Lisa Chaney - Coco Chanel - An Intimate Life

18 Ibid., November 11, 1919.

19 Phillip Norcross Gross, Oscar Edward Fleming’s nephew, has been helpful with new information on Antoinette Fleming née Chanel.

20 Norwich, December 23, 1919. These diary entries proved crucial in the last piece of the Arthur Capel/Diana Capel/Chanel puzzle.

21 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own , p. 99.

22 Norwich, January 21, 1920.

23 Charles Roux, Chanel , p. 178.

24 Stonyhurst Magazine and Le Gaulois, January 2, 1920.

25 Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.

26 Ibid.

27 Ibid.

28 Morand, Allure , pp. 54–55.

CHAPTER 15: Beginning Again

1 Colin Simpson, Artful Partners , pp. 168–78.

2 Elisabeth de Clermont-Tonnerre, Mémoires , vol. IV, La Treizième Heure, p. 154.

3 Charles Roux, Chanel , p. 183, and Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own , p. 106.

4 Services Archives-Documentation, Mairie de Garches.

5 Churchill Archives Center DUFC12/8, 17.

6 Paul Morand, Venices , p. 121.

7 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 59.

8 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 112.

9 Ibid.

1 °Charles Roux, p. 196.

11 Morand, Allure , p. 62.

12 Ibid., p. 60.

13 Ibid.

14 Ibid., p. 63.

15 Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).

16 Richard Buckle, Diaghilev , p. 161.

17 Morand, Allure , p. 84.

18 John Richardson, A Life of Picasso , vol. III, p. 39.

19 Buckle, p. 364.

20 Mary Davis, Classic Chic , p. 226.

21 Richardson, vol. III, p. 174.

CHAPTER 16: The Strangest and Most Brilliant Years

1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 107.

2 Mary Davis, Classic Chic , p. 179.

3 Morand, Allure , p. 127.

4 Chanel interview BNF.

5 Richard Buckle, Diaghilev , p. 412.

6 Davis, pp. 183–85.

7 Ibid., p. 179.

8 Chanel interview BNF.

9 John Richardson, A Life of Picasso , vol. III, p. 177.

10 Gaia Servadio, Luchino Visconti: A Biography , p. 41.

11 Morand, Allure , p. 128.

12 Ibid., pp. 30–31.

13 Ibid., p. 31.

14 Morand, Lettres du voyageur , letter to Valentine Hugo, January 2, 1921.

15 Morand, Allure , p. 128.

16 Ibid., p. 81.

17 Chanel interview BNF.

18 Arthur Rubinstein, My Many Years , p. 151.

CHAPTER 17: Dmitri Pavlovich

1 Pavlovich diaries, February 9, 1921. For guiding my thoughts on Dmitri Pavlovich, and painstaking translations of all of the following diary entries, I am most grateful to William Lee. www.directarticle.org/Will_Lee_Sue_Woolmans.html.

2 Marie Pavlovna, A Princess in Exile , p. 71.

3 Ibid., p. 130.

4 Ibid.

5 Amanda Mackenzie Stuart, Consuelo and Alva Vanderbilt , p. 158.

6 Pavlovich, February 9, 1921.

7 Ibid., February 10, 1921.

8 Ibid.

9 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert , p. 132.

10 In conversation with William Lee.

11 Pavlovich, March 18, 1921.

12 Ibid., May 2, 1921.

13 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 26.

14 I am grateful to Philip Norcross Gross for this information.

15 Charles Roux, Chanel , p. 176.

16 Haedrich, p. 26.

17 Pavlovich, May 4, 1921.

18 Ibid., May 5, 1921.

CHAPTER 18: The Lucky № 5

1 Vogue , October 1920.

2 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert , p. 201.

3 Ibid.

4 Ibid.

5 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel , p. 67.

6 Ibid., p. 69.

7 Ernest Beaux “Souvenir de parfums,” in Industrie de la parfumerie , vol. I, no. 7, October 1946.

8 Galante, p. 74.

9 Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).

10 Patrick Doucet painstakingly described the development of Chanel perfumes and helped me toward a chronology of № 5.

11 Chanel catalogue, Chanel Conservatoire.

12 Galante, p. 75.

13 Ibid.

14 Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).

CHAPTER 19: Entirely in White and Covered in Pearls

1 All references in this paragraph are from Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 104.

2 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau , p. 268.

3 Jean Cocteau, Le passé défini , February 6, 1956, p. 42.

4 John Richardson, A Life of Picasso , vol. III, p. 87.

5 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 105.

6 Marie Pavlovna, A Princess in Exile , p. 174.

7 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own , p. 118.

8 Harper’s Bazaar , March 1937.

9 Madsen, p. 118.

10 All preceding quotes in this section are from Marie Pavlovna.

11 Gaia Servadio, Luchino Visconti: A Biography , p. 31.

12 Steegmuller, p. 170.

13 Ibid., pp. 241–42.

14 Ibid., p. 301.

15 Ibid., p. 308.

16 Ibid., p. 276.

17 Ibid., p. 297.

18 Chanel to Etienne de Beaumont in the Institut Mémoire de l’édition Contemporaine, fonds E. Beaumont.

19 Chanel correspondence, Chanel Conservatoire.

2 °Chanel archive.

CHAPTER 20: Reverdy

1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 133.

2 Charles Roux, Chanel , p. 370.

3 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 138.

4 Jean Cocteau, Le passé défini , vol. 5, April 1956, p. 91.

5 Collection Chanel, by kind permission of the estate of Pierre Reverdy.

6 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau , p. 325.

7 Roux, p. 230.

CHAPTER 21: At the Center

1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 148.

2 Ibid., p. 118.

3 Ibid., p. 146.

4 Ibid., p. 147.

5 Ibid., pp. 145–48.

6 Carmel Snow, The World of Carmel Snow , p. 31.

7 Morand, Allure , pp. 122, 151.

8 Ibid., p. 123.

9 Whitney Chadwick and Tirza True Latimer, The Modern Woman Revisited , p. 89.

10 Ibid.

11 Ibid., p. 82.

12 Ibid., pp. 80–85.

13 Ibid.

14 Vogue , March 1, 1923.

15 Morand, Allure , p. 47.

16 Ibid., p. 155.

17 Ibid., p. 131.

18 Ibid., p. 133.

19 Arthur Rubinstein, My Many Years , p. 125.

20 Renée Mourgues, La République , October 13, 1994.

21 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel , p. 155.

22 Maurice Sachs, La Décade de l’illusion , p. 138.

CHAPTER 22: Bend’Or

1 Jean Cocteau, Lettres à sa mère , vol. V, May 24, 1957.

2 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 125.

3 George Ridley, Bend d’Or, Duke of Westminster , p. 141

4 Ibid.

5 Ibid., p. 134.

6 Winston and Clementine Churchill, Speaking for Themselves , p. 313.

7 Ibid., p. 306.

8 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , pp. 158–59.

9 Ibid., p. 160.

10 Ibid., p. 165.

11 Ibid.

12 The Wendy and Emery Reves Collection catalogue, Dallas Museum of Art.

13 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion , p. 49.

14 Morand, Allure , p. 169.

15 Ibid., p. 69.

16 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert , p. 271.