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Paul Morand: The Allure of Chanel

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Paul Morand The Allure of Chanel

The Allure of Chanel: краткое содержание, описание и аннотация

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Coco Chanel invited Paul Morand to visit her in St Moritz at the end of the Second World War when he was given the opportunity to write her memoirs; his notes of their conversations were put away in a drawer and only came to light one year after Chanel's death. Through Morand's transcription of their conversations, Chanel tells us about her friendship with Misia Sert, the men in her life - Boy Capel, the Duke of Westminster, artists such as Diaghilev, her philosophy of fashion and the story behind the legendary Number 5 perfume...The memories of Chanel told in her own words provide vivid sketches and portray the strength of Coco's character, leaving us with an extraordinary insight into Chanel the woman and the woman who created Chanel. Pushkin Collection editions feature a spare, elegant series style and superior, durable components. The Collection is typeset in Monotype Baskerville, litho-printed on Munken Premium White Paper and notch-bound by the independently owned printer TJ International in Padstow. The covers, with French flaps, are printed on Colorplan Pristine White Paper. Both paper and cover board are acid-free and Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified.

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I threw my arms around my father’s neck. “Take me away from here!” “Now, now, my dear Coco, everything will be all right, I’ll be back, I’ll take you with me, we’ll have a home again …” Those were his last words. He didn’t come back. I never lived under my father’s roof again. He occasionally wrote and told me to trust him and said that his business was doing well. And then that was all: we never heard another word from him.

At the time, I often used to think about dying; the idea of causing a great fuss, of upsetting my aunts, of letting everyone know how wicked they were, fascinated me. I dreamt about setting fire to the barn. They kept on telling me that on my father’s side I came from a family of nobodies. “You wouldn’t hold your head so high if you knew that your grandmother was a shepherdess,” they used to say. In which they were mistaken, for I found it delightful to have a granny with a crook, putting sheep adorned with ribbons out to graze. (Up until the day not long ago when, during the Occupation, I was with my aunt, Adrienne de Nexon, my grandparents’ daughter, who was obliged to provide proof of her ancestry; we discovered that this shameful side of my family, in spite of the shepherdess, was better than the other side.)

I behaved properly in front of strangers. The local people used to say: “Little Coco has good manners”. I was well brought up, like a dog that has been well trained. I kept my fits of madness to myself, except for one occasion when I slid down the banisters and landed in the middle of the drawing room, among the guests. If I was given a five-franc coin, I would squander it on presents. “You’ll end up poor,” my aunts kept on saying.

Another aunt of mine, my father’s sister, who was much younger than the others and was beautiful, with long hair, would sometimes come to the house.

“We’re going to take tea,” I would say.

“Tea? Where have you heard about taking tea?” asked the other aunts.

“In the fashion magazines. In Paris, they take tea; whether you like it or not, that’s what happens. There’s a whole ceremony. You place the teapot beneath a ‘cosy’; that’s what it’s called. You invite your friends; you serve them from an embroidered table mat.”

“Coco, you’re crazy!”

“I want tea.”

“There isn’t any.”

“The chemist has some.”

When I got my tea, my Aunt Adrienne said:

“Let’s play at being ladies. Strong or weak?”

“I don’t want to.”

“Ladies don’t say ‘I don’t want to’.”

“What do you mean by ladies?”

“Those in ‘aristocratic circles’.”

“Who will take us there?”

We drained our cups. I ventured to ask my Aunt Adrienne:

“Apart from ladies, who goes to tea parties?”

“Elegant men, those who do nothing; they are far more handsome than those who work.”

“Don’t they do anything?”

“You should see them … They do lots of things.”

“Adrienne, leave the child alone; you’ll bewilder her.”

My aunts owned some grazing land, for they had a little property; fields of close-cropped grass, which were poor for producing milk, but very much enjoyed by horses. They bred horses, in the most basic sort of way, which meant allowing the animals to graze freely. They sold their best products to the army (who, then, spoke about the infantry!). Untameable, like our chickens, I ran all over our farm buildings with the little peasant children. I mounted our horses bare-back (at sixteen, I had never seen a saddle), I caught hold of our best animals (or occasionally other people’s, as I fancied) by their manes or their tails. I stole all the carrots from the house to feed them. How I loved it when the handsome soldiers did their rounds, and the visits of the cavalry officers who came to see our herd. Fine hussars or chasseurs, with sky-blue dolmans and black frogging, and their pelisses on their shoulders. They came every year in their beautifully harnessed phaetons; they looked in the horses’ mouths to see how old they were, stroked their fetlocks to check that they weren’t inflamed, and slapped their flanks; it was a great party; a party that for me was fraught with a degree of anxiety: supposing they were going to take my favourite horses away from me? But they didn’t choose them; they were careful not to, for I had made them gallop so much on hard and flinty ground while they were unshod and in the fields, that their feet had been affected. I can still see the officer coming into our house, after the inspection, and warming himself by the kitchen hearth: “These horses have hooves like cattle, their soles have gone and their frogs are rotten!” he said, referring to our best-looking creatures. I no longer dared to look the officer in the eye, but he had seen through me; as soon as my aunts had turned away, he whispered in a low voice: “So you’ve been galloping without shoes, eh, you little rascal?”

It’s not that I love horses. I’ve never been like the ‘horsey folk’ who groom them and comb them for fun, or like the Englishwomen who, as soon as they have a spare moment, spend it in the stable.

Yet it is nevertheless true that horses have influenced the course of my life.

This is how:

It so happened that my aunts had sent me to spend the summer at Vichy, with my grandfather, who was taking the waters. I was so glad to have escaped from Mont-Dore, from the gloomy house, from needlework, from my trousseau; embroidering initials on the towels for my future household, and sewing crosses in Russian stitching on my nightdresses, for a hypothetical wedding night, made me feel ill; in a fury, I spat on my trousseau. I was sixteen. I was becoming pretty. I had a face that was as plump as a fist, hidden in a vast swathe of black hair that reached the ground. Vichy! How wonderful after Mont-Dore! I was no longer under the eye of my aunts; how much I preferred the patriarchal supervision of my grandparents! I walked outside on my own all day long, I strode out ahead of me, nose in the air. Away from my chestnut groves, Vichy was a fairyland. A ghastly fairyland in reality, but wonderful to fresh eyes. At last I could see at close hand those ‘bathers’ whom we did not dare look at behind Persian blinds in Thiers; we were forbidden to look at those ‘eccentrics’, the women who wore tartan dresses. In Vichy, I could satisfy my hunger. I found myself in the heart of the citadel of extravagance. Cosmopolitan society is like taking a journey without moving: Vichy was my first journey. Vichy would teach me about life. Young girls know everything today; as for us, we knew nothing, nothing, nothing. I don’t regret it.

FROM COMPIÈGNE TO PAU

IN VICHY, I WATCHED THE LADIES—the old ladies—pass by, for there were only old people there. (In 1910, the young didn’t drink alcohol and didn’t look after their livers.) But I did not admit my disappointment. Everything enchanted me, even the engraved glasses used to drink water from the springs. Everywhere, ‘foreign’ was being spoken; foreign languages fascinated me; it was as if they were the passwords of a great secret society.

I watched the eccentric people parade past and I said to myself: “There exist in the world things that I should be and which I am not.” I would become one of them, and much sooner than I thought. At a tea party I was taken to by my relatives, I made the acquaintance of a young man, M B; he owned a racing stable.

“How lucky you are,” I said with naive enthusiasm, “to have racehorses!”

“Would you like to come to a training session, Mademoiselle?”

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