Udo Sonntag - A Journeyman's Journey - The Story of Jim McEwan

From Bowmore to Bruichladdich and around the world in between, Dad’s story reminds us of a time in whisky that no longer exists but crucially about a truth that we must never forget. Whisky is about people, it’s about community and the work is never done. There is a Bruce Springsteen song that Dad loves called ‘Working on a dream’. There could be no better metaphor for his journey, and like The Boss he continues to rock on.

Lynne, David, Lily and Beth.

It was a Friday when life decided to open the doors and send me off on my journey into the world. On that sunny Friday, 23 July 1948, life was obviously in a good mood and wanted to do something decent for me, of all people. Life sent me to the west of Scotland, where I was allowed to see the light of day on my beloved island of Islay. This legendary, historic and wonderful island is known and loved, far beyond the borders of Scotland, as the ‘Queen of the Hebrides’. There couldn’t have been a better place. It’s an island of perfect combinations: at a distance from the hustle and bustle of many a big city on the Scottish mainland, joined with a colourful and indescribably beautiful, primaeval nature, with all its many facets. I’d like to introduce you to Islay; I want you to be able to see a picture of it in your mind’s eye.

“You don’t choose the way you come into life and you don’t choose the way you leave. It’s the part in-between – that’s what it’s all about.”

Jim McEwan

Islay is part of the Inner Hebrides, situated to the west of the Kintyre Peninsula on the southwest of Scotland. It’s one of Scotland’s flagship islands, yet, only since the 13th century has it been regarded as Scottish. Before then, the island belonged to the feared Lord of the Isles, the terror of the seas in those far-off days. Perhaps the Ileach, as the people of Islay are called, still harbour some of his spirits? Who knows? The title ‘Lord of the Isles’ still officially exists today, but, thank God, he is no longer to be feared, for he resides in London; his name is Charles and his mother is the Queen.

The Paps of Jura.

To the north of Islay lies the almost deserted island of Jura. Although only about 300 people live there, you will find a whisky distillery in the village of Craighouse, beautifully framed by palm trees. The Inner Hebrides are particularly spoilt by nature, as the Gulf Stream flows along here and provides a special climate in which nature and plants can thrive. Admittedly, not every plant on earth, but a few more than you might think. The island of Jura can be recognised from afar by the three mighty and, at the same time, benign-looking peaks called the ‘Paps of Jura’: unwooded hills that also feature snow-covered white peaks in winter. Every spring, when the melt-water cascades down from the peaks, I yearn to climb all three to see Islay from this high vantage point.

About 20 miles further south, as the crow flies, lies Ireland. On sunny days, you can see it clearly from Islay’s south coast. Sometimes it even seems close enough to touch. The oldest officially mentioned and legalised distillery in the world, built in 1608, is situated in the north of the Ireland. Its only drawback? It’s not Scottish.

And just as far to the north as Ireland is to the south, is the neighbouring island of Isle of Mull, the hills of which can be seen from Islay on a clear day. You get exclusive views of this island world, if you are an intrepid walker of the lonely paths in the north of Islay. However, to the westernmost point of Islay, you’ll search in vain for any near neighbours, for the next landfall is the eastern seaboard of Canada. All along Islay’s west coast, you can experience the infinity of the Atlantic seascape and the freedom of that horizon. Those who claim that there is parochiality to island life have never stood on the rocks at Portnahaven and watched the sun go down, glowing red and silhouetting the seals. Those are unforgettable moments.

There are only two ways to get to Islay. You can either board a small, 32-seater aeroplane at Glasgow Airport, arriving at Islay Airport (‘Portadhair Ile’), some 35 minutes later, often more shaken than stirred. When booking the outward flight, I’d always recommend making sure you get a window seat on the starboard side. Whenever weather conditions permit, the pilots will approach the south coast, and if you direct your gaze downwards towards the Islay coast (and believe me, you will), three white warehouses with large black letters on their walls come into view. You can read three names that make the hearts of whisky connoisseurs beat faster: Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig. A minute or so later, you have solid (or should I say peaty) Islay soil under your feet.

The second means of travelling to the ‘Queen of Hebrides’ is by car. This involves driving one of the most beautiful routes in this part of Scotland. Leaving from Glasgow, passing the western shore of Loch Lomond, you’ll arrive at a wonderful castle hotel in Tarbet. At this point, the road to paradise begins. On increasingly narrow roads, you travel deeper into the Argyll landscape, passing dreamlike, seemingly untouched fjord landscapes, seeing beautiful, enchanted, abandoned bridges to the right and left of the road. In places, it’s an almost fairy-tale landscape.

And then there are the hills. You will eventually drive up and over a high road with the wonderful and highly appropriate name of the ‘Rest and Be Thankful’. If you’ve time to look around, you can understand why this place is so named. The views from the top are incredible. Inevitably, because there is only this one road, you’ll also drive past one of Scotland’s most beautiful castles at Inveraray. However, you will likely only be able to see it from the corner of your eye as you drive over the single-track road bridge. On arrival at Inveraray, take a short break and enjoy the flair of the harbour pier with Highland mountains in the background. Finally, your drive along this scenic route ends at a remote ferry port, south of the village of Tarbert, called Kennacraig. From there, boarding the CalMac ferry will take you farther west and during the two-hour crossing, your anticipation of what is ahead will grow by the minute. Finally, you have arrived and Islay, my island, welcomes you.

As you can see, Islay is not perhaps the easiest of places to get to, but I assure you, it’s worth it. Those who undertake this sometimes arduous journey will not regret it, because Islay has so much to offer. I hope you will allow me to show you around.

Jim in Bowmore harbour, not far from the distillery.

As you’re probably already aware, Islay is world famous for its single malt whiskies. This is principally due to the fact that nine of the world’s most famous and popular distilleries are located here. In alphabetical order, these are: Ardbeg, Ardnahoe, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Kilchoman, Lagavulin and Laphroaig. But, in addition to these icons of the whisky world, the island is home to a number of other spectacular sites. For example, in the south-east, away from the main roads, you will find an early example of the spread of Christianity across Europe: this consists of the well-preserved and beautiful ‘Kildalton Cross’, one of the finest examples still in existence, surrounded by the ruins of Kildalton church.