Pierre-Joseph Buc'hoz: The Toilet of Flora

The chief Intention of this Performance is to point out, and explain to the Fair Sex, the Methods by which they may preserve and add to their Charms; and by which many natural Blemishes and Imperfections may be remedied or concealed. The same Share of Grace and Attractions is not possessed by all of them; but while the Improvement of their Persons is the indispensable Duty of those who have been little favoured by Nature, it should not be neglected even by the few who have received the largest Proportion of her Gifts. The same Art which will communicate to the former the Power of pleasing, will enable the latter to extend the Empire of their Beauty. It is possible to remove, or, at least, to cover the Defects of the one Class, and to give Force and Lustre to the Perfections of the other.

The Author, however, though in general he has framed his Work for the Advantage of the Ladies, has not entirely confined it to them. The Virtues of Plants and Vegetables, beside the Service they furnish for the Toilet, have their Use in Articles of Luxury. He has thence been induced to address himself also to the Perfumer: and his Publication, he flatters himself, while it comprizes a very perfect Collection of the Methods which tend to improve Beauty, to repair the Wastes of Fatigue, and to avert the Marks of Age or Decline, includes likewise a full Account of whatever relates to domestic Oeconomy and Expence.

Uncommon Pains have been taken to improve the present Edition, which contains a System of the Cosmetic Art, infinitely superior to any that has hitherto appeared; and it has likewise uniformly rendered the various Prescriptions not only compatible with, but subservient to, the Preservation, and even the Improvement of Health; an Object of the greatest Importance in a Work of this Kind.

Boil, for the space of two or three minutes, in a sufficient quantity of river-water, one or more of the following plants; viz. Laurel, Thyme, Rosemary, Wild Thyme, Sweet-Marjoram, Bastard-Marjoram, Lavender, Southernwood, Wormwood, Sage, Pennyroyal, Sweet-Basil Balm, Wild Mint, Hyssop, Clove-july-flowers, Anise, Fennel, or any other herbs that have an agreeable scent. Having strained off the liquor from the herbs, add to it a little Brandy, or camphorated Spirits of Wine.

This is an excellent bath to strengthen the limbs; it removes pains proceeding from cold, and promotes perspiration.

Take two pounds of Barley or Bean-meal, eight pounds of Bran, and a few handfuls of Borrage Leaves. Boil these ingredients in a sufficient quantity of spring water. Nothing cleanses and softens the skin like this bath.

Boil, in water, a pound of Bran, with a few Marsh-mallow Roots, and two or three handfuls of Mallow Leaves.

Take four handfuls of Pennyroyal, Sage, and Rosemary, three handfuls of Angelica, and four ounces of Juniper Berries; boil these ingredients in a sufficient quantity of water, and strain off the liquor for use.

Scrape fine twelve Scorzonera and Goatsbread Roots; simmer them over a gentle fire in three quarts of Lisbon or French White Wine, in a vessel closely covered, to prevent the too great evaporation of the vinous spirit. When the roots are sufficiently boiled, strain off the liquor through a linen strainer with a gentle pressure: then add to it the Juice of twelve Lemons, with Cloves, Ginger, Cardamom Seeds, and Aloes Wood, grossly powdered, of each half an ounce; and about one ounce of each of the following herbs, viz. fresh Leaves of Rue, Elder, Bramble, and Sage; boil all together over a gentle fire, till one quart is wasted away; strain the liquor off immediately through a strong linen bag, and keep it in an earthen or glass vessel close stopped. Drink every morning fasting, for nine days together, half a pint of this Balsam, by which means you will be able to resist the malignancy of the Atmosphere, though you even visit infected persons. The same end may be promoted by washing the mouth and nostrils with Vinegar; and by holding to the nose a bit of Camphire, slightly wrapped in muslin; or by frequently chewing a piece of Gum Myrrh.

Take a pound of levigated Hartshorn, two pounds of Rice Powder, half a pound of Ceruss, Powder of dried Bones, Frankincense, Gum Mastic, and Gum Arabic, of each two ounces. Dissolve the whole in a sufficient quantity of Rose-water, and wash the face with this fluid.

Boil, in two quarts of Rose-water, an ounce of Storax, and two ounces of Gum Benjamin; to which add, tied up in a piece of gauze or thin muslin, six Cloves bruised, half a drachm of Labdanum, as much Calamus Aromaticus, and a little Lemon-peel. Cover the vessel up close, and keep the ingredients boiling a great while: strain off the liquor without strong pressure, and let it stand till it deposit the sediment, which keep for use in a box.

Take Marechal Powder, and make it into a paste with Mucilage of Gum Tragacanth and Arabic, prepared with All-flower-water (the receipt for which is contained in this book.) The mould into which it is put must be rubbed with a little Essence of Jassmine, or of any other sweet-scented herb, to prevent the Paste from sticking. This Paste in colour resembles Coffee.

Take Roots of a Maiden Vine, Roots of Hemp, and Cores of soft Cabbages, of each two handfuls; dry and burn them; afterwards make a lye with the ashes. The head is to be washed with this lye three days successively, the part having been previously well rubbed with Honey.

Take Polypody of the Oak, cut into very small pieces; put them into a glass vessel, and pour on them as much Lisbon, or French White Wine, as will rise about an inch above the ingredients: digest in balneo Mariæ (or a bath of hot water) for twenty-four hours; then distil off the liquor by the heat of boiling water, till the whole has come over the helm. A linen cloth wetted with this fluid, may be applied to the part on which the hair grows, and kept on it all night; repeating the application periodically till the hair falls off.

The distilled water of the Leaves and Roots of Celandine, applied in the same manner, has the like effect.

Powder your head with powdered Parsley Seed, at night, once in three or four months, and the hair will never fall off.

Dip the teeth of your comb every morning in the expressed Juice of Nettles, and comb the hair the wrong way. This expedient will surprisingly quicken the growth of the hair.

Some, after having shaved the head, foment it with a decoction of Wormwood, Southernwood, Sage, Betony, Vervain, Marjoram, Myrtle, Roses, Dill, Rosemary, or Misletoe.

Take half a pound of green Southernwood bruised, boil it in a pint and a half of Sweet Oil, and half a pint of Red Wine; when sufficiently boiled, remove it from the fire, and strain off the liquor through a linen bag: repeat this operation three times with fresh Southernwood. The last time add to the strained liquor two ounces of Bears-grease.