Isabella Beeton - Beeton's Book of Needlework

Work first 8 ovals, each composed of 5 double stitches, 3 purl divided one from the other by 4 double stitches, 5 double stitches; these ovals are joined together by the purl at the sides, then the circle is tightened as much as possible, and the cotton with which you are working is twisted round the ends of cotton that have been cut: the cotton is then fastened off nearly underneath.

Begin a fresh small oval, composed of 12 double stitches, which should be fastened to the preceding oval after 3 double stitches (to the purl in the centre of the first oval), then fasten it again to the purl which joins together the first and the second oval; leave a space of about one-fourth of an inch, and work an oval composed of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, followed each by 2 double stitches, 4 double stitches. A very little farther off make a very small oval, composed of 8 double stitches, which after the four first double stitches is joined to the centre purl of the second oval, leaving the same space between as before, make another oval of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, each followed by 2 double stitches, 4 double stitches; but the first purl is missed , because at this place the oval is joined to the fifth purl of the corresponding oval; once more leave a space of one-fourth of an inch, and repeat. At the end of the round the two ends of cotton are tied tightly together.

13.– Tatted Border with Beads .

Materials: Black purse silk, or, for white trimming, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 2; tatting-pin No. 3; 3 hanks of beads No. 4 to the yard of border.

This border, edged with beads No. 4, is worked in middling-size purse silk over fine silk cord of the same colour as the silk. Before beginning to work this pattern, thread the beads which take the place of purl stitches, and which are slipped in between two double stitches. When the row of stitches is of the length required, form the trefoil leaves, and sew a few beads over the places where they are joined. These trefoil leaves are made separately, and then sewn together.

14.– Insertion in Tatting .

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion No. 18 or 20.

1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double, draw up. Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.

2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up. Repeat till the length required is worked, then cut off.

For the fresh length, which will make the other half of the insertion, the shuttle must still be attached to the reel. Commence by working–

1st oval: 10 double, join to the purl which connects the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up.

Double thread: 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.

2nd oval: 10 double, join to the same purl as last–namely, the one connecting the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. Repeat, joining the two next ovals to the purl which connects the two next in the piece already worked, and so on.

Crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the purl of double thread, repeat. With a heading on one side only, this makes a pretty wide edging.

15.– Border in Tatting and Crochet .

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, and crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3.

This lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops and treble stitch round the edge. Begin with the tatting as follows: Make a circle of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8 double. This circle is repeated at a distance of about three-fourths of an inch, only instead of the 1st purl each following circle must be fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle. Then take some crochet cotton, which must be finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of double stitches over the thread which joins the circles. The number of stitches depends on the length and size of the cotton; work double stitches round the circles at the place where both ends meet. The outer row consists of treble stitches, which are worked with 1 chain stitch between, missing 1 stitch under each chain. The scallops consist of the two following rows:–1 double, with which the last and first purl of 2 circles are joined, 4 chain; in each of the other purl, 1 double, 4 chain, between 2 double stitches.

2nd row: 1 double in each chain stitch scallop, 1 double, 3 long double, 1 double.

16 and 17.– Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting .

This veil is slightly gathered in front and fastened to the brim of the bonnet. It is tied at the back under the chignon. The veil is of black silk net. The flowrets are tatted with black purse silk, and worked in appliqué over the tulle. The veil is edged round with a tatted lace made with the same silk. For the patterns and lace and instructions, see Nos. 18 and 19. No. 16 shows the way in which the veil is worn upon the bonnet, and No. 17 shows its shape when stretched out.

18 and 19.– Patterns in Tatting .

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 120 for a white veil; fine black silk for a black veil; tatting-pin No. 2.

The patterns Nos. 18 and 19 are meant for ornamenting the veil No. 16. They are sewn upon the net at regular distances.

For working the pattern No. 18, make with black silk or white cotton 6 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, at the end 1 purl, then join the stitch into a circle, *fasten the silk on to the next purl. Then 1 spot or Josephine knot, consisting of 6 plain stitches, carry the shuttle downwards through the loop, and draw the stitches close together; repeat 3 times more from *. Fasten the silk on to the next purl, and work a circle as follows:–8 times 2 double, divided by 1 purl; fasten the silk on to the next purl, work again 1 spot, after which the silk is fastened, then work 2 more similar circles divided by 1 spot; they are fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle instead of the 1st purl. Fasten off the silk after the last circle.

For No. 19 work 25 double, divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a circle, knot the beginning and the end of the cotton together, cut off the ends at a short distance. Then work a smaller circle, consisting of 8 double, divided by 1 purl; at the place of the 1st purl fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 2nd purl of the large circle. The ends of this circle are knotted together and cut off in the same way. Then work a circle consisting of 11 double, fasten the silk on to the 20th purl of the large circle, work 5 double, and join the stitches into a circle. Then take the ends of the 3 circles, and work close fine stitches with silk round them, so as to form the stem. The completed pattern is sewn upon the net.

20 and 21.– Diamond Pattern and Circle in Tatting, for Trimming Linen Collars, Cuffs, &c. .

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No 30; tatting-pin No. 3.

20.–DIAMOND PATTERN.–

Work, not far one from the other, four leaves, each composed of 5 double stitches, 7 rather long purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 5 double stitches. Instead of making the 1st purl in each of the 3 next leaves, fasten the cotton to the last leaf of preceding leaf. Fasten off and cut the cotton; begin a fresh circle by 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the four leaves, and work a very small circle thus:–2 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the first circle, 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 2 double stitches; fasten the cotton * to the 6th purl of the leaf; work a larger circle thus:–2 double stitches fastened to the purl of the small circle, 2 double stitches, 4 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the second purl of the second leaf; work another small circle similar to that above-described; fasten the cotton to the third purl of the second leaf, then to the fourth purl of the same leaf, and repeat from * three times more, always fastening the first purl of the first circle you are working (each time you repeat the pattern) to the purl of the last small circle last worked; fasten off and cut the cotton.