Nigel Slater - Greenfeast

4th Estate

An imprint of HarperCollins Publishers 1 London Bridge Street London SE1 9GF www.4thEstate.co.uk

First published in Great Britain by 4th Estate in 2019

Text copyright © Nigel Slater 2019

All recipe photographs © Jonathan Lovekin 2019

Except p. 183 and p. 279 © Nigel Slater 2019

Brushstrokes copyright © Tom Kemp 2019

Nigel Slater asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work.

Design by David Pearson

Author photograph by Jenny Zarins

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins.

Source ISBN: 9780008213770

Ebook Edition © August 2019 ISBN: 9780008218171

Version: 2019-08-21

For James

Tom Kemp has had a couple of careers. He trained formally as a theoretical computer scientist and followed a sequence of post-doctoral research and programming posts. In parallel, he was learning to be an artist by studying the writings of ancient manuscripts, not their content but how they were made. In particular, he worked out the details of a Roman signwriting technique which has informed all his brushwork, both readable and abstract. This calligraphic training led to a deeper pursuit of writing in general and artworks in many media, including graffiti and digital work. Along the way he learned to make porcelain vessels on a potter’s wheel, an activity he describes as ‘calligraphy in 3D’, and these now form the large surfaces on which he continues to write.

tomkemp.com

Instagram @tom_kemp_

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Dedication

Tom Kemp

Introduction

Winter Basics

A BROWN VEGETABLE STOCK

OATS, DRIED MULBERRIES, DATE SYRUP

In a Pan

ARTICHOKES, BEANS, GREEN OLIVES

AUBERGINES, GINGER, TAMARIND

BRUSSELS SPROUTS, BROWN RICE, MISO

BURRATA, BEANS, TOMATOES

BUTTERNUT, BREADCRUMBS, CURRY POWDER

BUTTERNUT, FETA, EGGS

EGGS, EDAMAME, BEAN SPROUTS

FENNEL, PEAS, HALLOUMI

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, PISTACHIOS, GRAPES

MUSHROOMS, HUMMUS, HERBS

PARSLEY, PARMESAN, EGGS

PUMPKIN, ONIONS, ROSEMARY

RAINBOW CHARD, EGG, NOODLES

TOFU, RADISH, PONZU

On Toast

BEETROOT, APPLE, GOAT’S CURD

CRUMPETS, CREAM CHEESE, SPINACH

EGGS, SPINACH, BREAD

LEEKS, CAERPHILLY, MUSTARD

MUSHROOMS, BLUE CHEESE, TOASTING MUFFINS

NAAN, MOZZARELLA, TOMATOES

In the Oven

ARTICHOKES, WINTER ROOTS, SMOKED SALT

BRUSSELS SPROUTS, SMOKED MOZZARELLA, DILL

BUTTER BEANS, PEPPERS, AUBERGINES

CABBAGE, BERBERE SPICE, CRUMBS

CARROTS, SPICES, PANEER

CAULIFLOWER, ONIONS, BAY

CHEDDAR, TARRAGON, EGGS

CHEESE, THYME, GRAPES

CHICKPEAS, RADICCHIO, BUTTER BEANS

FENNEL, CREAM, PINE KERNELS

LENTILS, SWEET POTATO, TOMATOES

MUSHROOMS, CHICKPEAS, TAHINI

ONIONS, TALEGGIO, CREAM

PARSNIPS, SHALLOTS, GOAT’S CURD

PARSNIPS, SMOKED GARLIC, FETA

POTATOES, BRUSSELS SPROUTS

POTATOES, SWEET POTATOES, CREAM

POTATOES, TAHINI, THYME

POTATOES, TOMATOES, HORSERADISH

PUMPKIN, CHICKPEAS, ROSEMARY

PUMPKIN, COUSCOUS, DATE SYRUP

PUMPKIN, MUSTARD, CREAM

SWEET POTATO, JALAPEÑOS, BEANS

SWEET POTATOES, TOMATOES

On a Plate

APPLES, BLUE CHEESE, WALNUTS

