Simon Foster - CHINA's Three Gorges & Xi'an

Pits Two & Three

Pit Two was discovered in 1976 and opened to the public in 1994. Although only a small portion of the pit has been excavated, the warriors unearthed here display a much greater variety of postures than in Pit One and there are four particularly fine examples housed in glass cabinets – an archer, a cavalryman, an officer and an overbearing general who is six feet six inches tall! Pit Three is the smallest of the sites and only holds 68 warriors, but their elaborate clothing is thought to indicate higher rank – it seems as if this was the command center for the terracotta army!

Other Points of Interest

There's a small museum here which is definitely worth a visit, principally for the two ornate bronze chariots found near Qin Shi Huang's tomb. The fine workmanship of both chariots is replete with symbolism and the design incorporates elements which represent the belief that the earth was square and heaven was round. To the left of Pit One there's a movie theater that screens a show detailing the history of the warriors and their creation – ask when the next English performance will be. In the hall outside the theater there's a gift shop where you might see one of the farmers who first found the warriors busily autographing books.

Pandas

(Open 8 am-5 pm; $20). Two hours southwest of Xi'an, the Panda Reserve at Zhouzhi in the Qingling Mountains is a good place to see the animals, along with golden monkeys, red pandas, black bears and leopards. There are currently eight pandas at the site, including one baby. Hostels run tours that cost $160 as long as you have a minimum of five people, or you can hire a taxi for the round-trip, which should cost $400-500. Try to get to the reserve for the 10:30 am or 4 pm feeding times when you'll see the pandas tucking into apples and milk along with the bamboo. For more about pandas and the other animals listed, see Fauna . If you're interested in getting more involved with promoting panda conservation, i-to-iorganizes volunteer programs at the center (which you must pay for) – check out www.i-to-i.com.

Huashan

(Open 8:30 am-6 pm; $100; tourist bus #6). Seventy-five miles east of Xi'an, Huashan is the westernmost of China's five holy Taoist mountains and is well worth a trip. The mist-shrouded mountain has long been a Taoist hermits' retreat and there are several temples and a cave dedicated to Laozi (see Taoism ), the religion's semi-mythical founder. Huashan is a couple of hours drive from Xi'an, which makes staying overnight preferable if you wish to climb, rather than take the cable car (daily 9 am-4 pm; $60 one-way or $110 round-trip), up the mountain.

Practicalities

Hostels run day-trips to the mountain for $280, which includes transport, entrance fees, cable car and meals, but these tend to be rushed and it's better to hire your own taxi ($700 round-trip including waiting) and leave early, or take the bus and stay overnight. Buses leave from Dongguangchang station and take two hours to get to the mountain. There are plenty of hotelson Yuquan Jie in town, some of which have dorms, and there are also places to stay on the mountain itself. Many of these are basic affairs where you'll need a sleeping bag, but there are better options on the North Peak and the East Peak.

Making the Climb

The mountain is notoriously steep and there are some precipitous drops but, if you choose to climb rather than take the cable car to the 5,295-foot North Peak, your efforts will be rewarded with fine views (weather permitting), a tremendous sense of achievement and aching legs. The nine-mile climb takes around four hours and starts easily enough, but the route becomes increasingly steep and narrow as you ascend. Once at North Peak you can travel on to the highest point of the mountain, South Peak,at 7085 feet. You can continue on around the remainder of the mountain's five peaks, although it takes a good six to eight hours to complete the circuit, so you might want to stay on the mountain (see Practicalities , above).

Galleries, Shows & Theaters

Xi'an's cultural scene is more limited than the big cities but there are a few performances (designed for tourists) worth checking out. The 5 pm " Dream Back to the Great Tang Dynasty” (tel.029-8551-1888; $150) at Tang Paradise is the most elaborate, while the 8:30 pm Tang Dynasty Showat 75 Chang'an Lu ($410 with dinner, $200 without; tel.029-8782-2222) lasts an hour and is accompanied by a classical Chinese orchestra.

Afternoon Delight:

In the late afternoon and early evening it's worth looking out for locals giving performances of opera around the city walls, often accompanied by drums and wind and

string instruments.

For Families

Xi'an is a city brimming with historical sights but these might not always appeal to the entire family. The Ming city wallsmake a good compromise which combines a bit of history with some cycling or walking, and Tang Paradiseis another fun option. In the north of the city, Revolution Parkcan offer some playtime, and in the evenings the central plazais full of families flying kites (you can buy them there). Another trip that should appeal to the kids is out Zhouzhito see the pandas and other wildlife.

Health & Relaxation

There are massage parlors all over the city – the Han Tang Hosteloffers Tibetan and tuina massage(see Traditional Chinese Medicine ). For more of a health cleanse you could try Le Spa(tel.029-8792-8888; daily 10 am-4 am) in the east wing of the Sofitel, which offers massage and spa treatments, but be warned they don't come cheap. If you want to soak away your stress you could head out to Huaqing Hot Springsand bathe in the mineral springs, but don't go expecting luxury.

Shopping

Xi'an is a great place for shopping, new or old. While ever more new shopping malls spring up, markets provide for those who want to sightsee as they shop.

Markets

The Muslim markets, as they are known, run north along Beiyuanmen from the Drum Tower and along parallel Huajie Xiang, which leads to the Great Mosque. They incorporate everything from foods (see Where to Eat ) to souvenirs. This is a great place to pick up all the China souvenirs you want – from singing Mao lighters to kids' toys, as well as "antique” items, although it can be difficult to determine authenticity. You'll also see replica terracotta warriors here but, while they're cheap, the quality is suspect (see Soldier Shopping ).

The Muslim Markets

Xi'an has a long artistic history and this is evident in the string of shops and stalls that run east along Shuyuanmenfrom the South Gate. Here you'll find lots of calligraphy, scroll paintings and art equipment, including enormous paint-brushes; the market is a great place for a wander even if you're not going to buy, and, since it's on the way to the Beilin Stone Tablets Museum you can combine the two in a trip.

Likewise if you're going to visit the Eight Immortals Temple, it's worth heading there on a Wednesday or Sunday to take in the antiques marketat its entrance. You'll find all manner of goods, from genuine antiques to real bric-a-brac and the vendors themselves are often as interesting as the objects for sale. It's always difficult to ascertain authenticity, but there are still some great souvenirs. Qing dynasty opium pipes, busts of Chairman Mao, Taoist alchemy treatises, rusty old weapons, statues of Buddha and antique coins all sit incongruously next to one another.