Steve Berry: A History of Sweets in 50 Wrappers

Image ceditsConfectionery collections: Lucy Bernstein, John Estlea, Dan Goodsell, Darren Wallington.Comic pages: Combom, Steve Hearn, Alistair McGown. Badges: Frank Setchfield.

First published in Great Britain in 2014 by

The Friday Project

An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers

77–85 Fulham Palace Road

London W6 8JB

www.harpercollins.co.uk

Some of the content of this book originally appeared in The Great British Tuck Shop , published by The Friday Project in 2012

Copyright © Steve Berry and Phil Norman 2014

The right of Steve Berry and Phil Norman to be identified as the authors of this work has been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

ISBN 9780007575480

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted, or stored in a retrieval system, in any form or by any means, without permission in writing from The Friday Project.

Cover design by Luana Gobbo

Illustrations by Jumping Bean Bag Ltd

Ebook Edition © 2014 ISBN: 9780007575473

Version: 2014-09-23

For Suzy, Joanna & Joanne

COVER

TITLE PAGE

COPYRIGHT

DEDICATION

INTRODUCTION

AERO

AZTEC

BOUNTY

CADBURY’S CARAMEL

CARAMAC

CHEWITS

COUNT DRACULA’S DEADLY SECRET

CREME EGG

CRUNCHIE

CURLY WURLY

DAIRY MILK

DIME

DOUBLE AGENTS

DOUBLE DECKER

EXTRA STRONG MINTS

FAB

FLAKE

FOX’S GLACIER MINTS

FREDDO

FRY’S FIVE CENTRES

GOLD RUSH

IPSO

JUBBLY

KINDER SURPRISE

KIT KAT

LOVE HEARTS

MARS

MILKY BAR

PACERS

PICNIC

POLO

REESE’S PIECES

REVELS

ROLO

ROWNTREE’S FRUIT GUMS AND PASTILLES

SHERBET FOUNTAIN

SMARTIES

SPACE DUST

SPANGLES

TERRY’S ALL GOLD

TEXAN

TOBLERONE

TOFFO

TURKISH DELIGHT

TWIX

VIMTO LOLLY

WALNUT WHIP

WHAM

WISPA

YORKIE

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS AND THANKS

ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

For anyone of a certain age, memories of childhood are irrevocably connected to the stomach. The sweet shop was a great leveller. Everyone shopped there, from the Walter Softies to the Bully Beefs (although the bullies would probably steal the softies’ sweets, too). If you were a Milky Bar kid, a Flake girl or one of Fry’s Five Boys, it’s likely that the very first purchase you made with your very own money was something to eat.

There are two acknowledged golden ages of British confectionery. The first came in the 1920s and 1930s when, despite the Depression, the big sweet makers consolidated their brands and expanded nationwide. The second came in the 1970s and 1980s when, despite the Depression, the big names of sweets let their development departments go (fruit and) nuts, shunting out celebrity-endorsed chocolate bars and cartoon-wrapped nougat delights on a weekly basis.

Manufacturing went Technicolor, all the better to catch the wavering eye and stick in the mind for years to come. Sweet shops, until then like antique shops – arthritic, grey and fusty, trapping sunbeams in dust and quietly ossifying – were transformed into glittering Aladdin’s caves, crammed to the rafters with individually wrapped sugared treasures.

Somewhere between decimalisation and globalisation, creative confectionery enjoyed its most fertile period – an auspicious era that began with the last manned moon mission and ended as the first Sky channels beamed into unsuspecting British homes. That journey to the corner shop took on the nature of a pilgrimage for many a child, with a salivating smile and a skipping heartbeat. Inside, a fantastic cornucopia of riches. Some items had a past longer than the shopkeeper himself. Others would go on to outlive him. While many, with hindsight, would never see the year out.

‘Oh, pish, tush and a cheap laugh during a slow edition of QI ! It’s Fry’s Five Boys (1902).

None of this mattered to your prospective sweet purchaser, gloriously transfixed as they were in the moment, surveying the ranks of stock. Iconic Mars bars sitting next to the doomed likes of the Cadbury’s Alamo. The Fruit Salad chew, old as the Book of Genesis, shared shelf space with Trebor’s Fings, Rowntree’s Junglies and other sugary mayflies. In the disinterested eyes of the proprietor, all products, as long as someone bought them, were equal. No preferential treatment here. You had to choose wisely, as funds were limited. Governmental sweet rationing may have ended in 1953, but the economic and parental varieties still held sway.

Many products came and went – mere footnotes in their manufacturers’ inventories – but that doesn’t mean they weren’t coveted, adored, consumed with a passion and, just like old friends, noisily revisited a few hours later on the waste ground behind the prefabs. Fortunately a lot of them tasted the same coming up as going down.

Fings ain’t what they used to be (1981), not least for the racist packaging of Trebor’s Black Jacks (1920).

The marketing men inevitably loom large in this tale, coupling childlike imagination with ruthless raiding of money boxes to create a world of hedonistic abandon, populated by models, mascots and maniacal showbiz personalities all merrily hooked on the product – whatever it may be – and keen to let the whole world know. Often in full song.

For better or worse, their efforts made a generation what it is, and what follows is, as much as anything else, an account of how they focus-grouped our Five Centres.

Those big companies can’t help but tinker with their winning brands, all in the name of progress. Recipes are changed, formulas are tweaked, and – most heinously of all – the packaging is modernised. Do not despair. Despite the disappearance of some cherished childhood chocolate bars, many sweets, crisps, snacks and pop are still available if you look hard enough. Only the artificial colours and preservatives have been jettisoned, in favour of ‘all natural’ ingredients.