Simon Rogan - Rogan

COPYRIGHT

HarperCollins Publishers

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First published by HarperCollins Publishers 2018

FIRST EDITION

Text © Simon Rogan, 2018

Photographs © Cristian Barnett, 2018

apart from here© nnattalli/Shutterstock.com

Photographs here, here, hereand here, reproduced courtesy of the Flying Fish Company

Cover design by James Empringham © HarperCollins Publishers Ltd 2018

Jacket image © Valentina Razumova/Shutterstock.com

Food Stylist: Nicole Herft

Prop Stylist: Lydia Brun

A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library

Simon Rogan asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work

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Source ISBN: 978-0-00-823272-6

Ebook Edition © September 2018 ISBN: 9780008232733

Version 2018-11-05

CONTENTS

COVER

TITLE PAGE

COPYRIGHT

INTRODUCTION

HERBS

AYNESOME VEGETABLE INFUSION

GRILLED COURGETTES AND QUAILS’ EGGS WITH MARJORAM BUTTER

HERITAGE POTATOES WITH LOVAGE AND ONION ASH

BABY POTATOES WITH OX-EYE DAISY SPREAD AND CULTURED CREAM

DOCK PUDDING WITH RAMSON EMULSION

HALF-DRIED TOMATOES WITH ROSEHIP, MINT AND BONE MARROW CRUMB

KALIBOS CABBAGE WITH MUSSELS AND PARSNIP SAUCE

DUNCAN CABBAGE WITH OYSTERS, PUFFED PORK AND HYSSOP SAUCE

TORCHED MACKEREL WITH CHICORY MARMALADE AND TOASTED BARLEY SAUCE

SALT COD MOUSSE, BLACK RADISH AND RAMSON SAUCE

ACCORD RADISH, CURED ARCTIC CHAR AND LEMON THYME

SWEET CICELY

SWEET CICELY AND RHUBARB PICKLED HERRING

LEEK AND LANGOUSTINES WITH SWEET CICELY AND FENNEL SAUCE

SWEET CICELY CAKE

STRAWBERRIES WITH SWEET CICELY SYRUP AND SHEEP’S YOGHURT

SWEET CICELY ICE CREAM

SWEET CICELY POT WITH LEMON VERBENA AND BLUEBERRIES

VEGETABLES

RADISH STEW

SALT-BAKED TURNIP WITH EGG YOLK AND PORK LARDO

PICKLED RED PEPPERS AND FENNEL WITH SMOKED TOMATO STOCK

THREE WAYS WITH KUZU DUMPLINGS

CHEDDAR CHEESE DUMPLINGS WITH BEETROOT BROTH

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE DUMPLINGS WITH TOASTED SUNFLOWER SEED BROTH

ANISE HYSSOP DUMPLINGS WITH CHESTNUT AND BACON BROTH

BROAD BEANS WITH BABY ONIONS AND PANCETTA

GRILLED SALAD SMOKED OVER EMBERS

BEETROOT TAPIOCA CRISP

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES AND GOAT’S CHEESE MOUSSE WITH TRUFFLE

