Simon Rogan - Rogan

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Revered as a chef throughout the culinary world, Simon Rogan has a brilliant reputation for artistry, innovation and excellence, and is renowned for the talent, vision and clarity of ethos he brings to his different restaurants.Simon is the chef and restaurateur of L’Enclume, the two-Michelin-star restaurant in Cumbria which has won The Good Food Guide’s Best Restaurant for the past four years. He was a winner on BBC2’s Great British Menu and a mentor on MasterChef, and is the winner of GQ’s Chef of the Year award for 2018. Within the village of Cartmel, where he set up L’Enclume 16 years ago, there is also Rogan & Co, the relaxed neighbourhood restaurant; Aulis, a chef’s table and development kitchen; and Our Farm, where the team select what to grow, when it is harvested and how it is prepared, allowing Simon to truly set a benchmark for the calibre of ingredients he uses. In London there is Roganic, a permanent Marylebone site inspired by the original two-year pop-up which provides a window into the Cartmel operation, and Aulis London, an eight-seater chef’s table which provides a preview experience for dishes that might feature at Roganic.Simon is uniquely placed to write a definitive cookbook that changes the tenor of cookery publishing. Here is a book that perfectly communicates his philosophy of taking farmed and foraged seasonal ingredients to create unforgettable dishes. Simon has led the way in showing that innovative cookery is at its best when using local ingredients with imagination and passion. His food is primal. And it’s natural. But it’s not rough or messy. It’s beautifully refined and has transformed how we view locally sourced cuisine.Simon’s book showcases recipes using beautiful ingredients that are accessible to people everywhere. It combines vibrant recipe pictures with photography that captures the life and landscapes of Our Farm in Cumbria. Breaking the boundaries of how people use their ingredients and cook their food, this will become the cookery book of the year.

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SERVES 4, AS A STARTER

Aubergine purée

1 large aubergine (about 450g)

½ tbsp tahini paste

1 tbsp natural yoghurt

½ tsp roasted chopped garlic

Radish sauce

1 tbsp sunflower oil

1 shallot, sliced

40g button mushrooms, sliced

1½ tsp tomato purée

250g red radishes, thinly sliced

500ml Vegetable Stock

sherry vinegar, for seasoning

5g unsalted butter

Truffle granola

135g honey

35g black truffle oil

35g chilli oil

150g porridge oats

Radishes

12 mixed radishes, such as Cherry Belle, Albena and Viola

2 tbsp rapeseed oil

8 stalks of rhubarb chard (or Swiss chard), stalks removed and cut in half

salt, for seasoning

rapeseed oil, for drizzling

assorted radish flowers and sea purslane, to serve

Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C Fan/Gas Mark 6.

First, make the aubergine purée. Wrap the aubergine in foil and bake it in the oven for 35–40 minutes until completely soft, then halve it lengthways and scoop out the flesh. Put the flesh in a blender with the tahini, yoghurt and garlic and blitz until smooth. Pass through a fine sieve and season with a pinch of salt.

While the aubergine is cooking, make the radish sauce. Warm the oil in a medium, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, add the shallot and sweat for 5–6 minutes, or until translucent, stirring regularly. Add the mushrooms and sweat for a further 3 minutes, or until soft and tender. Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 3–4 minutes. Add the radishes and vegetable stock and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and blitz with a hand-held blender until smooth, then strain through a fine sieve. Finish the sauce by seasoning with sherry vinegar and salt and whisking in the butter.

Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C/140°C Fan/Gas Mark 2.

To make the granola, warm the honey, oils and 1 teaspoon of salt in a small saucepan over a low heat until the honey has melted and the salt dissolved. Mix in the oats. Transfer to a baking tray, spread it out in an even layer and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden. Remove from the oven and leave to cool, then break into small pieces. Leave the oven at the same temperature.

Put the radishes on a baking tray, chopping any larger ones in half, season with a pinch of salt, drizzle over half the oil and roast for 10–12 minutes.

