Peter Allison - How to Walk a Puma

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MORE THRILLING ADVENTURES WITH THE WORLD’S FAVOURITE SAFARI GUIDE
Plans are usually only good for one thing—laughing at in hindsight. So, armed with rudimentary Spanish, dangerous levels of curiosity and a record of poor judgement, I set off to tackle whatever South America could throw at me. Not content with regular encounters with dangerous animals on one continent, Peter Allison decided to get up close and personal with some seriously scary animals on another. Unlike in Africa, where all Peter’s experiences had been safari based, he planned to vary things up in South America, getting involved with conservation projects as well as seeking out “the wildest and rarest wildlife experiences on offer”. From learning to walk—or rather be bitten and dragged along at speed by—a puma in Bolivia, to searching for elusive jaguars in Brazil, finding love in Patagonia, and hunting naked with the remote Huaorani people in Ecuador,
is Peter’s fascinating and often hilarious account of his adventures and misadventures in South America.

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Right then and there, talking to Jane, I decided that complaining about bumps and bruises was fine, but that it was time to stop worrying about my age. In fact, if I’d learnt anything it was that getting older was great. I had enough experience to put what I’d learnt from life into practice, could laugh at myself more comfortably than ever before, and had as much fun as when I was a teen. It was ageing that was a bastard, but while my knees held out and my lungs drew air I would make sure to enjoy every moment I spent being beaten up by a half-wild puma, because it was so much better than being beaten down by a desk.

Dressed for a Kill

The next day was Micks last with Roy and he took the cord for the whole day - фото 5

The next day was Mick’s last with Roy, and he took the cord for the whole day. I filmed much of it, hoping to give him a memento of one of Roy’s jumps besides the light scarring on his mangled right knee. But Roy behaved like a kitten, not even attempting an attack, just trotting mellowly and politely along the trails, responding with affection whenever Mick drew close. (Roy, like all cats, showed he liked you by bumping his head against yours—not fun if it’s an English soccer fan, only marginally more so with a puma.)

At the end of the afternoon walk, Mick said goodbye to Roy, ending his heroically long six-week stint with him. Mick’s eyes were watery as he walked away, but I didn’t feel like even gently mocking him. In truth, I was perplexed by his apparent love for this ill-tempered animal.

I had loved many animals in the past, more than I could count, but apart from the benign contact of pets (none of them larger than Bunty the sheep) it had always been at a distance. I knew that the lions and elephants I’d observed daily in Botswana might kill me if I approached them, but they would never hurt you out of malice; they don’t recognise that we feel , so they can’t intentionally inflict pain or fear. In fact, it was their wildness that appealed to me. Roy was different—not a pet, but nor was he exactly wild. I couldn’t shake the feeling that his aggression was deliberate, vindictive even. Learning to enjoy it would not be easy.

With Mick gone, Adrian and I kept running with Roy, hoping a suitable candidate would soon appear to help us out. Meanwhile, with no one to give us a rest, we had to slog through day after day, a punishing ordeal, made worse by the foul mood Roy seemed to have fallen into since Mick left. He was jumping us at every hot zone, and quite often in areas outside them as well. Each morning Adrian and I would sit at breakfast shooting shifty glances at the clock that seemed to be moving too fast towards the hour when we would have to face the walk to Roy’s cage, braced for violence and pain. One day Roy bit me a record four times, and made another six attempts I was able to block, making me seriously wonder why I ever signed up for this. The notion of doing good seemed faint, and I wondered whether all those who’d called me a fool might not be correct.

‘This place sucks,’ said Jodie, an American girl who worked in the monkey quarantine area, across the lunch table one day. ‘They have too many animals, and hardly any get released. It sucks,’ she said again, taking an aggressive drag of her cigarette.

Characteristically, even though she was giving voice to some of my own feelings, as soon as I heard them I felt the need to argue.

‘It does if you think that the sole aim is to release animals,’ I replied. ‘But most injured wild animals die. And most of the ones brought here to Inti have injuries too severe for the animal to ever be released again, or they have no habitat to return to. If they’re not going to be locked in a cage or euthanased, giving them the best possible life they can have is the only option.’

Jodie nodded, reluctantly agreeing, and I continued on enthusiastically, inspiring myself. ‘If at the end of the day you can believe that one animal’s life is better, even if just for that day, because of what you have done, then why not be happy with that?’

She nodded again, and so did I, having managed to convince myself as much as her. We both knew that Inti would never refuse an animal care, and that we were doing everything we could for every one. Roy wasn’t to blame for the way he behaved. Inti Wara Yassi couldn’t afford trainers for the animals; their only aim was for Roy, the monkeys, Baloo the bear, the birds and the nasty small animals to be as wild as they could be given that they couldn’t be wild. It was flawed, but noble.

‘Bloody hell,’ I thought suddenly, ‘flawed but noble pretty much describes Roy too.’

This epiphany made me feel renewed somewhat, and that afternoon I approached Roy with a different attitude. It wasn’t his fault that his mother had been killed, and I couldn’t blame him for wanting to be wild and puma-like. I should embrace it, embrace it all—the charging, the bites, the rolling around to gain more rope so he could jump me, and the awkward moments when he stared into my eyes while defecating. Roy’s behaviour often felt malicious to me, but I knew better, knew enough not to anthropomorphise him, knew enough now to appreciate him as a puma. I just had to try to remember this each time he latched onto my leg.

The afternoon’s walk went well, with only a few half-hearted jump attempts. It was most likely a coincidence, but I felt as though Roy and I had made a breakthrough.

Things seemed to be looking up even more when Adrian and I were granted a trainee. Once we’d trained the new Roy Boy—which would take at least four days—we could start having the occasional day off. My mood was heading towards buoyant. With a day’s break I might just make it through the remaining two weeks of my stay.

That night there was a party for the volunteers, and I let myself go more than a little with a nasty local brew called Singani, made primarily of cane sugar and Satan’s urine (at least that was the theory I developed in my throbbing head the next day).

I hoped it was just my alcohol-addled ears deceiving me when I heard what sounded like an auction starting, but next thing I knew the item being bid for was me.

‘Wha …?’ I said eloquently.

Bondy, who was acting as auctioneer, kindly explained: the Roy Boys’ services were for sale to the other volunteers. Being stupid or macho enough to volunteer to run with Roy made us the perfect victims. The money raised would be put towards caring for the animals.

I mumbled something about my discomfort at being sold as a slave when I already suffered daily indignities at the paws of Roy and the trail itself, but had no real recourse.

The bids climbed, admittedly at the pace of a sloth, and I watched nervously as a Swiss girl of volatile temperament took the lead. She was predatory in her approach to men, and possibly had teeth in intriguing places, and I was worried that she might not accept there were some things I wouldn’t do, even for charity.

To my enormous relief a coalition formed to challenge her bid, and I was ultimately sold to a group of four girls, who immediately set about devising their plan for me in the twenty-four-hour period I would be their slave.

Adrian was also sold, and I watched his face deflate like a balloon when the Swiss girl made the winning bid.

‘Bad luck, mate,’ I consoled. ‘Can’t imagine the demands I get will be as bad as yours.’

First up for me during my twenty-four hours of slavery was cooking dinner, something I thought might well be more hazardous for the girls than for me as the only thing worse than my cooking ability was the choice of local ingredients. I had some desultory-looking vegetables, a disturbingly yellow-fleshed chicken, some curry powder and oil that looked less like that from an olive and more like that from an engine. Massages were also ordered and performed.

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