Lisa Chaney - Coco Chanel - An Intimate Life

15. Gabrielle Dorziat in another Chanel hat, 1912.

16. Outside Gabrielle’s boutique with Adrienne ( left ) in Deauville, 1913. Note the awning reading “Gabrielle Chanel.”

17. By 1913 Gabrielle was becoming known, and Sem caricatured her with her immensely eligible lover Arthur Capel.

18. Gabrielle at her Deauville shop doorway. Previously unrecognized, on her right is Capel; furthest right is Balsan, still a friend. (There are only a handful of known photos of Gabrielle and Capel together.)

19. Gabrielle was in the minority of women who took to playing sports. At Deauville, c. 1913.

20. Gabrielle, Capel and Constant

Say at St-Jean-de-Luz in a moment of calm during the First World War.

21. The Picassos in front of Pablo’s Ballets Russes poster, 1917. Olga’s outfit, including her handbag, are Chanel.

22. John Singer Sargent’s drawing of Diana Wyndham, the young Englishwoman who would usurp Gabrielle.

23. Deauville Polo Club’s Arthur Capel trophy, given by his sister, Berthe, possibly in conjunction with Gabrielle.

24. Sergei Diaghilev ( left ) and Igor Stravinsky, c. 1920, with whom Gabrielle became intimately associated.

25. Clockwise from top left: Stravinsky, José Maria Sert, Gabrielle and the inimitable Misia Sert.

26. Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich.

27. Gabrielle in the garden of her palatial new address, 29 Faubourg St-Honoré, early 1920s.

28. Dmitri Pavlovich. with Gabrielle, 1920.

29. The earliest depiction of Chanel № 5, by Sem, c. 1921–2.

30. Gabrielle’s costumes for Le Train bleu , 1922, were crucial to its up-to-the-minute air. Lydia Sokolova, Anton Dolin, Jean Cocteau, Leon Woizikovsky, Bronislava Nijinska.

31. Lydia Sokolova, Anton Dolin, Bronislava Nijinska and Leon Woizikovsky in Le Train bleu .

32. Lubov Tchernicheva as Calliope in Apollon musagète , 1929, her tricot tunic bound with neckties from Charvet, a classically simple Chanel touch.

33. The poet Pierre Reverdy, whom Gabrielle lost to his religion.

34. Paul Morand, man of letters, who took Gabrielle’s memoir.

35. Bend’Or, Second Duke of Westminster.

36. The Duke of Westminster’s Cheshire home, Eaton Hall.

37. Gabrielle with Winston and Randolph Churchill, boar-hunting on Bend’Or’s French estate, 1928.

38. Marion Morehouse in a signature “little black dress” by Gabrielle, 1926.

39. At Biarritz, 1928, in her trademark jersey, two-tone shoes and imitation jewelery.

40. Gabrielle on the Venice Lido, c. 1930, with Misia Sert and Madame Berthelot. José Maria Sert is behind.

41. Skiing with society; Gabrielle ( center ). Behind are Etienne and Edith de Beaumont.

42. Gabrielle in jersey suit, c. 1931; note the return of the waist.

43. In New York, 1931, on Gabrielle’s triumphant first trip to the United States.

44. Gabrielle with English society models, 1932; Lady Pamela Smith stands.