Scott, Ridley
sea bathing
Second Empire, France
Secret of the Medici
Segonzac, André de
Segonzac, Comte Jean de
Sem (Georges Goursat)
Sert, José Maria
Sert, Misia Edwards
as affected by Depression
as annoyed with Gabrielle’s philanthropy
and creation of Chanel № 5,
decorating by
deserted by Sert
Diaghilev’s friendship with
drugs used by
Gabrielle influenced by
Gabrielle placed in apartment by
and Gabrielle’s affair with Stravinsky
memoirs of
salon acquired by
at Sorel’s party
sewing machines
sexual inclinations
Seyrig, Delphine
Shervashidze, Prince
shoulder pads
silk
Simpson, Wallis
Singer, Winnaretta
Six, Les
Sjorza, Countess
skirts
short
smart trousers
Smith, Pamela, Lady
Snow, Carmel
social hierarchies
Sokolova, Lydia (Hilda Munnigs)
Somme, Battle of
Sorel, Cécile
Soviet Union
Spain
Spears, Edward
Speer, Albert
Spiritualism
Stern, Herman
stock market crash (1929)
Stöhrer, Ute von
Stonyhurst College
Stravinsky, Catherine
Stravinsky, Igor
death of
Gabrielle’s affair with
Streitz, Robert
strikes in France
Stroheim, Erich von
Stülpnagel, Carl-Heinrich von
style, fashion vs.
Sullivan, Anne
suntans
surrealism
Swanson, Gloria
sweaters
Sweetinburgh, Thelma
swimsuits
Switzerland
Synarchist Empire Movement
Syndicat de la Couture
syphilis
Tagore, Rabindranath
Talmadge, Norma
Tatou, Audrey
Taylor, Elizabeth
Tehran Conference (1943)
Témoin, Le
Ten Commandments, The (film)
Tender Is the Night (Fitzgerald)
10th Light Horse Regiment
Théâtre des Arts
Théâtre des Champs-Elysées
Theosophists
Time
Times, The (London)
Tonight or Never (film)
Toulemon, Elise (Caryathis)
Toulmin, Evelyn
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri
Train, Susan
Train Bleu
Train Bleu, Le (ballet)
Traviata, La (opera)
tweed
Tzara, Tristan
United States
in World War I,
Uriage, France
Uzanne, Octave
Vadim, Roger
Valentino
Valéry, Paul
Vallat, Xavier
Vanderbilt, Consuelo
Varennes, France
Vaufreland, Louis de
Vendôme
Venice, Italy
Verdun, Battle of
Verlaine, Paul
Versailles Conference (1919)
Vichy, France
Victoria, Grand Duchess
Victory Ball, Paris
Viezaux, Etienne de (St. Stephen)
Viggiano, Yvonne
Villa Larralde
Vilmorin, Louise de
Vionnet, Madeleine
Visconti, Luchino
Vivien, Renée
Vogue
Vreeland, Diana
Vuillard, Édouard
Wagner, Richard
waistlines
Wales, David Prince of, see Edward VIII, King of England
Warkowska, Madame
Waugh, Evelyn
Weber-Rosenkranz, Baroness
Wertheimer, Alain
Wertheimer, Gérard
Wertheimer, Jacques
Wertheimer, Paul
Wertheimer, Pierre
West, Mae
West, Shelagh
Westminster, Duke of, see Bend’Or
Wilhelm II, Kaiser
Williams, Harrison
Williams, Mona
women
bodies of
horse riding by
liberation of
in men’s clothes
practical outfits worn by
Women’s Wear Daily
Woolf, Virginia
World War I,
casualties of
French mutinies in
technology in
World War II,
Gabrielle’s escape from Paris in
Phony War in
Worth, Charles Frederick
Wyndham, Diana
Capel’ affair with
Gabrielle disliked by
Wyndham, Percy
youth
Yturbe, Miguel de
Zola, Emile
Zuylen, Egmont van
Zuylen, Maggie van
Zweig, Arnold

1. The vast chestnut forests seen from Ponteils, the mountainous Cevennes hamlet where Gabrielle’s paternal ancestors lived.

2. Gabrielle’s great-grandfather’s inn, “the Chanel.” Today, the shutters firmly shut, its stony bulk has an air of neglect.

3. The Aubazine convent-orphanage where Gabrielle lived for many years.

4. The earliest known photograph of Gabrielle, with Adrienne at Vichy c. 1904.

5. Etienne Balsan on military service, c. 1903, around the time Gabrielle met him.

6. Gabrielle, c. 1909. Tastes were changing; her angular “modern” beauty had become desirable.

7. The famed courtesan, Emilienne d’Alençon, Etienne Balsan’s lover when Gabrielle appeared on the scene.

8. Royallieu, where Gabrielle lived with Etienne as his mistress.

9. Arthur “Boy” Capel, c. 1910, who was to transform Gabrielle’s life.

10. Arthur Capel and Gabrielle. Jodhpurs and sitting astride were unconventional for a horsewoman in 1910.

11. Arthur Capel was a noted horseman and excelled at polo.

12. Gabrielle in her own hats, seen in Comoedia Illustré , 1910.

13. The actress Gabrielle Dorziat 1910, in “Marie-Louise” hats, almost indistinguishable from Gabrielle’s own designs.

14. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat for the play Bel Ami , 1912.

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