Коллектив авторов - Конец моды. Одежда и костюм в эпоху глобализации

Mazzoleni. Changes (с опорой на: Klinger, Svenson).

Rocamora. New Fashion Times.

Couldry. Mediatization. См. также Hepp. Differentiation; Hjarvard S. The Mediatization of Society: A Theory of the Media as Agents of Social and Cultural Change // Nordicom Review. 2008. 29, no. 2. Pp. 105–134; Jansson A. Using Bourdieu in Critical Mediatization Research // MedieKultur. 2015. 58. Pp. 13–29.

См.: Butler S. Marks & Spencer Takes Control of Its Online Store from Amazon // The Guardian. 2014. www.theguardian.com/business/2014/feb/18/marks-spencer-control-online-shoppingwebsite-amazon (accessed 19.02.2014).

Strömbäck J., Esser F. Shaping Politics: Mediatization and Media Interventionism // Mediatization: Concept, Changes, Consequences, ed. K. Lundby. New York: Peter Lang, 2009. P. 213; но см. также: Landerer N. Rethinking the Logics: A Conceptual Framework for the Mediatization of Politics // Communication Theory. 2013. 23. Pp. 239–258.

См., например: Eskjaer. The Mediatization of Ethical Consumption. P. 29; Jansson A. The Mediatization of Consumption: Towards an Analytical Framework of Image Culture // Journal of Consumer Culture. 2002. 2, no. 5. Pp. 5–31; Kaun A., Fast K. Mediatization of Culture and Everyday Life. Mediestudier vid Södertörns högskola:1. Karlstad University Studies, 2014.

См. также: Ekstrom et al. Three Tasks. P. 10; Lundby. Mediatization. P. 8; Kortti. Media History. P. 115.

Krotz. Explaining; Murdock. Mediatisation.

Murdock. Mediatisation. P. 3.

Ibid. P. 4.

Fuchs Ch. Foundations of Critical Media and Information Studies. London: Routledge, 2011; Curran J., Fenton N., Freedman D. Misunderstanding the Internet. London: Routledge, 2016.

См., например: Cramer Th. Inside Content Marketing. Chicago: Information Today, 2016; De Pelsmecker P. Introduction // Advertising in New Formats and Media / Еd. P. De Pelsmecker. Bingley: Emerald Publishing, 2016.

De Pelsmecker. Introduction.

См. также: Hardy J. Sponsored Content Is Compromising Media Integrityю 2017. April 12. www.opendemocracy.net/jonathan-hardy/sponsoredcontent-is-blurring-line-between-advertising-and-editorial .

Bô D., Guével M. Brand Content: Comment les Marques de Transforment on Médias. Paris: Dunod, 2009.

Cramer. Inside Content. P. 6.

Bourdieu P. The Field of Cultural Production. Cambridge: Polity, 1993.

Lury C. Consumer Culture. Cambridge: Polity, 1996.

Jansson. Mediatization. P. 6.

Ibid. P. 7.

www.cdmdiary.com/en/about-cdm/ (accessed 17.07.2017).

Об этих изменениях см.: Bourdieu P., Delsaut Y. Le Couturier et sa Griffe. Contribution a une Théorie de la Magie // Actes de la Recherche en Sciences Sociales. 1975. 1. Pp. 7–36.

См.: Jenkins. Convergence Culture.

См., например: Bô, Guével. Brand Content. P. 138.

Butler. Marks & Spencer Takes Control of Its Online Store from Amazon.

Ibid.

См.: Kammer A. The Mediatization of Journalism // MedieKultur. 2013. 54. Pp. 141–148.

См. также: De Pelsmecker. Introduction.

Lundby. Mediatization. P. 32.

Ibid.

Hardy. Sponsored Content Is Compromising Media Integrity.

Ibid.

См.: Rocamora. The Labour of Fashion Blogging.

Ibid.

Rocamora. Personal Fashion Blogs; Rocamora. Mediatization and Digitization.

Ibid.

См.: Rocamora. Mediatization and Digitization.

См.: Landow G. P. Hypertext 2.0. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1997; Rocamora. Personal Fashion Blogs.

Black S. Fashion Is Often Very Old-Fashioned // The Sustainable Fashion Handbook / Еd. S. Black. London: Thames and Hudson, 2012. P. 116.

Стелла Маккартни в беседе с Люси Сигл. Лондонский колледж моды. 14 ноября 2016 года.

Cordero R. Lidewij Edelkoort: Fashion Is Old Fashioned // The VOICES London conference. Business of Fashion. 2016. December 5. www.businessoffashion.com/articles/voices/li-edelkoort-anti-fashionmanifesto-fashion-is-old-fashioned (accessed 17.05.2017).

В своем выступлении на Копенгагенском саммите моды 11 мая 2017 года дизайнер Прабал Гурунг говорил прежде всего о необходимости содействовать экологическим тенденциям в моде.

Black S. Eco Chic: The Fashion Paradox. London: Black Dog Publishing, 2008; Fletcher K. Sustainable Fashion and Textiles. Design Journeys. London: Earthscan, 2008.

29 percent of total spending online is on clothing and footwear, up from 13 percent in 2011. www.britishfashioncouncil.org.uk/pressreleases/The-British-Fashion-Industry–London-Fashion-Week-Facts–Figures . 2016. February.

Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group, May 2017 // The Pulse of the Fashion Industry report. P. 10. 2017. www.copenhagenfashionsummit.com/pulsereport (accessed 15.05.2017).

В 2013 году этот показатель, по подсчетам Британского совета моды и Oxford Economics, составил 26 миллиардов фунтов стерлингов. www.britishfashioncouncil.org.uk/pressreleases/London-Fashion-Week-February-2017-Facts-and-Figures .

Clothing Retailing – UK // Mintel. October 2016 report. store.mintel.com/clothing-retailing-uk-october-2016 (accessed 30.05.2017).

DCMS, Creative Industries Mapping Document. London: UK Government Department of Culture, Media and Sport, 1998; Centre for Fashion Enterprise, The UK Designer Fashion Economy: Value Relationships – Identifying Barriers and Creating Opportunities for Business Growth. Report commissioned by NESTA. London: CFE, 2008; British Fashion Council (BFC) and Oxford Economics, The Value of the UK Fashion Industry: Economic Considerations for Growth. London: BFC, 2010.

Christopher M., Lowson R., Peck H. Creating Agile Supply Chains in the Fashion Industry // International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management. 2004. 32, no. 8; Malem W. Fashion Designers as Business: London // Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. 2008. 12, no. 3.