Paul Theroux - The Great Railway Bazaar

The sense of occasion, the formality of the dinner, the cost of the food, the presence of the geishas, the absence of men – all the rules observed – made the viewing of this antique piece of pornography possible. Any hint of the casual would have ruined it. The scroll, rolled up and wrapped, was gracefully presented to the American woman: she was told that she could show it to her husband, but she must not allow her little girl to see it. After a week it was to be returned to its owner. The American woman was baffled – and slightly embarrassed that the kindergarten teacher had witnessed it all. But the American woman (who told me the story) was flattered at being offered this glimpse of the Japanese cultural sorority, which was undoubtedly the whole intention.

'Little people in a big hurry,' said a man on the rapid train south, and he thought he'd nailed them down. But the more I thought about that ceremony in the Sapporo teahouse, the less Hokkaido looked like Wisconsin.

THE HIKARI ('SUNBEAM') SUPER EXPRESS TO KYOTO

Back at Tokyo Central, on Platform 18, a hundred Japanese men in grey suits stood watching my train. There was a melancholy reverence in their faces. They had no luggage; they were not travellers. Grouped around one car in a respectful semicircle, they stared, their eyes fixed to one window. Inside the train, at that window, a man and woman stood next to their seats, their chins just showing below the window frame. The whistle was blown; the train started up, but before it moved an inch the man and woman began bowing at the window, again and again, and outside on the platform, the hundred men did the same – quickly, because the train was speeding. The bowing stopped: the hundred men burst into applause. The man and woman remained standing until we were out of the station and then they sat down and each opened a newspaper.

I asked the Japanese man next to me who they might be.

He shook his head. For a moment I thought he was going to say, 'No Engrish' – but he was thinking. He said, 'Offhand, I would say a company director. Or it could be a politician. I do not know him.'

'It's quite a send-off

'It is not unusual in Japan. The man is important. His employees must show some respect, even if – he smiled – 'even if they do not feel it in their hearts.'

I wanted to pursue the matter, but I was framing a question when this man beside me reached into his briefcase and took out a well-thumbed copy of the Penguin edition of The Golden Bowl. He opened it in the middle, flexed the limp spine, and began reading. I did the same with Silence, by Shusaku Endo, feeling lucky beyond belief that I had Endo and not Henry James to cheer me up. The man clicked his ballpoint pen, scribbled three characters in an already scribbled margin, and turned the page. Watching someone read the later James can be very tiring. I read until the conductor came by, and when he had finished punching everyone's ticket he walked backwards up the aisle, bowing and saying, 'Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!' until he reached the door. The Japanese have perfected good manners and made them indistinguishable from rudeness.

I looked out the window, watching for the Tokyo suburbs to end, but they continued to appear, stretching as far as I could see along the flat biscuit-brown plain. The Hikari Super Express, the fastest passenger train in the world, which travels over 300 miles from Tokyo to Kyoto in less than three hours, never really leaves the pure horror of the megalopolis that joins these two cities. Under a sky, which tawny fumes have given the texture of wool, are pylons secured by cables, buildings shaped like jumbo rheostats, and an unzoned clutter of houses, none larger than two stories, whose picture windows front on to factories. Inside I knew this from an evening visit in Toyko – the houses are stark, austere, impeccable, impossible to date accurately; outside the faded wood retains the colour of soot that has sifted from the neighbourhood factory chimney, and no house is more than a foot from the one next door. To see this population density is to conclude that overcrowding requires good manners; any disturbance, anything less than perfect order, would send it sprawling.

A glimpse of two acres of farmland made me hopeful of more fields, but it was a novelty, no more than that: the tiny plough, the narrow furrows, the winter crops sown inches apart, the hay not stacked but collected in small swatches – a farm in miniature. In the distance, the pattern was repeated on several hills, but there the furrows were filled with snow, giving that landscape the look of seersucker. That was the image that occurred to me, but by the time I thought of it we were miles away. The train moved faster than my mind – so fast, everyone remained seated. It was hard to ramble around a train moving at that speed – a single lurch would have you on the floor – and the only people who risked the aisles were the girls pushing trolleys with tea and cookies. Lacking the traditional features of the railway bazaar, the Japanese train relies on aircraft comforts: silence, leg room, a reading light – charging an extra ten dollars to sit two (instead of three) abreast, and discouraging passengers from standing and gabbing at the exits. Speed puts some people to sleep, others it makes breathless. It doesn't enliven conversation. I missed the slower trains with the lounge cars and the rackety wheels. Japanese train journeys were practical, uncongenial transitions from city to city: only the punctual arrival mattered. The frseeeeeeee-fronnnng trains of Asia were behind me. Still, I put my oar in.

'I see you're reading Henry James.'

The man laughed.

'I find the later James evasive,' I said.

'Hard to understand?'

'No, not hard to understand -just evasive.'

'You can take my course!'

'Do you give a course on James?'

'Well, I call the course simply "The Golden Bowl".'

'It sounds ambitious,' I said. 'How long does it take your average student to read The Golden Bowl?'

'The course lasts two years.'

'Which other book do they read?'

'Just that one.'

'Good God! How many lectures do you give?'

He did a little arithmetic, using his fingertips, then said, 'About twenty lectures a year. That would make forty lectures altogether.'

'I'm reading Shusaku Endo.'

'I noticed. He is one of our Christians.'

'Do you teach Japanese literature?'

'Oh, yes. But the students keep saying we're not modern enough. They want to read books written after the war.'

'Which war?'

'World War One – the ones written after the Meiji restoration.'

'So you concentrate on the classics?'

'Yes, eighth century, ninth century, also eleventh century.' He enumerated the works and put the James away. He was, he said, a university professor. His name was Professor Toyama and he taught at one of the universities in Kyoto. He said I would like Kyoto. Faulkner had liked it very much, and Saul Bellow – well, he had liked it too. 'Mr Saul Bellow was not enjoying himself. Then we took him to a strip show. He liked it quite a lot!'

'I bet.'

'Are you interested in strip shows?'

'Up to a point,' I said. 'But the one I saw wasn't a strip show. Sadists making love to masochists, nude suicides – I've never seen such blood! I really don't have the stomach for it. Have you ever been to Nichigeki Music Hall?'

'Yes,' said Professor Toyama. 'That's nothing.'

'Well, I don't find transfusions erotic, I'm sorry. I'd like to see the Japanese take sex out of the emergency ward.'

'In Kyoto,' he said, 'we have a special strip show -three hours long. It is famous. Saul Bellow found it most interesting. Largely it is a lesbian show. For example, one girl will wear a mask – the special mask used in kabuki theatre. It is a fierce mask with a very long nose. Quite obviously this is a phallic symbol. The girl does not wear it on her face – she wears it down here, under the waist. Her partner leans back and she inserts this nose and pretends to have intercourse. The highpoint of the evening is, excuse me, the showing of the cunt. When this is done, everyone claps. But it is a wonderful show. I think you should see it sometime.'