William Vollmann - Kissing the Mask - Beauty, Understatement and Femininity in Japanese Noh Theater, with Some Thoughts on Muses (Especially Helga Testorf), Transgender Women, ... Geishas, Valkyries and Venus Figurines

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From the National Book Award-winning author of
comes a charming, evocative and piercing examination of an ancient Japanese tradition and the keys it holds to our modern understanding of beauty….
What is a woman? To what extent is femininity a performance? Writing with the extraordinary awareness and endless curiosity that have defined his entire oeuvre, William T. Vollmann takes an in-depth look into the Japanese craft of Noh theater, using the medium as a prism to reveal the conception of beauty itself.
Sweeping readers from the dressing room of one of Japan's most famous Noh actors to a transvestite bar in the red-light district of Kabukicho,
explores the enigma surrounding Noh theater and the traditions that have made it intrinsic to Japanese culture for centuries. Vollmann then widens his scope to encompass such modern artists of attraction and loss as Mishima, Kawabata and even Andrew Wyeth. From old Norse poetry to Greek cult statues, from Japan's most elite geisha dancers to American makeup artists, from Serbia to India, Vollmann works to extract the secrets of staged femininity and the mystery of perceived and expressed beauty, including explorations of gender at a transgendered community in Los Angeles and with Kabuki female impersonators.
Kissing the Mask

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206: Mishima’s resolution to cultivate his body — Sun and Steel , pp. 7–8.

206: Procedures of Molly Sims — InStyle, January 2008, pp. 109 (“Your Most Stylish Year Ever: 365 Star Style Secrets,” no. 23), 119 (no. 233).

206: Mr. Shozo Sato’s abstention from water before performing — Information by him, given at a Kabuki costuming and makeup demonstration at the Asian Art Museum, San Francisco, 23 February 2008. This form of preparation is also common among Noh actors. Regarding a ko-omote carved by Yamato, the actor Katayama Kurouemon reports: “I once performed Kenreimonin in “Oharagoko” with this mask. Since the colors are very delicate and I wore a flower hat on my head, I didn’t drink any water from the day before so that I would not sweat” (Hori, Masuda and Miyano, trans. for WTV by Yasuda Nobuko and slightly rev. by WTV; p. 36).

206: The Goodbye Cellulite, Hello Bikini Challenge — Marie Claire , vol. 15, no. 4 (April 2008), p. 59 (Nivea advertisement: “Ready for the Challenge?”).

206: “We’ve all been there…” — Allure , January 2008, p. 32 (advertisement for CoverGirl TruBlend).

206: Vaginal rejuvenation + balancing ethnic features — New Beauty , winter-spring 2008, p. 172 (“Vaginal Rejuvenation & Aesthetic Surgery”); p. 149 (“Balancing Your Ethnic Features”) + p. 141 (“The Details About Rhinoplasty”).

207: Reoperation rates for breast augmentation and reconstruction — Allure , January 2008, p. 54 (safety addendum to ad for the Natrelle Breast Enhancement Collection).

207: Description of the buttocks lift — New Beauty , winter-spring 2008, p. 111 (“Remove Excess Skin”).

207: Danger of Brazilian hair-straightening treatments — Allure , January 2008, p. 44 (“Letters from the Editor: January ’08: Vanity Cases”).

208: Details of vaginal graft and dilator — Ames, p. 239 (Aleshia Brevard).

208: “Literally melts away fat…” — New Beauty , winter-spring 2008, p. 87 (advertisement for “Smartlipo Laser Body Sculpting”).

208: “It’s no fun being a geisha…” — Goossen, p. 48 (Nagai Kafu, “The Peony Garden”).

208: “Ultimately, ours is a journey of anguish.” — Ames, p. 236 (Aleshia Brevard).

208: Noh lessons of Mr. Mikata Shizuka — Observed in his studio in Kyoto, 2004.

209: Dilation of neovagina with plastic stents — Rose, pp. 150–51.

209: Definition of muga — De Mente, pp. 47–49.

209: Remarks on Agnes — Stryker and Whittle, pp. 83, 82 (Harold Garfinkel, “Passing and the Managed Achievement of Sex Status in an ‘Intersexed’ Person”).

211: Iwasaki Mineko’s punishment and self-discipline — Op. cit., pp. 224, 231.

211: “More of a painted doll than a woman…” — Peabody Museum, p. 25 (Lesley Downs, “A World Behind Closed Doors”).

211: “The truth and what looks like it are two different things.” — Zeami, p. 146 (“Shugyoku tokka”).

211: The tale of Charlotte von Mahlsdorf — Op. cit., pp. 46, 44, 92, 102.

15: SUZUKA’S DRESSING ROOM

212: Remarks of Suzuka — From an interview in Kanazawa, January 2008; translated by Kawai Takako.

