Albert Robida - Yester-year; ten centuries of toilette from the French of A. Robida

Où donc es-tu, riche bliaut Armorié sur chaque maille, Et le peliçon d'Isabeau ? EscofRon de haute taille Pour qui l'on vit mainte chamaille, Hennin qui charma Buridan ? Hélas, ce n'est plus qu'antiquaille— Mais où sont les modes d'antan 1

Oil est la fraise de Margot, Et le surcot doublé d'hermine, Oil sont les manches à gigot ? Habit cavalier d'héroïne Que portait Reine ou baladine. Large panier pompadourant, Et toi-même aussi, crinoline — Mais où sont les modes d'antan !

Envoi.

Dame, il ne fut point de semaine Depuis le temps d'Eve pourtant Qui n'eût caprices par trentaine. Mais où sont les modes d'antan !

NOTES.

Head-gear, etc. See p. 168.

The following lines bear witness, among other matters, to the height of the head-gear in England at this time.

"The buckle then its modest limits knew, Now, like the ocean, dreadful to the view, Hath broke its bounds, and swallowed up the shoe : The wearer's foot, like his once fine estate, Is almost lost, the encumbrance is so great. Ladies may smile—are they not in the plot 1 The bounds of nature have not they forgot ? Were thej'- design'd to be, when jîut together. Made up, like shuttlecocks, of cork and feather ? Their pale-faced grandmammas appeared with grace When dawning blushes rose upon the face ; No blushes now their once-loved station seek ; The foe is in possession of the cheek ! No heads of old, too high in feather'd state, Hinder'd the fair to pass the lowest gate ; A church to enter now, they must be bent, If ever they should try the experiment."

Prologue to Sheridan's Trip to Scarhorwuyh, acted in 1777.

Cadogan. See p. 179.

For the Cadogan (said to be derived from the first Earl of Cadogan, who died in 1726), see Murray s Dictionary. The following quotation is given from Memoirs of Baroness D'Oberkirch,vo\.. ii. chap. ix.—" The Duchess of Bourbon had introduced at the Court of Montbéliard [the fashion] of Cadogans, hitherto worn only by gentlemen." It was a mode of plaiting and looping the hair behind, and has been revived of late years in Paris.

Guillotine. See p. 203.

The guillotine at this time was canonized as " La Sainte Guillotine," and worn on necklaces in place of the cross.

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