Jeryl E. Spear - Haircutting For Dummies

Before turning into a white-knuckle shopper as you approach the register with an armful of tools, consider this: In some instances, nearly any old tool can do the job. If you’re only planning on cutting your child’s bangs, for instance, or doing an end-trim on your dear Auntie J’s hair, that inexpensive comb that you’ve been keeping in your bathroom drawer for the past several years will probably do the trick. The same is almost true for scissors. While you should never try cutting hair with the blunt-nosed pair that you keep in your children’s arts-and-crafts box, a simple $20 pair of haircutting scissors may be exactly what you need. It really depends on how much you’re willing to spend, how often you use the scissors, and how serious you are about cutting hair. (I have found that Fromm International, www.frommpro.com , has the best inexpensive shears for home haircutting on the market. They are sold online and at beauty stores.)

Straight or stamped scissors are the cheapest type of scissors on the market. They’re stamped out of metal, cookie cutter-style, have little or no hand finishing, and are sold as $2 paper scissors, $5 kitchen scissors, and $12 (or less) haircutting scissors.

These ubiquitous tools are referred to as “straight” because the blades are neither beveled nor convex. (The following sections explain these two desirable blade designs.) Straight scissors frequently allow the hair to become bunched or slide down the blades while you’re cutting. If you must purchase scissors in this price range, you can partly remedy this problem by cutting a much thinner section of hair at a time.

Beveled scissors are also referred to as German or European scissors because they originated — and are still produced — in Solingen, Germany. German-style cutlery typically has beveled blades, an old-world design with tapered tips. German-style scissors also have micro-serrated blade edges (a very fine notching) to help grip and cut the hair. They work well for blunt end cuts, but aren’t suitable for more advanced techniques like slide cutting.

The price of German-style scissors typically ranges from $25 to $200. This broad spectrum of costs depends on the number of finishing steps, the quality of the work, the number of deluxe features and, to be honest, the brand name.

Beveled blades munch the hair like a sharp axe; convex blades slice the hair like a razor.

Convex, or Japanese-style, scissors cut like straight razors. The convex blades are hollow ground, meaning that some metal is scooped out of the interior of the cutting blade to create a very sharp edge. Because Japanese-style scissors traditionally offer the smoothest, most effortless cutting experience, they’re the tool of choice for most professional stylists.

Due to their keen cutting surface and meticulous finish, Japanese-style scissors are also the most expensive cutting tools. A decent pair starts at about $80 and quickly escalates to $300 and beyond.

Ergonomics are a godsend for hairstylists who are at high risk for developing carpal tunnel syndrome. Scissors with opposing handles (side-by-side finger and thumb rings) were taken out of the dark ages several years ago when a variety of ergonomic scissor handles were introduced to the professional beauty industry. These handles — offset, crane, or swivel designs — help to eliminate stress on the thumb and wrist joints and, in some cases, the shoulder as well. These features are important to hairstylists who do multiple haircuts every day. (Figure 2-1 and Figure 2-2b show offset handles; Figure 2-2a shows opposing handles. The latter is acceptable for specialty scissors because they are only used briefly or occasionally when cutting hair.)

For the home haircutter who does an occasional haircut, using ergonomic scissors isn’t necessary. But if you frequently line up your entire family for back-to-back Saturday morning haircuts, you will experience far less joint and overall hand and shoulder fatigue by using ergonomic scissors.

In terms of handle designs, I prefer using offset handles that keep the thumb in a more natural position. Other people prefer a crane-style handle that places the thumb joint in a stress-free position and the wrist straight and horizontal with the blades.

Swivel handles allow the thumb to move freely, with some designs having both thumb and finger swivel rings. I don’t recommend them for home haircutters as they can take you on a wild ride and be downright dangerous in unpracticed hands.

Specialty scissor designs are only limited by the tool designer and the stylist’s imagination. They are commonly referred to as chunking, thinning, texturizing , and blending scissors, depending on the design and the number of teeth, and the whims of the manufacturer. Figure 2-2 shows two types of specialty scissors — texturizing scissors and thinning scissors.

© iStockphoto.com/Catalin Plesa (left); Fromm International (right)

FIGURE 2-2:Nothing blurs scissor marks — those pesky lines that show where you’ve cut the hair — faster than specialty scissors.

Although the names of these tools are decidedly fuzzy, one look at their teeth tells you what they can do: Large, wide-spaced teeth create chunky cuts by removing wider snippets of hair. They are generally used to create interesting patterns in the hair, especially in the bang area. Fine, closely spaced teeth create smooth, diffuse cutting lines by removing finer snippets of hair. (Specialty tools cost anywhere from $20 to $300 or more, depending on the quality, design, and the brand name.)

The more teeth specialty scissors have, the more diffuse the results, hence scissors with 28 teeth or more are referred to as thinning scissors, and those with 5 to 6 teeth are called chunking (or channeling) scissors.

Although the effects of specialty scissors look impressive, they’re actually quick and easy to use as long as you follow three simple rules:

Never use specialty scissors near the scalp unless you want bits and pieces of hair to stand on end.

Frequently comb through the hair to remove loose snippets that tend to obscure how much hair you’ve really removed.

Use a light touch until you’re experienced enough to know what the finished results will be.

Buying the perfect pair of scissors is one thing, but maintaining them is quite another.

If you want to keep your scissors performing like new for months at a stretch, follow these seven easy-care tips: