Эйда Кэлхун - Библия моды

4. Myra Walker, “Miniskirt,” in A – Z of Fashion.

5. Ibid.

6. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 908–909.

7. Ralph Graves, ed., “The Midi Muscles In,” Life, August 21, 1970.

8. Valerie Steele, Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, vol. 2 (Farmington Hills, MI: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 2005), 9.

9. Andrew Bolton, Bravehearts: Men in Skirts (London: V&A Publications, 2003), 26–27.

1. www.iceman.it.

2. James Laver, Costume (New York: Hawthorn Books, 1964), 2.

3. Ibid.

4. Valerie Cumming, C. W. Cunnington, and P. E. Cunnington, The Dictionary of Fashion History (Oxford: Berg, 2010), 11.

5. Berg Fashion Library, image of embroidered canvas suspenders, 1840.

1. Ester Juhasz, “Jewish Dress in Central and Southwest Asia and the Diaspora,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 5, Central and Southwest Asia.

2. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 97.

3. Ibid., 76 (image).

4. Ibid., 79.

5. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 15.

6. Ibid., 16–17.

1. Jean-Louis Dumas-Hermès, How to Wear Your Hermès Scarf (Paris: Editions Hermès, 1986), 1.

2. Nadine Coleno, The Hermès Scarf: History and Mystique (London: Thames & Hudson, 2009), 29.

3. Andrew Baseman, ed., The Scarf (New York: Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 1989), 50.

4. Coleno, The Hermès Scarf, 18.

5. Baseman, The Scarf, 50.

6. Jan Glier Reeder, High Style: Masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010), 198.

7. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 22.

8. Simon Doonan, “Bring Back Nancy Red!” The New York Observer, January 8, 2001, www.observer.com/2001/01/bring-back-nancy-red/.

9. Nina Lalli, “Checkered Past: Arafat’s Trademark Scarf Is Now Military Chic,” Village Voice, February 15, 2005, www.villagevoice.com/2005–02–15/nyc-life/checkered-past/.

10. Anna König, “Neckties and Neckwear,” in A – Z of Fashion.

11. Ibid.

12. Avril Hart, Ties (New York: Costume & Fashion Press, 1998), 68.

13. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 9.

1. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 54.

2. Valerie Cumming, C. W. Cunnington, and P. E. Cunnington, The Dictionary of Fashion History (Oxford: Berg, 2010), 218.

3. Memoirs and Interesting Adventures of an Embroidered Waistcoat (London: printed for and sold by J. Brooke, at the Golden Head, under St. Dunstan’s Church, Fleet-Street, 1751), 12.

4. Ibid., 13.

5. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 907–908.

1. Ian Kelly, Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style (New York: Free Press, 2006), 5.

2. Colleen Gau, “Conventional Work Dress and Casual Work Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.

3. Bernhard Roetzel, Gentlemen (Cambridge: Könemann, 2004), 92–93.

4. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 113.

5. Ibid., 114–115.

6. Ibid., 115.

7. Nik Cohn, Today There Are No Gentlemen: The Changes in Englishmen’s Clothes Since the War (London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1971), 29–30.

8. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 896.

9. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 20–21.

10. Colleen R. Callahan, “Children’s Clothing,” in A – Z of Fashion.

11. Women’s Wear Daily, “Moment 11: Women Embrace Menswear,” November 1, 2010, www.wwd.com/eye/fashion/moment-11-women-embrace-menswear-3344600?navSection=issues.

12. Melissa Leventon, What People Wore When: A Complete Illustrated History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2008), 154–155.

1. By the aptly named designer Amy Sly, www.buzzfeed.com/sly/am-i-wearing-pants.

2. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 15.

3. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 64–65.

4. Rosalie Kolodny, Fashion Design for Moderns (New York: Fairchild, 1968), 103.

5. Judith Thurman, “Closet Encounters: Charting the Rise of the Fashionable American Woman,” The New Yorker (May 10, 2010), www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/artworld/2010/05/10/100510craw_artworld_thurman.

6. Joseph H. Hancock II and Edward Augustyn, “Pants, Trousers,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 10, Global Perspectives.

7. Key Moments in Fashion: From Haute Couture to Streetwear, Key Collections, Major Figures and Crucial Moments That Changed the Course of Fashion History from 1890 to the 1990s (London: Hamlyn, 1998), 101.

8. Shaun Cole, “Lesbian and Gay Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 8, West Europe.

1. Nan H. Mutnick, “Snapshot: Hosiery,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.

2. Ibid.

3. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 927.

4. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 58.

5. Anne L. Macdonald, No Idle Hands: The Social History of American Knitting (New York: Ballantine Books, 1988), 3.

6. American Red Cross. The War-Time Manual: Describing the Organization, History, Works and Reliefs of the American Red Cross Society (Chicago: Service Publishers, 1917), 66.

7. Nan H. Mutnick, “Snapshot: Hosiery.”

8. http://ask.metafilter.com/15115/What-color-socks-should-I-wear-with-brown-shoes-and-blue-jeans.

1. Andrew Bolton, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011). Three examples: Eclect Dissect (autumn/winter, 1997–1998), red and black leather; La Dame Bleue (spring/summer, 2008), carved wood, leather, and silver beading; precollection (autumn/winter, 2006–2007) red silk embroidered with black and white silk thread.

2. Jan Glier Reeder, High Style: Masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010), 227.

3. Illuminating Fashion, exhibit at the Pierpont Morgan Library.

4. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 37.

5. Ibid.