Lisa Chaney - Coco Chanel - An Intimate Life

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The controversial story of Chanel, the twentieth century's foremost fashion icon. Revolutionizing women's dress, Gabrielle "Coco'' Chanel was the twentieth century's most influential designer. Her extraordinary and unconventional journey-from abject poverty to a new kind of glamour- helped forge the idea of modern woman.
Unearthing an astonishing life, this remarkable biography shows how, more than any previous designer, Chanel became synonymous with a rebellious and progressive style. Her numerous liaisons, whose poignant and tragic details have eluded all previous biographers, were the very stuff of legend. Witty and mesmerizing, she became muse, patron, or mistress to the century's most celebrated artists, including Picasso, Dalí, and Stravinsky.
Drawing on newly discovered love letters and other records, Chaney's controversial book reveals the truth about Chanel's drug habit and lesbian affairs. And the question about Chanel's German lover during World War II (was he a spy for the Nazis?) is definitively answered.
While uniquely highlighting the designer's far-reaching influence on the modern arts, Chaney's fascinating biography paints a deeper and darker picture of Coco Chanel than any so far. Movingly, it explores the origins, the creative power, and the secret suffering of this exceptional and often misread woman.

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Scott, Ridley

sea bathing

Second Empire, France

Secret of the Medici

Segonzac, André de

Segonzac, Comte Jean de

Sem (Georges Goursat)

Sert, José Maria

Sert, Misia Edwards

as affected by Depression

as annoyed with Gabrielle’s philanthropy

and creation of Chanel № 5,

decorating by

deserted by Sert

Diaghilev’s friendship with

drugs used by

Gabrielle influenced by

Gabrielle placed in apartment by

and Gabrielle’s affair with Stravinsky

memoirs of

salon acquired by

at Sorel’s party

sewing machines

sexual inclinations

Seyrig, Delphine

Shervashidze, Prince

shoulder pads

silk

Simpson, Wallis

Singer, Winnaretta

Six, Les

Sjorza, Countess

skirts

short

smart trousers

Smith, Pamela, Lady

Snow, Carmel

social hierarchies

Sokolova, Lydia (Hilda Munnigs)

Somme, Battle of

Sorel, Cécile

Soviet Union

Spain

Spears, Edward

Speer, Albert

Spiritualism

Stern, Herman

stock market crash (1929)

Stöhrer, Ute von

Stonyhurst College

Stravinsky, Catherine

Stravinsky, Igor

death of

Gabrielle’s affair with

Streitz, Robert

strikes in France

Stroheim, Erich von

Stülpnagel, Carl-Heinrich von

style, fashion vs.

Sullivan, Anne

suntans

surrealism

Swanson, Gloria

sweaters

Sweetinburgh, Thelma

swimsuits

Switzerland

Synarchist Empire Movement

Syndicat de la Couture

syphilis

Tagore, Rabindranath

Talmadge, Norma

Tatou, Audrey

Taylor, Elizabeth

Tehran Conference (1943)

Témoin, Le

Ten Commandments, The (film)

Tender Is the Night (Fitzgerald)

10th Light Horse Regiment

Théâtre des Arts

Théâtre des Champs-Elysées

Theosophists

Time

Times, The (London)

Tonight or Never (film)

Toulemon, Elise (Caryathis)

Toulmin, Evelyn

Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri

Train, Susan

Train Bleu

Train Bleu, Le (ballet)

Traviata, La (opera)

tweed

Tzara, Tristan

United States

in World War I,

Uriage, France

Uzanne, Octave

Vadim, Roger

Valentino

Valéry, Paul

Vallat, Xavier

Vanderbilt, Consuelo

Varennes, France

Vaufreland, Louis de

Vendôme

Venice, Italy

Verdun, Battle of

Verlaine, Paul

Versailles Conference (1919)

Vichy, France

Victoria, Grand Duchess

Victory Ball, Paris

Viezaux, Etienne de (St. Stephen)

