Lisa Chaney - Coco Chanel - An Intimate Life

46 Ibid.

47 Courrier du Préfet de Police, Direction de la Sûreté Générale, Contrôle Générale des Services de Police Ad. No. 583. I am indebted to Marika Genty for this document.

48 Ibid.

49 Ibid.

5 °Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.

51 This section, see James McMillan, Twentieth-Century France , pp. 147–51, and Julian Jackson, France: The Dark Years , pp. 561–66.

52 Jackson, pp. 577–92.

53 Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.

54 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit , pp. 113–15.

55 Charles Roux, pp. 346, 349.

56 Malcolm Muggeridge, Chronicles of Wasted Time, vol. XI, The Infernal Grove , p. 242.

57 Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.

58 Documents and letters between the Foreign Office and the Zonal Executive Offices, Germany, between 1947 and 1948: http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/catalogue/displaycataloguedetails.asp?CATLN=6&CATID=1957690, and CATLN=6&CATID =3579445&j=1.

CHAPTER 28: Exile

1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , pp. 146, 147.

2 Ibid., p. 12.

3 Ibid.

4 Ibid., p. 170.

5 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 173.

6 Guy de Rothschild, The Whims of Fortune , p. 216.

7 Ibid.

8 Paul Morand, Journal inutile , January 11, 1971.

9 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert , p. 292.

10 Ibid.

11 Ibid., p. 300.

12 Diana Mosley, ed., The Letters of Nancy Mitford , p. 267.

13 Morand, Allure , p. 140.

14 Ibid., p. 65.

15 Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire , p. 52.

16 Swiss Archive documents cited above.

17 Morand, Allure , p. 171.

18 Ibid., p. 143.

19 Ibid., p. 73.

20 Ibid., p. 120.

21 Ibid., p. 169.

22 Ibid., pp. 172–73.

23 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own , p. 267.

24 Charles Roux, Chanel , p. 380.

25 Haedrich, p. 237.

26 In an interview and a number of telephone conversations, Michel Déon was most helpful in his nonjudgmental attitude toward Gabrielle, including the fantasies crucial to her sanity.

27 Michel Déon interview with author, August 2009.

28 Ibid.

29 Ibid.

30 Ibid.

CHAPTER 29: Return: 1954

1 Dodie Kazanjian and Calvin Tomkins, Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman , p. 205.

2 Christian Dior, Dior by Dior , p. 16.

3 Ibid.

4 Ibid., p. 4.

5 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion , p. 237.

6 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel , p. 197.

7 Ibid., p. 200.

8 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 120.

9 Chanel Conservatoire interview with Jean Cazaubon.

10 Galante, p. 207.

11 Cocteau, Le passé défini: Journal , vol. II.

CHAPTER 30: I Prefer Disaster to Nothingness

1 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 169.

2 Ibid., p. 171.

3 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel , p. 210.

4 Susan Train interview with author, September 2008. Ms. Train’s vivid recall of this dramatic episode was inspiring.

5 Ibid.

6 Ibid.

7 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 18.

8 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.

9 Lady Derwent interview with author, May 2008.

10 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion , p. 311.

11 Ibid.

12 Galante, p. 225.

13 Diana Vreeland, DV , p. 132.

14 Ibid., p. 131.

15 Ibid., p. 130.

16 Ballard, p. 60.

17 Vogue , March 1959.

18 Marquand, p. 87.

19 Ibid., pp. 93, 119.

20 Roland Barthes, The Language of Fashion .

21 Haedrich, p. 215.

22 Ibid., p. 245.

23 Ibid., p. 240.

24 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 45.

25 Galante, p. 268.

26 Morand, Allure , p. 52.

27 Galante, p. 269.

28 Haedrich, p. 178.

29 Ibid.

3 °Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire , p. 142.

31 Ibid., p. 145.

CHAPTER 31: I Only Hear My Heart on the Stairs

1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 55.

2 Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire , p. 49.

3 Marika Genty, whose knowledge and apprehension of Gabrielle are almost unrivaled, in interview with author, September 2008.

4 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 222.

5 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel , p. 276.

6 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.

7 Morand, Allure , p. 21.

8 Ibid.

9 Michel Déon in interview with author.

10 Haedrich, p. 260.

11 Morand, Allure , p. 38.

12 Haedrich, p. 214.

13 Paul Morand, Journal inutile , June 3, 1969.

14 Claude Delay, interview with author, January 2010. Madame Delay’s thoughts on her friend’s inner life were instructive, and her comprehension of Gabrielle as unable to survive without her fantasies is most perceptive.

15 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit , p. 43.

16 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.

17 Marquand.

18 Delay, p. 147.

19 Ibid., p. 161.

20 Ibid.

21 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.

22 Haedrich, p. 259.

23 Marquand, p. 167.

24 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.

25 Marquand, pp. 150–51.

26 Haedrich, p. 86.

27 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.

28 Delay, p. 164.

29 Massaro interview, Marika Genty.

30 Michel Déon, Bagages pour Vancouver , p. 276.

31 Morand, Allure , p. 169.

AFTERWORD: Those on Whom Legends Are Built Are Their Legends

1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 175.

2 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 226.

3 Un Roi Seul, Dir. T. Demaizière and A. Y. Teurlai, 2008.

4 Suzy Menkes in interview with Karl Lagerfeld, International Herald Tribune , November 2010.

5 Un Roi Seul .

6 Morand, Allure , p. 21.

7 Chanel interview BNF.

8 Suzy Menkes in interview with Karl Lagerfeld, International Herald Tribune, 2010.

9 Haedrich, p. 17.

10 Morand, Allure , p. 45.

WORKS ON CHANEL

Baudot, François, Chanel, New York: Assouline, 2003.

Bott, Daniele, Chanel: Collections and Creations , London: Thames and Hudson, 2007.

Charles Roux, Edmonde, Chanel , trans. Nancy Amphoux, London: HarperCollins, 1989.

——, The World of Coco Chanel , London: Thames and Hudson, 2005.

Delay, Claude (née Baillén), Chanel Solitaire , trans. Barbara Bray, London: Collins, 1973.

Fiemeyer, Isabelle, Coco Chanel: Un parfum de mystère , Paris: Petite Bibliothèque Payot, Editions Payot & Rivages, 2004.

Galante, Pierre, Mademoiselle Chanel , trans. E. Geist and J. Wood, Chicago: H. Regnery, 1973.

Gidel, Henry, Coco Chanel , Paris: Editions Flammarion, 2000.

Haedrich, Marcel, Coco Chanel , trans. C. L. Markmann, London: Robert Hale, 1972.

Haye, Amy de la, Chanel: The Couturière at Work , London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1994.

Leymarie, Jean, Chanel , Geneva: Editions d’Art Albert Skira, 1987.

Madsen, Axel, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own , New York: Henry Holt and Co., 1990.

Marquand, Lilou, Chanel m’a dit , Paris: Editions Jean-Claude Lattès, 1990.