Simon Foster - CHINA's Three Gorges & Xi'an

Where to Shop

China has all kinds of retail outlets, from rickety one-man stalls to exclusive boutiquesand emporiumsand they're all worth visiting to get a flavor for the dichotomy that is modern China. See individual chapters for prime shopping spots.

Note that returning goods is not as simple as at home. Although department stores or chains might have some kind of policy, this is usually only valid at that particular store, for a limited period (usually a week). Even with an unopened (or damaged) item and a receipt, exchange is the best you can expect to get – refunds are almost unheard of.

Market stall

Markets

China abounds in markets and they make a great place to buy everything from vegetables to traditional art. In the cities you'll find markets for everyday goodsand food, as well as those selling antiques, clothesand handicrafts. Nightmarketsare also popular and usually offer a range of stalls, along with places to eat. In the country, markets are often a social focal point, worth visiting for their snapshot of rural life, regardless of shopping. Here you'll probably see antique coin salesmen, fortune tellers, hairdressersand medical practitioners, as well as all manner of fruits, vegetablesand livestock. Markets are always fair game for bargaining, particularly those at tourist sights.

Emporiums

If you've come on a tour you're almost certain to see at least one of these places. Emporiums are usually government-approvedand tend to offer a variety of crafts, usually reflecting the specialty of the region. They are also often attached to " factories” where you can see the items in question being produced, although this is generally for show – the second a group leaves, the employees stop work! Groups are usually taken by a guide, who will receive a commission (as will the travel company) on anything you buy. But, if you walk into an emporium unaccompanied, you're unlikely to pay less. The advantages emporiums offer are the ease of a fixed price (though you can haggle a little) and the guarantee of quality. If you do plan to spend a significant amount, it's worth making sure the item is genuine – unless you're an expert this can be difficult, so it's easiest to buy from an approved store.

Shopping Malls & Department Stores

New shopping mallsare springing up all the time in China's city centers and weekends see the urban elites out furiously flexing their credit cards. These giants hold designer label outlets, bookstores, electronicsand music storesand they often have food courtsand good supermarketsin their basements. Department stores can be a different story, especially in smaller towns, where they tend to be full of staff sitting behind glass cabinets waiting for the next victim who will have to endure reams of paperwork for the smallest of purchases. In spite of attempts to modernize, most branches of the Friendship Storeremain similarly fusty, but it's China's most established department store (previously a foreigners' only emporium) and has quality items from all over the country, which can be a good (above average) price guide.

Everyday Needs

It used to be difficult to get everyday items such as toiletriesand milkin China, but these days most products you'll need are easily available in the big cities. Foreign supermarkets such as Wal-Martand Carrefourhave established themselves and provide an interesting mix of imported and local products. For toiletries, head to Watson's, which can be found in Beijing, Xi'an, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Macau.

The Art of Bargaining

The Chinese are renowned for their tactical bargainingability and are likely to mark up prices at the sight of a foreigner. Indeed, until recently, China had a dual pricing structure and the overcharging of foreignerswas official policy. However, these days, while it will be difficult for you to get "local price,” you can certainly aim to knock at least a third off the asking price and often much more. For cheaper purchases, amounts are negligible when converted to dollars, euros or pounds, but for bigger items a little strategy can help you to get a fair price.

First, check out a few places (ideally including a fixed-price shop) before trying to bargain anywhere.

Second, don't start bargaining unless you definitely want the item in question.

Third, have a fixed price in your head that you won't go above and ideally a back-up similar item (the one you want often suddenly becomes "unique” and hence more expensive).

Fourth, if you're not getting near your price and the vendor stops going lower, try the slow walk out – half the time you'll be called back and get your price, or negotiations can recommence.

Finally, remember that while the difference between your price and the vendor's may be minimal, chances are this amount will mean more to the vendor than you and, if you see something you like, you might regret not buying for the sake of a few dollars! Conversely, don't feel guilty if the vendor acts hurt – no matter what they say they won't sell if they aren't making money.

Finger Counting

Illiteracy and the presence of numerous mutually unintelligible local dialects has led to the development of an easy system of finger counting in China. Memorize the hand signals below (from left to right, they represent the numbers one to 10) and you're all set for a hard day of bargaining at the markets.

Adventures

Conventionally, you may think of adventures as being outdooror physical activities, but travel is all about exploration, and in this book the aim is to allow you to experience the manifold facets of this vast, diverse country. Thus, an adventure could be a hikeor a bike ride, but it might also be learning to cook Chinese foodor studying the ancient art of calligraphy. For each area covered you will find an "Adventures” section, sub-divided into the different forms of adventure for that region, such as "On Water,” "On Wheels” and "Cultural Adventures.” Accounts include contact details (where required), approximate costs and durations, what to expect and routes for bike rides and walks. Durations indicate the length of time walking or cycling and do not account for how long you spend at any sights en route. For physical, outdoor adventures like climbing or kayaking, be sure to check that your insurance policy is adequate. For cultural adventures you'll find background information in the Culture section of the book. If you're interested in one specific style of adventure and want your holiday to focus on that, then it might be worth booking a specialized tour (see Specialized Tours ).

Eco-Travel

Tourism is set to be the world's biggest industry, but all too often it involves destruction of both the physical and social environment. When we seek out new and unexplored locales around the globe, we are, of course, irrevocably changing that place, all the more so by telling tales of unspoiled beauty on our return. In my work as a travel writer and tour leader I feel more at fault than most. The truth is that sooner or later all the "untouched” destinations will be gone, but what we can do is make the "touch” a light one. Eco-tourismis really about responsible tourism; minimizing negative impactson the physical environment and indigenous cultures while maximizing the positive contributions travelers can make. China doesn't yet have much in the way of eco-tourism, but you can do your bit nonetheless. Below are a few pointers (most of which are purely common sense) that will help you do the right thing.