ROASTED CARROTS WITH HAM FAT

AYNSOME OFFERINGS

CELERIAC AND MUSTARD-GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS WITH CELERIAC AND APPLE SALAD

THREE WAYS WITH BLACK GARLIC

BLACK GARLIC BASE

BLACK GARLIC YOGHURT

BLACK GARLIC BUTTER

SUMMER PURPLE BROCCOLI AND SWEETBREADS WITH RAMSON CAPERS

CONFIT SARDINES WITH GRILLED COS LETTUCE SAUCE

ASPARAGUS WITH BROWN SHRIMP BUTTER SAUCE

POTATOES AND CRAB WITH CHICKEN SKIN AND HORSERADISH

CHESTNUT PASTA WITH TRUFFLE SAUCE AND CHANTERELLES

KOHLRABI

SALT-BAKED KOHLRABI WITH SMOKED EGG YOLK

VEAL AND POACHED OYSTER KOHLRABI PARCELS

BUTTER-ROASTED KOHLRABI AND KALE ROLLS

KOHLRABI GRATIN

RABBIT TERRINE WITH PICKLED KOHLRABI

BUTTERMILK FRIED OYSTERS WITH FERMENTED KOHLRABI AND FENNEL

THREE WAYS WITH KOMBUCHA

ROSEHIP AND HIBISCUS KOMBUCHA

RED CABBAGE KOMBUCHA

PUMPKIN KOMBUCHA

MEAT

CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS AND CREAMED KALE

POULTRY OFFAL DUMPLINGS

CUMBERLAND CREAMED CHICKEN LIVERS

GROUSE FAGGOTS WITH ELDERBERRY SAUCE

DUCK BREAST WITH CHERRIES AND SMOKED BEETROOT

GUINEA FOWL AND OFFAL RAGOUT WITH BROAD BEANS AND ELDERFLOWER

PORK JOWL WITH WOOD-FIRED ONIONS AND SMOKED EEL

PORK AND EEL CROQUETTES WITH FERMENTED SWEETCORN SAUCE

SUCKLING PIG WITH MEAD SAUCE

ROAST VENISON WITH GRILLED GEM LETTUCE AND ELDERBERRY CAPER SAUCE

SWEETBREADS WITH SWEETCORN PURÉE

HERDWICK LAMB

SPRING LAMB BELLY FRITTERS WITH RAMSON EMULSION

LAMB BRESAOLA

SMOKED LAMB SHOULDER

BAKED LAMB LOIN WITH SPINACH, CURDS AND WHEY

HAY-BAKED MUTTON WITH POTATO TERRINE AND BRAISED ENDIVES

LAMB CHOPS WITH AUBERGINE, NASTURTIUM CAPERS AND NETTLE BUTTER

SLOW-COOKED BEEF BRISKET WITH MUSHROOMS

BEEF BROTH WITH SLOW-BAKED SWEDE

SHORTHORN BEEF FILLET WITH HORSERADISH AND MARROW FAT SAUCE

FISH

CRAB, SQUID AND MALLOW SOUP

HUMPHREY’S POOL

SMOKED COD ROE WITH FENNEL BISCUITS AND PARSLEY SNOW

SQUID INK GRISSINI

OYSTER PEBBLE

PRAWNS WITH WHITE SAUSAGE

PORK CRACKER WITH PRAWNS AND TARRAGON EMULSION

CUBES FROM LAND AND SEA WITH EUCALYPTUS HOLLANDAISE

PAN-FRIED SEA BASS WITH ROASTED FISH BONE SAUCE

ROAST COD WITH KELP BUTTER SAUCE

BUTTER-POACHED BRILL AND ASPARAGUS WITH WATERCRESS SAUCE

HALIBUT AND ARTICHOKES IN MUSHROOM BROTH AND PINE OIL

FIVE-SPICED MONKFISH WITH GOLDEN RASPBERRY

CHICK O HAKE WITH CHERVIL ROOT PURÉE

TROUT AND TROMBONCINO COURGETTES WITH SAVOURY SAUCE

MARINATED TURBOT AND MUSSELS WITH MISO PICKLE

SOLE FILLETS WITH SMOKED MARROWBONE AND RAZOR CLAM SAUCE

SCALLOPS

SMOKED SCALLOP WITH PEA MOUSSE

GRILLED SCALLOPS WITH CAULIFLOWER AND STRAWBERRY VINEGAR

RAW SCALLOPS WITH VINEGAR GEL, SCALLOP BOUILLON AND GOOSEBERRY TART WITH SCALLOP ROE

RAW SCALLOPS WITH VINEGAR GEL

SCALLOP BOUILLON

GOOSEBERRY TART WITH SCALLOP ROE

SCALLOP MOUSSE WITH SMOKED ROE BUTTER SAUCE

DAIRY

CHICKPEA WAFER WITH GOAT’S CURD

LEEKS COOKED IN WHEY WITH BURNT CHIVE OIL

TUNWORTH CHEESE

TUNWORTH CROQUETTES

TUNWORTH POTATO PURÉE WITH DUCK HEARTS

WHOLE BAKED TUNWORTH WITH FIG AND APPLE CHUTNEY

TUNWORTH SAUCE WITH ROMANESCO COUSCOUS, CEP MUSHROOMS AND CRISPY PANCETTA

TUNWORTH ICE CREAM WITH STRAWBERRIES AND VERJUS SYRUP

MILLET PUDDING WITH GRILLED PEAR AND MARROWBONE

ROAST BEETROOT WITH SHEEP’S CURD AND WHEAT BERRIES

TRUFFLE PUDDING WITH BLACK GARLIC

FROZEN BUTTERMILK SANDWICH

BUTTERMILK CUSTARD WITH GREENGAGE COMPOTE

FRUIT

QUINCE TART WITH GINGERBREAD ICE CREAM

MEADOWSWEET MOUSSE WITH PINEAPPLE WEED

POACHED RHUBARB WITH BROWN BUTTER ICE CREAM

POACHED PEARS WITH ROSEHIP AND COBNUT CRUMB

APPLE GRANITA WITH CIDER MOUSSE

MACERATED CHERRIES WITH ARTICHOKE ICE CREAM AND BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE

GOOSEBERRY MOUSSE WITH HONEYCOMB AND BUTTERMILK GRANITA

LIQUORICE CUSTARD WITH ICED SEA BUCKTHORN

FROZEN BLACKCURRANT MOUSSE

DAMSONS

DAMSON CAKE

DAMSON CHOCOLATE FONDANT

STOUT ICE CREAM WITH DAMSON AND CRAB APPLES

DAMSON SORBET WITH BURNT MERINGUE AND SALTED ALMONDS

DAMSON PÂTE DE FRUIT

POACHED DAMSONS WITH ICED SHISO

STOCKS

GLOSSARY OF PLANTS AND FLOWERS

INDEX OF SEARCHABLE TERMS

COOK’S NOTES

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

INTRODUCTION

The rolling hills of Cumbria might not seem the obvious place for a city boy from Southampton to settle down, and once I thought so too, but now, sixteen years after setting up my restaurants and farm at Cartmel, I feel totally at home there. It is a place that has allowed me to fulfil my dreams, and to create the sort of food I have always wanted to, using ingredients produced to my specifications.