Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon - Handbook of Enology, Volume 2

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As an applied science, Enology is a collection of knowledge from the fundamental sciences including chemistry, biochemistry, microbiology, bioengineering, psychophysics, cognitive psychology, etc., and nourished by empirical observations. The approach used in the
is thus the same. It aims to provide practitioners, winemakers, technicians and enology students with foundational knowledge and the most recent research results. This knowledge can be used to contribute to a better definition of the quality of grapes and wine, a greater understanding of chemical and microbiological parameters, with the aim of ensuring satisfactory fermentations and predicting the evolution of wines, and better mastery of wine stabilization processes. As a result, the purpose of this publication is to guide readers in their thought processes with a view to preserving and optimizing the identity and taste of wine and its aging potential.
This third English edition of
, is an enhanced translation from the 7th French 2017 edition, and is published as a two-volume set describing aspects of winemaking using a detailed, scientific approach. The authors, who are highly-respected enologists, examine winemaking processes, theorizing what constitutes a perfect technique and the proper combination of components necessary to produce a quality vintage. They also illustrate methodologies of common problems, revealing the mechanism behind the disorder, thus enabling a diagnosis and solution.
Volume 2:
The Chemistry of Wine and Stabilization and Treatments Coverage includes: Wine chemistry; Organic acids; Alcohols and other volatile products; Carbohydrates; Dry extract and mineral matter; Nitrogen substances; Phenolic compounds; The aroma of grape varieties; The chemical nature, origin and consequences of the main organoleptic defects; Stabilization and treatment of wines; The chemical nature, origin and consequences of the main organoleptic defects; The concept of clarity and colloidal phenomena; Clarification and stabilization treatments; Clarification of wines by filtration and centrifugation; The stabilization of wines by physical processes; The aging of wines in vats and in barrels and aging phenomena.
The target audience includes advanced viticulture and enology students, professors and researchers, and practicing grape growers and vintners.

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1.2.3 Organic Acids from Fermentation

The main acids produced during fermentation are described in Table 1.2. The first to be described is pyruvic acid, due to its function as a “crossroad compound” in cell metabolism, although concentrations in wine are low, or even nonexistent. Following reduction by a hydride, or H −, ion (from aluminum or sodium borohydride) or by a coenzyme (NADH) from L- and D‐lactate dehydrogenases, pyruvic acid produces two enantiomers of lactic acid, L and D. The first dextrorotatory form is mainly of bacterial origin, and the second levorotatory form mainly originates from yeasts.

The activated, enol form of the same acid, phosphoenolpyruvate ( Figure 1.2) adds a nucleophile to carbon dioxide, producing oxaloacetic acid, a precursor of aspartic acid via transamination.

The enzymatic decarboxylation of pyruvic acid, assisted by thiamine (vitamin B1) pyrophosphate (TPP), produces acetaldehyde (ethanal), which is reduced to form ethanol during alcoholic fermentation. Its enzymatic, microbial or even chemical oxidation produces acetic acid.

Another acid that develops during fermentation due to the action of yeast is succinic, or 1‐4‐butanedioic, acid. Concentrations in wine average 1 g/l. This acid is produced by all living organisms and is involved in the lipid metabolism and the Krebs cycle, in conjunction with fumaric acid. It is a diacid with a high p K a( Table 1.3). Succinic acid has an intensely bitter, salty taste that causes salivation and accentuates a wine's flavor and vinous character (Peynaud and Blouin, 1996).

TABLE 1.2The Main Acids Produced During Fermentation

FIGURE 12 Biosynthesis of oxaloacetic acid from phosphophenolpyruvic acid - фото 9
FIGURE 12 Biosynthesis of oxaloacetic acid from phosphophenolpyruvic acid - фото 10

FIGURE 1.2 Biosynthesis of oxaloacetic acid from phosphophenolpyruvic acid.

Like succinic acid, citramalic acid, or α ‐methylmalonic acid, confused with citric acid in chromatography for many years, is of yeast origin.

