Lisa Chaney - Coco Chanel - An Intimate Life

13 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène , p. 61.

14 Following polo at Deauville, Arthur is noted by Le Gaulois arriving at Dieppe on his yacht and then spotted the next day at the casino. Throughout the 1910s, he is regularly referred to in Le Figaro, The New York Times , et cetera.

15 Letter from Arthur Capel to Diana Wyndham: “I hate the main road & the crowd. The world I know is of my own making, the other makes me sick. Their morals, their convictions, their ambitions mean nothing to me. Fancy, sympathy & illusion have ever been my bed mates & I would never change them for Consideration, Position or Power.” Capel correspondence, courtesy of Christopher Osborn. This letter is undated, as are all those from Arthur.

16 Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion , pp. 71–72. I based my argument here on Ms. Steele’s description of the grisettes in this thought-provoking book.

17 Ibid., p. 71.

18 Ibid.

19 Charles Roux, Chanel , p. 113.

20 Elisabeth de Clermont-Tonnerre née de Gramont, Mémoires, vol. IV, La treizième heure , p. 154.

CHAPTER 8: Refashioning Paris

1 Vanessa Schwartz, Spectacular Realities , p. 229. Ms. Schwartz informed my descriptions of the development of mass culture in Paris.

2 Colin Jones, Paris: Biography of a City , p. 410. I am indebted, for this section, to this excellent work on Paris.

3 Ibid., p. 365.

4 Ibid., p. 386.

5 Schwartz, p. 92.

6 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 37.

7 Ibid.

8 Ibid.

9 Arthur Capel, What Will Tomorrow Be Made Of? , p. 77.

CHAPTER 9: The Rite of Spring

1 Revue de Paris , t. 6, pp. 279, 276. Blanche, regarded by some as ingratiating, was sharp tongued, a fine portraitist, and also made it his business to know everyone.

2 Modris Eksteins, Rites of Spring , p. 31.

3 Ibid., p. 72.

4 Ibid., p. 73.

5 Sjeng Scheijen, Diaghilev , p. 454.

6 Jane Pritchard, Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes , “Diaghilev the Man,” p. 41.

7 Eksteins, p. 39.

8 Mary Davis, Classic Chic , p. 26. Mary Davis’s seminal work was most helpful in the section on Poiret and the relationship between fashion and developing modernism.

9 Ibid.

10 Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion , p. 230.

11 Femina , September 1, 1913.

12 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau , p. 89.

13 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 37.

CHAPTER 10: The End of an Epoque

1 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène , p. 124.

2 Ibid.

3 Arthur Capel, What Will Tomorrow Be Made Of? , p. 18.

4 George de Symons Barrow, The Fire of Life , p. 149.

5 Ibid., p. 151.

6 Elisabeth de Clermont-Tonnerre, Mémoires , vol. III: Clair de lune et taxi-auto , p. 36.

7 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 43.

8 Ibid.

9 Ibid., pp. 43, 45.

1 °Clermont-Tonnerre, Mémoires , vol. III, p. 79.

11 Ernest de la Grange, Open House in Flanders , December 29, 1914, p. 77.

CHAPTER 11: Master of Her Art

1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 46.

2 All references in this section ibid., p. 52.

3 Ibid., p. 45.

4 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel , p. 37.

5 Amy de la Haye, Chanel: The Couturière at Work , p. 20.

6 Baronne de la Grange, Open House in Flanders , August 8, 1915, p. 143.

7 Morand, Allure , p. 39.

8 Galante, p. 38.

9 Ibid., p. 37.

10 Ibid.

11 Ibid., p. 39.

12 Ibid.

13 Morand, Allure , p. 42.

CHAPTER 12: The War Bans the Bizarre

1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 38.

2 Letter from “the General Officer, Commander in Chief, the British Army in France” to “the Secretary, War Office, London,” March 20, 1916, National Archives, Kew.

3 C. E. Callwell, Sir Henry Wilson: His Life and Diaries , vol. I, p. 205.

4 Morand, Allure , p. 42.

5 Max Egremont, Under Two Flags , p. 27. This admirable biography was instructive in my understanding of what Arthur Capel’s work as a liaison officer would have been like. Spears’s comments on Arthur (from Spears’s diaries in Colonel Anthony Aylmer’s collection) were another vital step in discovering Arthur’s life.

6 Cahiers André Gide , vol. VIII, p. 214, J. E. Blanche to André Gide, February 15, 1917.

7 Charles Roux, Chanel , p. 162, and John Pomian, J. Retinger: Memoirs of an Eminence Grise , p. 35.

8 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau , p. 184.

9 Sjeng Scheijen, Diaghilev , p. 323.

10 Mary Davis, Classic Chic , p. 117.

11 Scheijen, p. 331.

12 Davis, p. 117.

13 Ibid., pp. 128–29.

CHAPTER 13: Remember That You’re a Woman

1 Charles Roux, Chanel , p. 164.

2 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert , p. 198.

3 Ibid., p. 196.

4 Ibid., p. 202.

5 Ibid., p. 197.

6 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène , p. 144.

7 Ibid., p. 135.

8 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 143.

9 Morand, Lewis et Irène , p. 142.

10 Sir Jeremy Hutchinson in interview with author, September 2008.

11 Christopher Osborn in interview with author, September 2008.

12 Arthur Capel’s correspondence, Christopher Osborn. These letters proved invaluable in “reading” Arthur and the relationships with Diana and Gabrielle.

13 Ibid.

14 Christopher Osborn, in interview with author, June 2009.

15 Arthur Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.

16 Ibid.

17 Max Egremont, Under Two Flags , p. 66.

18 Michelle Maurois, Déchirez cette lettre , p. 125.

19 Edward Stanley, Paris 1918: The War Diary of the British Ambassador , May 29, 1918, p. 25.

20 Georges Bernstein-Gruber, Bernstein le magnifique , p. 165.

21 Arthur Capel, What Will Tomorrow Be Made Of? , p. 79.

22 Ibid., pp. 79–80.

23 Ibid., p. 80.

24 Maurois, p. 160.

25 Morand, Allure , p. 43.

CHAPTER 14: Alone

1 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène , p. 140.

2 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 37.

3 Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.

4 The Papers of Alfred Duff Cooper (1st Viscount Norwich), DUFC 12/8, July 5, 1918, Churchill Archives Center, Cambridge.

5 Ibid.

6 Scotland’s People website, www.scotlandspeople.gov.uk.

7 Edward Stanley, Earl of Derby, Paris 1918: The War Diary of the British Ambassador , August 11, 1918, pp. 133–34.

8 Georges Bernstein-Gruber, Bernstein le magnifique , p. 166.

9 Benquet Agency letters.

10 Earl of Derby, p. 161, August 22, 1918.

11 Michelle Maurois, Déchirez cette lettre , p. 15.

12 Ibid., p. 160.

13 Liane de Pougy, My Blue Notebooks , p. 54.

14 Lady d’Abernon, Red Cross and Berlin Embassy, 1915–1926: Extracts from the Diaries of Viscountess d’Abernon , November 28, 1918, p. 56. My thanks here to Lady Polly Feversham.

15 Christopher Osborn in interview with author.

16 Ibid.

17 Viscount Norwich, Duff Cooper Diaries , April 9, 1918, October 29, 1918, and November 5, 1918. The notion that Duff Cooper and Diana Capel had an affair (Justine Picardie, Coco Chanel , p. 88) is based on a misreading of these diaries.