Simon Foster - CHINA's Three Gorges & Xi'an

Shopping Streets & Malls

Traffic in Xi'an

A short stroll down frenetic Dong Dajieon a summer's evening is all you need to convince you that consumerism has arrived in China – everyone under 30 seems to be out picking out the latest bargains from the plethora of clothing and sports outlets. One of the first and still the best mall in Xi'an is the Century Ginwa Plaza(daily 9:30 am-9 pm) beneath the public square between the Bell and Drum Towers. Access is next to Starbucks on the northwestern corner of the Bell Tower intersection. Inside you'll find clothing stores, sportswear, electronics and a supermarket, but be warned that imported items cost as much, if not more, than at home. There's also a Kenny Rogers Roasters and a DeliFrance there in case you get hungry. For designer labels, the Zhongda International Shopping Centeron the western side of Nan Dajie has the likes of Luis Vuitton and Prada, and the Chang'an International Centerincludes a Gucci store.

Everyday Needs

The supermarket in the Century Ginwa Plaza(see above) should provide for most of your everyday needs, but for a cheaper supermarket try Nan Dajie. For toiletries there are plenty of Watson'soutlets, including one next to the Han Tang Hostel on Xi Dajie.

Adventures

Xi'an is so overloaded with sights that you may find little time for anything beyond a bike ride or walk around the city walls, but you could also try your hand at dumpling making, or join in with some tai chi or kiteflyingaround the central plaza above the Century Ginwa shopping mall.

On Foot

Around the City Walls

You can walk around the flat city walls in about three hours, but it can get very hot in Xi'an, so many people prefer to do just a section of the walk. Don't worry about getting stranded. If you get tired you can either descend when you come to the next gate and take a taxi to your hotel, or hop on one of the electric buggies that circuit the wall. Late afternoon is a good time to start the walk as the heat of the day starts to fade and the walls are bathed in the warm glow of the setting sun–you may see local musicians performing below you as you make your way round

On Wheels

Around the City Walls

Cycling makes for a speedier way of seeing the wall than walking and the whole circuit can be completed in around an hour. You can rent bikes from the South Gate of the wall – rental costs $20 (plus a $200 deposit) for 100 minutes or $40 for a tandem.

Cultural Adventures

The Art of Making the Perfect Dumpling

Xi'an has a long culinary history and is particularly famous for its dumplings. There are countless excellent dumpling restaurants around town (see Where to Eat ), but to learn how to make them head to the Shuyuan Hostel(see Where to Stay ), which has dumpling making sessions at 7-9:30 pm every Friday. You'll be shown how to do it before trying your own, which will likely look OK until they get to the pan when they'll probably fall apart. If it's any consolation, years of training are required to become a qualified dumpling chef and, while yours may not look great, they should still taste good, as long as you can find all of the pieces!

Where to Stay

Xi'an has embraced its modern tourist status with open arms and there are plenty of good places to stay, including an ever-increasing number of hostels, although options at the top end are mostly found outside the city walls.

Bell and Drum, 1 She Hui Lu (tel.029-029-8727-5018; BDTHTL@gmail.com). This is a good mid-range choice, located right in the heart of the city between the Bell and Drum towers. Rooms are comfortable and quiet. Staff are friendly and helpful. $$$

Bell Tower, 110 Nan Dajie (tel.029-8760-0000). The Bell Tower's excellent location and comfortable (but small) rooms make it popular with tour groups. @ $$$

Hyatt Regency, 158 Dong Dajie (tel.029-8769-1234, www.xian.regency.hyatt.com). From the outside the Hyatt (shown above) looks its age but, inside, the lobby is elegantly modern, as are the rooms, some of which have opaque Japanese paper screens in front of the windows to hide the poor views. Discounts of up to 50% are common. FC/@/DA $$$$$

Han Tang Hostel, Xi Dajie (tel.029-8728-7772, www.hostelxian.com; buses #201, #205 & #611 from the train station). It's less atmospheric than the Shuyuan (see below), but the Han Tang's better facilities, good location and clean, bright and quiet rooms make it a popular place with budget travelers, although mosquitoes can be a problem. You'll find the usual array of hostel offerings, including laundry, Internet café, and travel and tour booking facilities, as well as the opportunity to learn how to make dumplings (see Adventures , above) and a small, but pleasant roof terrace. Dorms are $50. $$

May First, 351 Dong Dajie (tel.029-8768-1098, www.may-first.com). Located on the busy shopping street of Dong Dajie, May First is reached by walking through the restaurant of the same name (see below). It has a presentable selection of rooms, although the cheapest ones don't have windows. $$

Qixian Hostel, 1 Beixin Jie (tel.029-8744-4087; gaoming55514@yahoo.com.cn; bus #610 from the train station). Of the many hostels that have sprung up around the city, Qixian is by far the most atmospheric, although it's a little farther from the center than some of the others. The hostel is housed in a historic building next to the Eighth Army Museum and the simple rooms and dorms are set around courtyards linked by moon gates. Dorm beds are $25 or $50 with a bathroom inside the room. There's also a cozy café with Internet access and tables in the courtyard outside. $

Shuyuan Hostel, 50 feet west of the South Gate (tel.029-8728-7720; shuyuanhostel@yahoo.com.cn; bus #608 from the train station). Housed in an attractive building just inside the city wall by the South Gate, Shuyuan's recently renovated rooms are clean, simple, feature modern bathrooms, and are set around a couple of courtyards. There's also an Internet café/bar that hosts dumpling-making sessions and serves the usual blend of basic Chinese dishes and Western traveler fare at modest prices. The small, basic dorms are $50/$30 for a/c or non a/c respectively. If you take a room go for one on the upper level; they are brighter. $$

Sofitel, 319 Dongxin Jie (tel.029-8792-8888, www.sofitel.com). The recently opened collection of Accor hotels in Renmin Square are the city's most prestigious and the Sofitel, above, is the best of the group. The hotel is divided into east and west wings, both of which have spacious rooms styled in a comfortable and hip fashion, although the service isn't qyite up to scratch as yet. The Grand Mercure($$$$$), Mercure($$$$), which both have use of the Sofitel's fitness center and pool, and the budget People's Hotel($$$) are all here and can be booked through the same telephone number. But given the Sofitel's frequent discounts it's worth paying a little more to stay there. The complex also holds has one of the most exclusive restaurants in Xi'an, Le Chinois(see below). The only downside to the hotels is their location, which is a little far from the center. FC/SW/@