Viggiano, Yvonne

Villa Larralde

Vilmorin, Louise de

Vionnet, Madeleine

Visconti, Luchino

Vivien, Renée

Vogue

Vreeland, Diana

Vuillard, Édouard

Wagner, Richard

waistlines

Wales, David Prince of, see Edward VIII, King of England

Warkowska, Madame

Waugh, Evelyn

Weber-Rosenkranz, Baroness

Wertheimer, Alain

Wertheimer, Gérard

Wertheimer, Jacques

Wertheimer, Paul

Wertheimer, Pierre

West, Mae

West, Shelagh

Westminster, Duke of, see Bend’Or

Wilhelm II, Kaiser

Williams, Harrison

Williams, Mona

women

bodies of

horse riding by

liberation of

in men’s clothes

practical outfits worn by

Women’s Wear Daily

Woolf, Virginia

World War I,

casualties of

French mutinies in

technology in

World War II,

Gabrielle’s escape from Paris in

Phony War in

Worth, Charles Frederick

Wyndham, Diana

Capel’ affair with

Gabrielle disliked by

Wyndham, Percy

youth

Yturbe, Miguel de

Zola, Emile

Zuylen, Egmont van

Zuylen, Maggie van

Zweig, Arnold

1 The vast chestnut forests seen from Ponteils the mountainous Cevennes - фото 7

1. The vast chestnut forests seen from Ponteils, the mountainous Cevennes hamlet where Gabrielle’s paternal ancestors lived.

2 Gabrielles greatgrandfathers inn the Chanel Today the shutters - фото 8

2. Gabrielle’s great-grandfather’s inn, “the Chanel.” Today, the shutters firmly shut, its stony bulk has an air of neglect.

3 The Aubazine conventorphanage where Gabrielle lived for many years 4 - фото 9

3. The Aubazine convent-orphanage where Gabrielle lived for many years.

4 The earliest known photograph of Gabrielle with Adrienne at Vichy c 1904 - фото 10

4. The earliest known photograph of Gabrielle, with Adrienne at Vichy c. 1904.

5 Etienne Balsan on military service c 1903 around the time Gabrielle met - фото 11

5. Etienne Balsan on military service, c. 1903, around the time Gabrielle met him.

6 Gabrielle c 1909 Tastes were changing her angular modern beauty had - фото 12

6. Gabrielle, c. 1909. Tastes were changing; her angular “modern” beauty had become desirable.

7 The famed courtesan Emilienne dAlençon Etienne Balsans lover when - фото 13

7. The famed courtesan, Emilienne d’Alençon, Etienne Balsan’s lover when Gabrielle appeared on the scene.

8 Royallieu where Gabrielle lived with Etienne as his mistress 9 Arthur - фото 14

8. Royallieu, where Gabrielle lived with Etienne as his mistress.

9 Arthur Boy Capel c 1910 who was to transform Gabrielles life 10 - фото 15

9. Arthur “Boy” Capel, c. 1910, who was to transform Gabrielle’s life.

10 Arthur Capel and Gabrielle Jodhpurs and sitting astride were - фото 16

10. Arthur Capel and Gabrielle. Jodhpurs and sitting astride were unconventional for a horsewoman in 1910.

11 Arthur Capel was a noted horseman and excelled at polo 12 Gabrielle in - фото 17

11. Arthur Capel was a noted horseman and excelled at polo.

12 Gabrielle in her own hats seen in Comoedia Illustré 1910 13 The - фото 18

12. Gabrielle in her own hats, seen in Comoedia Illustré , 1910.

13 The actress Gabrielle Dorziat 1910 in MarieLouise hats almost - фото 19

13. The actress Gabrielle Dorziat 1910, in “Marie-Louise” hats, almost indistinguishable from Gabrielle’s own designs.

14 Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat for the play Bel Ami 1912 15 - фото 20

14. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat for the play Bel Ami , 1912.

15 Gabrielle Dorziat in another Chanel hat 1912 16 Outside Gabrielles - фото 21

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