Lisa Chaney - Coco Chanel - An Intimate Life

17 Marcel Billot, Journal de l’Abbé Mugnier , August 6, 1928.

18 Axel Madsen: Chanel: A Woman of Her Own , p. 172.

19 Vogue , August 1930.

20 Loelia, Duchess of Westminster, Grace and Favor , p. 159.

21 Dorothy Ponsonby, diaries, February 20, 1930.

22 Morand, Allure , p. 162.

23 Ibid., pp. 165–67.

24 Ridley, p. 167.

25 Morand, Allure , p. 167.

CHAPTER 23: The Crash

1 Francis C. Rose, Saying Life: The Memoirs of Sir Francis Rose , p. 154.

2 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own , p. 186.

3 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 151.

4 Charles Roux, Chanel , p. 237.

5 Morand, Allure , pp. 149–50.

6 Judith Thurman, Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette , p. 377.

7 Charles Roux, p. 291.

8 Morand, Chroniques , 1931–1954, p. 314.

9 Gaia Servadio, Luchino Visconti: A Biography , p. 40.

10 Ibid., p. 42.

11 Madsen, p. 210.

12 Ibid.

13 Servadio, p. 52.

14 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit , p. 108.

15 Ibid., p. 137.

16 Morand, Allure , p. 112.

17 Ibid., p. 111.

CHAPTER 24: Schiap Had Lots of It but It Was Bad

1 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion , p. 61.

2 Ibid., p. 62.

3 Ibid., p. 140.

4 Dalí letters to Gabrielle Chanel, Dalí correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí.

5 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 170.

6 Ibid., p. 172.

7 I am most grateful to Jean-Noël Liaut for this and much other useful information.

8 Marcel Billot, Journal de l’Abbé Mugnier , February 22, 1929.

9 Jean Hugo, Carnets , February 17, 1967.

CHAPTER 25: War

1 Janet Flanner, Paris Was Yesterday , p. 222.

2 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel , p. 170.

3 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own , p. 226.

4 Charles Roux, Chanel , p. 373.

5 Flanner, p. 222.

6 Dalí letters to Gabrielle Chanel, Dalí correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí.

7 Madame Gabrielle Labrunie interview with the author.

8 Nicole Fenosa and Bertrand Tillier, Apelles Fenosa: Catalogue raisonné de l’œuvre sculpté .

9 Lilou Marquand interview with the author.

10 William Bullitt, pp. 481–86.

11 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 143.

12 Ibid., pp. 143–44.

CHAPTER 26: Survival

1 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel , p. 178.

2 Ibid.

3 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau , p. 438.

4 Ibid., p. 439.

5 Julian Jackson, France: The Dark Years , pp. 360–63.

6 Ibid., p. 4.

7 Ibid., p. 199.

8 Ibid., p. 308.

9 Charles Roux, Chanel , pp. 324–25.

1 °Comte Jean d’Harcourt telephone interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.

11 Archives of the Association Sainte Agnès, Saint-Martin-le-Vinoux, France.

12 Chanel Conservatoire interview, Mme Tassin.

13 Judith Thurman, Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette , p. 197.

14 Ibid., p. 437.

15 Ibid., p. 436.

16 Jean d’Harcourt interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.

17 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert , p. 290.

18 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit , p. 136.

19 Thurman, p. 445.

2 °Coleridge and Woolf quotes from John Kerrigan, The Sonnets and a Lover’s Complaint , p. 51.

21 Jean d’Harcourt interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.

22 Jean-Noël Liaut interview with the author, July 2009.

23 In Meredith Etherington-Smith’s Dalí biography, The Persistence of Memory , “the opium — smoking Cécile Goudreau is a thinly disguised portraitof Coco Chanel — Dalí gives the game away when he has her mention the Auvergne, Chanel’s birthplace,” p. 283.

24 Ibid., p. 89.

25 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel , p. 171.

CHAPTER 27: Von Dincklage

1 M. Flügge, Rettung ohne Retter, p. 109.

2 This information and much of what follows on von Dincklage is taken from M. Flügge, p. 109, and from two documents in the Swiss Federal Archives, which include letters from von Dincklage’s lawyer. At the time, 1950, von Dincklage was trying to reenter Switzerland.

3 Das Braune Netz ( The Brown Network ), p. 98.

4 Sybille Bedford, Quicksands , p. 90.

5 Archives Fédérales Suisses (Bundesarchiv): Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (1848–2009), File C.16-01373, February 2, 1950. According to this report, he was “ directeur des transports” in Sanary.

6 Ibid.

7 Das Braune Netz ( The Brown Network ), p. 94.

8 Flügge, p. 109.

9 Das Braune Netz ( The Brown Network ), p. 96.

10 Bedford, p. 311.

11 Das Braune Netz ( The Brown Network ), p. 94.

12 Ibid.

13 Bedford, p. 88.

14 Charles Coton interview, December 10, 1982, in Jacques Grandjonc and Theresia Grundtner, Zone d’ombres 1933–1944. Exil et internement d’Allemands et d’Autrichiens dans le Sud-Est de la France , p. 51.

15 Francine du Plessix Gray, Them , p. 170. The sections on von Dincklage in this brilliant and absorbing memoir proved critical in my unraveling of that secretly repugnant man’s chronology.

16 André Simone (pseudonym of Otto Katz), Men of Europe , pp. 16–17.

17 Das Braune Netz ( The Brown Network ), p. 95.

18 Ibid.

19 Ibid., pp. 96–102.

20 Von Dincklage’s lawyer’s statement and the Swiss Archive files cited above in note 2.

21 Bedford, p. 312. Here Bedford describes von Dincklage as “made for the job [of spy], an effective charmer, a ruthless social butterfly with a heart of steel, ignorant of ideals, other humans’ pains.”

22 Plessix Gray, p. 169.

23 Ibid., p. 171.

24 Ibid., p. 169.

25 Samuel Marx, Queen of the Ritz , p. 106.

26 Ibid.

27 Plessix Gray, p. 170.

28 Ibid.

29 Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (E4320B#1990/266#1551*, file C.16-01373 P); November 13, 1950, from the chief of police, Geneva, Switzerland, to his counterpart in Berne, Switzerland. The French intelligence report adds that von Dincklage “gave the impression he was trying to make deals with Germany and France… [he] visits one Leonardo Dickens (suspected of being head of Gestapo in Lugano).”

30 The police reports confirm von Dincklage’s position.

31 Plessix Gray, p. 218.

32 Dodie Kazanjian and Calvin Tomkins, Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman , p. 98. (Charles Roux, Chanel , version of this episode is on pp. 315–17.)

33 Marx, p. 179.

34 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own , p. 242.

35 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.

36 Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (E4320B#1990/266#1551*, file C.16-01373 P); November 13, 1950, from the chief of police, Geneva, Switzerland, to his counterpart in Berne, Switzerland.

37 Marx, p. 174.

38 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.

39 Denis Demonpion, Arletty , p. 225.

40 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.

41 Ibid.

42 Ibid.

43 Charles Roux, p. 344.

44 Ibid., p. 334.

45 Letters between Churchill’s office, the Foreign Office, Vera Bate and Chanel (CHAR 1/ 272/, CHAR20/198 A, etc.) in the Churchill Archives Center, Cambridge.