Menswear SS 2019Table 8.3 Theoretical Price Structure for Luxury Ready-to-Wear and Leather Ac...Table 8.4 Minimum Number of Final Prototypes to Be Produced Every Season for ...Table 8.5 Performance Indicators for Product Empowerment Teams

8 Chapter 9Table 9.1 Effects of Digital Technology on Society, Brands, and ConsumersTable 9.2 Brand Historical Evolution (note that the dates are approximate as ...Table 9.3 Comprehensive Media PlanTable 9.4 Comparative Analysis of Retail and E-commerce KPIsTable 9.5 Cardon's Typology of Social Networks

9 Chapter 10Table 10.1 Pricing in Different Zones (Perfumes and Cosmetics)Table 10.2 Cost Structures for Europe (Perfumes and Cosmetics)Table 10.3 Cost Structures for Japan and Mexico (Perfumes and Cosmetics)Table 10.4 Clients' Online Research Before BuyingTable 10.5 Perfumes Brands Under License or Developed Internally: The Situati...Table 10.6 Breakdown of Sales of Japanese License Activities by Product Categ...Table 10.7 Estimates of Duty-Free Activities at Major International Air/Ferry...Table 10.8 Duty-Free Pricing SystemTable 10.9 Price Structure for the Duty-Free Operator

10 Chapter 11Table 11.1 Stores and Sales History of a Selection of BrandsTable 11.2 Mix of Distribution Systems for Three Brands with Different Econom...Table 11.3 Number of Online and Offline Contacts Before and During a PurchaseTable 11.4 Percent of Sales of a Fashion Luxury Brand According to Different ...