Steven A. Frowine - Orchids For Dummies

For orchids such as some of the dendrobiums, cattleya species, and deciduous orchids, like the catasetums, this is a time of rest, so you’ll want to reduce your watering.

Keep the humidity high with good air movement.

If you’re using well water, warm it to room temperature before using it on your orchid plants. Ice-cold water can cause forming buds to drop and may stunt new growth.

Don’t put your orchids too close to the windowpanes or the leaves could be damaged by the cold.

Apply little fertilizer. The orchids won’t need it. In fact, if you apply too much fertilizer at this time, the excess slats in the unused fertilizer can damage orchid roots.

This is another dark month, but the days will be getting longer and brighter, which should cause an increase in growth. Keep the following in mind:

Toward the end of this month, increased light may mean you have to be careful with your orchids that require less light, like the slippers and moth orchids, so they don’t get burned.

More of your orchids will be showing buds and some, especially some of the moth and slipper orchids and some of the oncidiums, should be blooming.

Don’t overcrowd your plants. Make sure they receive as much light as possible.

Provide good air circulation to prevent disease problems.

Stake your cymbidiums, which should be spiking now.

Don’t forget to keep your miltonias and miltoniopsis damp.

If you’re growing under lights, take note of when you last changed your bulbs. Fluorescent lamps can lose up to 40 percent of their light output after several months of use. Because new growth is starting on orchids, this is a good time to change the lamps so the plants will receive the most light possible.

Apply very little fertilizer during this month.

Finally, signs of spring with longer and brighter days. Most orchids will respond very favorably to the increased light and warmth of this month. Here are some guidelines for March:

Be careful that the increased sunlight doesn’t heat up your greenhouse or windowsill too much. Apply shading if necessary.

The increased light and warmth of this month means an acceleration of growth. Sprouting new roots should be more evident.

This is the beginning of the show for many orchids. Many cattleyas, moth orchids, slipper orchids, and oncidiums will be starting to bloom.

As the days get brighter and warmer, you can resume your regular fertilizing schedule.

March and April are prime times to check out orchid shows in your area.

In April, many orchids will be in glorious flower. You’ll notice increased growth and new roots and foliage as spring is at full steam ahead. You’ll be busy tending your orchids. Remember the following:

You’ll probably have to increase the frequency of your watering because of the new plant growth.

As soon as you see new roots emerging in cattleyas, repot. Do it before the roots grow a few inches (5 cm) long.

Many other orchids showing new growth can also be repotted at this time.

Be on the lookout for bugs. The warmer temperatures cause them to hatch.

Dormant orchids should be showing new growth now so you can resume your regular watering schedule.

If you didn’t apply shading on your greenhouse last month, it may be needed now.

A gauze curtain may be needed to soften the light for orchids growing in a south window.

Check out orchid shows in your area.

Rapid growth will continue at full this month as days get brighter and longer. May is another prime month for orchid flowering and another active month for you, their caretaker. Here are some tasks that will need your attention:

More frequent watering and fertilizing is needed.

If you’re in a northern climate, move some plants to a shaded, protected spot outdoors by the end of this month, but be careful not to do this too quickly. Orchids that prefer it warm, like moth orchids, don’t appreciate being too chilled at night, not below around 65°F (18°C).

Increase your ventilation to remove excess hot air and prevent fungal disease spotting on the flowers.

May is usually an opportune time to repot your orchids because they should be in active growth now. Attend to this right after they’ve flowered.

Continue your fertilizing program to strengthen new growth.

Temperatures are starting to heat up now. Some orchids, like a few of the summer blooming hybrid cattleyas, moth orchids, oncidiums, and slipper orchids, will be in flower. These months aren’t usually noted for a lot of orchid flowering, but they’re a time when the plants produce many roots and leaves to build up energy for future blooming so pay attention to them in the following ways:

Be sure your windowsill or greenhouse doesn’t get too hot. Consider moving the orchids you have in the south window to the east window, where they’ll have reduced light and heat.

For orchids growing under lights, make sure your growing area gets plenty of ventilation because it could be getting very warm now under the lights. If you have trouble keeping the temperatures low enough, consider summering your orchids outside in a shaded and protected spot. They’ll enjoy the vacation.

This is also a prime time for insect problems. If it gets hot and dry, be on the lookout for mites. If it’s wet, slugs and snails will be a plague. Aphids, mealybugs, and scale can show up anytime. If you need to spray, do it in the morning when it is cool and be sure the orchids are well watered before you spray. Check out Chapter 9for more information to handle bugs.

The orchids should now be responding to your earlier repotting efforts with new root growth.

Repot miltonias. Remember: They like to be pot-bound, so don’t put them in too large of a pot. This is true for most orchids. If they’re overpotted (the pot being larger that desired), there’s a tendency for the potting material not to dry adequately between watering, which can result in rotted roots.

Cool evenings and shorter days are signs of the change of season. Many of the hybrid vandas will be at their blooming peak in September. The cooler nights are beneficial for initiating or setting flower buds for the fall-blooming cattleyas, oncidiums, dendrobiums, angraecums, and moth orchids and slipper orchids. Here are a few fall tasks:

If you’re in a cold climate, bring indoors any plants that have been summering outside. Before doing so, check them closely for pests. If spraying is called for, doing so is much easier and safer to do while the plants are outdoors.

Start cutting back on the frequency of watering deciduous orchids like catasetums (which will have yellowing foliage at this time of year).

Remove shade on the greenhouse in most parts of the Northern Hemisphere.

Move orchids that require a lot of light from the east window back to the southern exposure.

Some cattleya species and their relatives and hybrids will be in bloom now. So will some moth orchid species and hybrids and oncidiums. Do the following for your orchids, no matter if they’re in a greenhouse, under lights, or on the windowsill:

As days continue to shorten and the angle of light gets lower in the sky, position the orchids in your windowsill and greenhouse so that they capture the most light.

Be sure your glass or glazing surface is clean. This can make a real difference in light transmission.

Growth will start to slow on many orchids from lower temperatures and light, so reduce watering and fertilizing accordingly.