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13. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 249.

14. Naomi E. A. Tarrant, “England,” in Berg Encyclopedia, vol. 8, West Europe.

15. Elizabeth Hawes, It’s Still Spinach (Boston: Little, Brown, 1954), 137.

16. Phyllis G. Tortora, “Types and Properties of Fashionable Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.

17. Susan M. Watkins, “Fashion, Health, and Disease,” in A – Z of Fashion, quoting Bernard W. H. Rudofsky, Are Clothes Modern?

18. Tarrant, “England.”

19. Mireille M. Lee, “Ancient Greek Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia, vol. 9, East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus.

20. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 50.

21. Ibid., 58.

22. Rodney Bennett-England, Dress Optional: The Revolution in Menswear (London: Peter Owen, 1967), 40.

23. Ibid.

24. Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta and Phyllis Tortora, eds., The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion, 3rd ed. (New York: Fairchild Publications, 2003), 462.

25. Jan Glier Reeder, High Style: Masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010), 197.

1. www.scribd.com/doc/33873413/1892-Dr-Jaeger-s-Sanitary-Woolen-System-Company-Catalogue.

2. Alice Harris, The White T (New York: HarperCollins, 1996), 16.

3. Dennita Sewell, “T-Shirt,” in A – Z of Fashion.

4. Ed Branigan, “The Evolution of Garment Printing,” SGIA Journal (second quarter, 2010), 24.

5. Sewell, “T-Shirt.”

6. Branigan, “The Evolution of Garment Printing,” 24.

7. Harris, The White T, 20.

8. Sewell, “T-Shirt.”

9. Branigan, “The Evolution of Garment Printing,” 25.

10. Harris, The White T, 34–35, photo.

11. Harris, The White T, 47, photo.

12. Tommy Hilfiger, All-American (New York: Universe, 1997), 60.

13. Branigan, “The Evolution of Garment Printing,” 25.

14. www.sojones.com/news/1465-the-most-famous-statement-t-shirts/.

15. Amber Easby and Henry Oliver, The Art of the Band T-Shirt (New York: Gallery, 2007), 3.

16. Ibid.

17. Ibid., 33.

18. Kendra Nordin, “Smiley Face: How an In-House Campaign Became a Global Icon,” The Christian Science Monitor, October 4, 2006, 1, www.csmonitor.com/2006/1004/p15s01-algn.html.

19. Charlotte Brunel, The T-Shirt Book, foreword by Bruno Collin (New York: Assouline, 2002), 14.

20. Imani Perry, “‘Malcolm X,’ by Manning Marable,” San Francisco Chronicle (April 24, 2011), www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/04/23/RV611J2B0B.DTL.

21. Harris, The White T, 13.

22. Michiko Kakutani, “Brand Che: Revolutionary as Marketer’s Dream,” The New York Times, April 20, 2009, www.nytimes.com/2009/04/21/books/21kaku.html?scp=1sq=&st=nyt.

23. Ibid.

24. www.condenaststore.com/-sp/Che-Guevara-wearing-a-Bart-Simpson-T-shirt-New-Yorker-Cartoon-Prints_i8544414_.htm.

25. Brunel, The T-Shirt Book, 9.

1. James Sullivan, Jeans: The Cultural History of an American Icon (New York: Gotham Books, 2006), 14.

2. Clare Sauro, “Jeans,” in A – Z of Fashion.

3. Ibid.

4. http://blog.urbanoutfitters.com/features/the_levis_archives?cm_mmc=broadcast-_-Q32010-_-100812levisBuyers-_-banner&cm_lm=ashleyelizabethk@gmail.com.

5. Robert Selbie, The Anatomy of Costume (New York: Crescent Books, 1977), 4.

6. Sullivan, Jeans, 13.

7. Carl Sandburg, Abraham Lincoln: The Prairie Years and the War Years, ed. Edward C. Goodman (Boston: Mariner Books, 2002), 27.

8. www.forbes.com/2005/11/29/most-expensive-jeans-cx_sy_1130feat_ls.html.

1. Phyllis Tortora, “Toga” in A – Z of Fashion.

2. Robert Selbie, The Anatomy of Costume (New York: Crescent Books, 1977), 18.

3. Ibid., 14.

4. www.stanford.edu/~plomio/history.html.

5. François Boucher, 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment, expanded ed. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1987), 303.

6. Patricia A. Cunningham, “Dress Reform,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.

7. Rebecca Arnold, “Madeleine Vionnet,” in A – Z of Fashion.

8. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 124.

9. Hal Vaughan, Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War (New York: Knopf, 2011), 142.

10. Liz Mellish, “Early History of Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 9, East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus.

11. Gillian Tineke Vogelsang-Eastwood Rooijakkers, “Egypt: Historical Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 1, Africa.

12. Ibid.

13. Ibid.

14. James Laver, Costume (London: Cassell, 1963), 7.

15. Ibid., 32.

16. Ibid., 36.

17. Ibid., 45.

18. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 97.

19. Ibid., 97.

20. Melissa Leventon, What People Wore When: A Complete Illustrated History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2008), 154–155.

21. Boucher, 20,000 Years of Fashion, 251.

22. Ibid., 291.

23. Laver, Costume and Fashion, 130.

24. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 64.

25. Ibid., 69.

26. Laver, Costume and Fashion, 184–186.

27. Key Moments in Fashion: From Haute Couture to Streetwear, Key Collections, Major Figures and Crucial Moments That Changed the Course of Fashion History from 1890 to the 1990s (London: Hamlyn, 1998), 15.

28. Anne Stegemeyer, Who’s Who in Fashion, 2nd ed. (New York: Fairchild Publications, 1988), 5.

29. Ibid., 32.

30. “Carmen Says: A Couture Veteran Discusses the Way Things Were, Are, and May Never Be Again,” Garmento, Issue 1 (2010), 45.

31. GeoffreyBeane.com.

32. Jane Eastoe and Sarah Gristwood, Fabulous Frocks (London: Pavilion, 2008), 6–7.

33. Judith Watt, ed., The Penguin Book of Twentieth-Century Fashion Writing (New York: Viking, 1999), 175.

34. Arnold Scaasi, Women I Have Dressed (and Undressed!) (New York: Scribner, 2004), 111–112.

35. Caroline Evans, Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness (New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2003), 71.

36. Urmee Khan, “Liz Hurley ‘Safety Pin’ Dress Voted the Greatest Dress,” The Telegraph (October 9, 2008), www.telegraph.co.uk/news/celebritynews/3167702/LizHurley-safety-pin-dress-voted-the-greatest-dress.html.

37. Georgina O’Hara, The Encyclopedia of Fashion (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1986), 32.

1. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 45.

2. Ibid., 46.

3. Joseph H. Hancock II and Edward Augustyn, “Pants, Trousers,” In Berg Encyclopedia, vol. 10, Global Perspectives.

4. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 113.

5. Ibid., 121.

1. Paul Poiret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret, trans. Stephen Haden Guest (London: V&A Publishing, 2009), 36.

2. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 37.

3. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until ToDay (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 49–50, 55.