In conclusion, it is apparent from this description that, independently of their origins, most of the main organic acids in must and wine consist of polyfunctional molecules, and many are hydroxy acids. These two radicals give these acids polar and hydrophilic characteristics. As a result, they are soluble in water and even in dilute alcohol solutions, such as wine. Their polyfunctional character is also responsible for the chemical reactivity that enables them to develop over time as wine ages. In this connection, results obtained by monitoring ethyl lactate levels in Champagne for two years after malolactic fermentation are highly convincing. Indeed, after two years of aging on the lees, concentrations reach 2 g/l and then decrease. The degree of acidity, indicated by the p K avalues of these acids, controls the extent to which they are present in partial salt form in wine ( Table 1.3).

A final property of the majority of organic acids in wine is that they have one or more asymmetrical carbons. This is a characteristic of biologically significant molecules.

TABLE 1.3State of Salification of the Main Inorganic and Organic Acids (Ribéreau‐Gayon et al., 1977)

Category Name p K a Form in wine
Strong inorganic acids Hydrochloric Less than 1 Completely dissociated salts
Sulfuric 1 Approx. 1
Sulfuric 2 1.6
Sulfurous 1 1.77 Acidic bisulfite
Phosphoric 1 1.96 Acidic phosphate
Strongest organic acids Salicylic 2.97 Acid functions partly neutralized and partly free (not highly dissociated)
Tartaric 1 3.01
Citric 1 3.09
Malic 1 3.46
Formic 3.69
Lactic 3.81
Tartaric 2 4.05
Weakest organic acids Benzoic 4.16 Free acid functions (very little dissociated)
Succinic 1 4.18
Citric 2 4.39
Acetic 4.73
Butyric 4.82
Propionic 4.85
Malic 2 5.05
Succinic 2 5.23
Citric 3 5.74
Weak inorganic acids Phosphoric 2 6.70 Free acid functions (almost entirely non‐dissociated)
Carbonic 1 6.52
Sulfurous 2 7.00
Hydrogen sulfide 1 7.24
Carbonic 2 10.22
Phosphoric 3 12.44
Phenols Polyphenols (tannin and coloring) 7–10 Free (non‐dissociated)

1.3 Different Types of Acidity

The fact that enologists need to distinguish between total acidity, pH, and volatile acidity demonstrates the importance of the concept of acidity in wine. This is due to the different organoleptic effects of these three types of acidity. Indeed, in any professional tasting, the total acidity, pH, and volatile acidity of the wine samples are always specified, together with the alcohol and residual sugar contents.

The importance of total acidity is obvious in connection with flavor balance:

Looking at this balance it is understandable that dry white wines have a - фото 11

Looking at this balance, it is understandable that dry white wines have a higher total acidity than red wines, in which phenols combine with acids to balance the sweet taste of the alcohols. Volatile acidity indicates possible microbial spoilage.

1.3.1 Total Acidity

Total acidity in must or wine, also known as “titratable acidity,” is determined by neutralization using a sodium hydroxide solution of known normality. The end point of the titration is still often determined by means of a colored reagent, such as bromothymol blue, which changes color at pH 7, or phenolphthalein, which changes color at pH 9. Using one colored reagent to define the end point of the titration rather than the other is a matter of choice. It is also perfectly conventional to use a pH meter and stop the total acidity assay of a wine at pH 7, and, indeed, this is mandatory in official analyses. At this pH, the conversion into salts of the second acid function of the diacids (malic and succinic) is not completed, while the neutralization of the phenol functions starts at pH 9.

The total acidity of must or wine takes into account all types of acids, i.e. inorganic acids such as phosphoric acid, organic acids including the main types described above, and amino acids whose contribution to titratable acidity is not very well known. The contribution of each type of acid to total acidity is determined by its strength, which defines its state of dissociation, as well as the degree to which it has combined to form salts. Among the organic acids, tartaric acid is mainly present in must and wine as a monopotassium acid salt, which still contributes toward total acidity. It should, however, be noted that must (an aqueous medium) and wine (a dilute alcohol medium), with the same acid composition and thus the same total acidity, do not have the same titration curve and, consequently, their acid–base buffer capacity is different.

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