BEETROOT, BLOOD ORANGE, WATERCRESS

MUSHROOMS, ORANGE, BREADCRUMBS

RED CABBAGE, CARROTS, SMOKED ALMONDS

With a Crust

FILO PASTRY, CHEESE, GREENS

LEEKS, PARSNIPS, PASTRY

LEEKS, TOMATO, PECORINO

SHALLOTS, APPLES, PARMESAN

SWEDE, MUSHROOM, GRUYÈRE, THYME

SWEET POTATO, PUFF PASTRY

With a Ladle

BEETROOT, LENTILS, GARAM MASALA

BEETROOT, SAUERKRAUT, DILL

BLACK-EYED BEANS, ROSEMARY, KALE

BRUSSELS TOPS, BLUE CHEESE

CELERIAC, HORSERADISH, PUMPERNICKEL

CHEDDAR, CIDER, MUSTARD

FENNEL, CUCUMBER, MINT

MUSHROOMS, BUTTERNUT, SOURED CREAM

NOODLES, LENTILS, SOURED CREAM

ORZO, SMOKED MOZZARELLA, THYME

TAHINI, SESAME, BUTTERNUT

On the Hob

AUBERGINE, TOMATO, COCONUT MILK

CARROTS, RICE, CORIANDER

FREGOLA, GREENS, PECORINO

GNOCCHI, PEAS, EGG YOLK

HARICOT BEANS, RICE, ONIONS

LENTILS, SWEDE, PAPRIKA

MILK, MUSHROOMS, RICE

MOGRABIA, TOMATOES, LABNEH

MUSHROOMS, SPINACH, RICE

ORECCHIETTE, CAULIFLOWER, CHEESE

PARSNIPS, CASHEWS, SPICES

PEARL BARLEY, KALE, GOAT’S CHEESE

POLENTA, GARLIC, MUSHROOMS

POLENTA, THYME, TALEGGIO

RICE, BROCCOLI, PAK CHOI

RICE, LEMON, LIME

SWEET POTATO, COCONUT MILK, CASHEWS

TAGLIATELLE, DILL, MUSHROOMS

TOMATO, CHILLIES, UDON

Pudding

APPLES, CINNAMON, PUFF PASTRY

APPLES, GINGER CAKE, CUSTARD

APPLES, OATS, CHOCOLATE

APPLES, PEARS, RYE

BANANAS, BUTTER, PUFF PASTRY

CHOCOLATE, DRIED FRUIT, PISTACHIOS

CHOCOLATE, DULCE DE LECHE, CANTUCCI

CHOCOLATE, ORANGE ZEST, CANDIED PEEL

DAMSON, ALMOND, SUNFLOWER SEEDS

GINGER CAKE, CARDAMOM, MAPLE SYRUP

HAZELNUTS, BLOOD ORANGES, RICOTTA

ICE CREAM, CHOCOLATE, SHERRY

CRANBERRY, MINCEMEAT, MERINGUE

PAPAYA, PASSION FRUIT, MINT

PEARS, RED WINE, PECORINO

PUDDING RICE, ROSEWATER, APRICOTS

SHERRY, BLOOD ORANGES, CREAM

RICE, MILK, FIG JAM

Index

Acknowledgements

A note on the brushstrokes

A note on the type

About the Author

Also by Nigel Slater

About the Publisher

Dinner is different in winter. The change starts late on a summer’s evening, when you first notice the soft, familiar scent of distant woodsmoke in the sudden chill of the evening air. Then, a day or two later, a damp, mushroomy mist hovers over the gardens and parks. Later, you notice the leaves have turned silently from yellow ochre to walnut. Autumn is here once again. You may sigh, rejoice or open a bottle. For many, this is the end of their year. For me, this is when it starts, when warmth, and bonhomie come to the fore. Energy returns.

With the change of weather, supper takes on a more significant role. We are suddenly hungry. Once the nights draw in, I am no longer satisfied by plates of milky burrata and slices of sweet, apricot-fleshed melon. No more am I content with a bowl of couscous with peaches, soft cheese and herbs for dinner. What I crave now is food that is both cosseting and warming, substantial and deeply satisfying. Food that nourishes but also sets me up for going back out in the cold and wet. And yet, I still find my diet is heavily plant-based with less emphasis on meat. It is simply the way it has progressed over the years and shows little sign of abating.