215: Morris on ideal waist-to-hip ratio — Op. cit., pp. 160–61.

215: Footnote on average female hip width — Morris, p. 169.

215: “The tightly laced young woman…” — Ibid., p. 164.

215: “Compactness and stability…” — Clark, pp. 85–86.

216: Maikos and the wooden pillow — Information from Masami-san, same ochaya, same month and year.

16: “THEY JUST WANT TO LOOK IN THE MIRROR”

222: Makeover — Interview with Yukiko, January 2008.

225: Desmond Morris on long hair and puffed-out lips — Op. cit., pp. 18, 79.

226: Sei Shonagon’s list of things that have lost their power — Op. cit., p. 145.

228: Footnote: Morris on blonde hair — Op. cit., p. 18.

228: The Vimalakirti Sutra — De Bary et al., pp. 60–61.

17: “I SIT WITH MY LEGS CLOSED”

230: Breasts created with padded apron; paragraph on elongated kimono sleeves & c; immediately following paragraph on types of feminine movement — Information by Mr. Sato Shozo, Kabuki costuming and makeup demonstration at the Asian Art Museum, San Francisco, 23 February 2008.

231: Remarks of Mr. Ichikawa Shunen — From an interview in Tokyo, January 2008; translated by Kawai Takako.

231: Footnote: Mishima on onnagatas — Five Modern No Plays , pp. 298, 297, 293.

234: “Grasp the logic of the fact that the eyes cannot see themselves…” — Zeami (Rimer and Yamazaki), p. 80 (“Kakyo”).

236: Visible and interior effects of waist constriction — Kunzle, pp. 15, 30–31.

18: “THERE’S NO UGLY LADY FACE”

239: “A double of the super ego” — Bellmer, p. 66. In the same work (pp. 28–29), he decribes a paralytic in love with a young girl: “Gradually her physical reality superimposed itself over his own… internally at prenatal depths he became the woman he was preparing to possess… he transformed into his opposite,” namely a woman.

239: “Never created or annihilated by themselves…” — De Bary et al., p. 138 (Huisi, “The Method of Calming and Contemplation in the Mahayana” [sixth cent.]).

19: THE PHALLUS OF TIRESIAS

244: “Entertainment enacted by a loosely defined occupation…” — Rath, p. 10.

244: The ancient Hungarian figurine — Depicted in Gimbutas, p. 231.

245: “By this unnatural differentiation…” — Zweig, p. 73. See also pp. 71–72.

246: Tomimoto Toyohina and her two colleagues — Utamaro book, trans. Yasuda Nobuko. Picture 7: Toji-sanbijin; Tomimoto Toyohina, Naniwaya Kita and Takashima Hisa; around Kansei 5 (1793). Large Nishikie. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

247: “… with a view to maintaining women in the conventional, subordinate role…” — Millot, p. 14.

247: Tips on feminine-style self-touching, on walking and on sitting — Danae Doyle Productions, “Feminine Movement Basics Vol. 1,” DDP & Feminage, 2007.

247: “A woman’s nature is such…” — De Bary et al., p. 404.

248: Description of Amelia — Maxwell, p. 60 ( Bright Center of Heaven , 1934).

248: Reshaping procedure for lip line — Aucoin, p. 45.

248: As depressing as an out-of-season red plum-blossom dress — Shonagon, p. 40.

249: “Now all at once he realized what the repulsive aura was…” — Böll, p. 199 ( Der Zug war pünktlich , 1951).

249: Tale of the transvestite at Caesar’s house — Cicero, vol. II (vol. XXII in the works), p. 35 (I.13, Cicero to Atticus, Rome, Jan. 25, B.C. 61).

249: Poem of love separation from the year 1232 — Brower and Miner, p. 271 (“Next Morning Love,” by Teika, slightly “retranslated” by WTV).

250: Description of Vanesa Lorena Ledesma — Amnesty International, p. 58. This case occurred in Argentina in 2000.

250: “If we eliminate the pressure to pass…” — Mattilda, p. 19 (“Reaching Too Far: An Introduction”).

250: The collection of mid-twentieth-century snapshots — In Hurst and Swope.

250: “One might say that the grace of them is not derived from avoiding strain…” — Denby.

250: Bone, flesh and skin — Zeami (Rimer and Yamazaki), pp. 69–70 (“Shikado”).

250: “Let there be brought to me twenty women…” — Simpson, p. 17 (“Third Tale: The Marvel Which Happened in the Reign of King Snefru”).

250: “All I am able to do is teach you the form…” — Iwasaki and Brown, p. 297.

250: “A fan must be carried…” — Ito and Inoue, p. 99.

250: “This is a higher-level mask with strength…” — Hori, Masuda and Miyano, trans. for WTV by Yasuda Nobuko and slightly rev. by WTV; p. 54.

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