Heat the remaining oil in a medium, non-stick saucepan and add the rhubarb chard leaves along with a splash of water. Cook gently until the leaves have wilted and season with a little salt.

Warm the radish sauce. Put a spoon of the purée in the centre of four plates and place the roasted radishes on top. Add the chard, purslane leaves and flowers. Spoon the sauce around the outside and sprinkle with truffle granola. Drizzle with rapeseed oil.

SALTBAKED TURNIP WITH EGG YOLK AND PORK LARDO Once Britains staple vegetable - фото 16

SALT-BAKED TURNIP WITH EGG YOLK AND PORK LARDO

Once Britain’s staple vegetable (until potatoes came along and took its crown), turnip has lost popularity in modern times, but it deserves a resurgence for its versatility and because it is a great source of vitamin C. Baby turnips have a sweet, delicate taste, while larger ones are stronger and more peppery, but even the more mature roots can burst with flavour when cooked in salt dough. This recipe makes a lot of lardo, but it can be frozen once cured. It needs almost 2 weeks to cure, so make it well ahead ready to use or store it in the freezer until you need it.

SERVES 4, AS A STARTER

Pork lardo

1 tsp black peppercorns

1 tsp fennel seeds

1 tsp ground allspice

1 tsp juniper berries

55g coarse sea salt

30g sugar

1kg pork back fat

Slow-cooked egg yolk

4 eggs

Salt-baked turnip

300g coarse salt

500g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

4 large white turnips

Turnip broth

2kg large white turnips, juiced

200ml double cream

50g unsalted butter

2 tsp xanthan gum

juice of 1 lemon

salt, for seasoning

turnip tops and cornflowers, to serve

For the pork lardo, finely grind the spices in a blender or pestle and mortar. Add the salt and sugar and pulse or grind to combine. Rub the spice mix over the pork fat. Wrap the pork fat tightly in cling film and chill for 11 days. Remove the fat from the cling film and brush off the spices. Place it on a wire rack set over a tray and chill, uncovered, for a further 2 days until dry to the touch.

When you are ready to cook the whole recipe, preheat the oven to 140°C/120°C Fan/Gas Mark 1. In a Pyrex dish or high-sided oven tray, cover the eggs with water and bake for 2 hours. Chill in a bowl of iced water to stop them cooking further. Once cool enough to handle, crack the eggs, remove the yolks and leave to one side. Discard the white.

For the salt-baked turnip, increase the oven temperature to 200°C/180°C Fan/Gas Mark 6. In a large mixing bowl, combine the salt, flour and enough cold water to form a dense dough (about 300ml). Dust a work surface with flour and roll out the dough to a thickness of 1cm. Wrap the turnips in the salt dough, covering them completely. Place on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and bake for 25–30 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature in the dough, then break open. Peel and grate the turnips into a bowl and leave to one side.

Put the turnip juice in a medium saucepan over a medium–high heat and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine sieve to remove the scum that rises to the top and return the juice to a clean pan, on the heat. Stir in the cream and butter, add the xanthan gum and blitz using a hand-held blender. Season with salt and lemon juice. Remove from the heat and warm through before serving.

Cut 12 thin slices of lardo straight from the fridge. Warm the grated turnip and divide it among bowls. Sit an egg yolk on the turnip and top each with 3 slices of lardo. Finish with turnip tops and cornflowers and serve the broth hot on the side.

PICKLED RED PEPPERS AND FENNEL WITH SMOKED TOMATO STOCK

This light and fresh dish is perfect for the hot days of summer, using a selection of ingredients that are at their best in the height of this season. Fennel packs my favourite aniseedy flavour, and it works so well with this chilled mousse, which is made from vegetable purée folded with cream and set with gelatine. The pickled red peppers make the most of summer surplus, as does the smoked tomato stock – leftovers can be sipped as a chilled soup or consommé with pearls of cooked courgette, carrot and torn basil leaves.

SERVES 4, AS A STARTER

Smoked tomato stock

2kg cherry tomatoes

1 garlic clove, chopped

1 celery stick, sliced

1 shallot, sliced

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