Paul Morand: The Allure of Chanel

Paul Morand first met Gabrielle Chanel through Misia Sert in 1921, as he describes in typically limpid style in his preface to this book. They were both stars of their generation: she, the undisputed queen of fashion; he, a young diplomat and the author of such acclaimed books as Tendres stocks (a collection of stories with its preface by Marcel Proust) and the novel, Hecate and Her Dogs . Cosmopolitan, refined, effortlessly accomplished, Morand reflected a certain idea of Third Republic France, one that would vanish forever with the disaster of the German occupation. “Everywhere I go, they are switching out the lights,” he once remarked to Michel Déon.

Morand, who was an admirer of English traditions and literature, and who had many friends in England, had been working in the French embassy in London from 1939 to July 1940 as ‘chief of the blockade commission’. Influenced possibly by his Germanophile and anti-Semitic Roumanian-born wife Hélène, he made the fateful decision to return to France in July 1940 and to support the ‘wait and see’ government of Maréchal Pétain. In 1943 he was appointed Minister in Bucharest, and in 1944 ‘Plenipotentiary Minister’ in Berne. It was in Switzerland, along with many another political exiles, that he was obliged to take refuge after the war, and it was from his home in Vevey in 1946 or 1947, impoverished and vilified by much of the French literary establishment,12 that he was invited by Coco Chanel to visit her in St Moritz and offered the opportunity to write her memoirs. We do not know what Mademoiselle Chanel thought of her friend’s efforts, or indeed whether Chanel ever read his manuscript—it was put away in a drawer and only came to light again, after Chanel’s death, in 1975. L’Allure de Chanel was finally published in Paris in 1976, the same year that Paul Morand died, and, for the first time, readers were at last given some insight into the woman Chanel really was. Just occasionally in these selective, acid-tongued memoirs, the mask drops, and we glimpse the true face of the fragile, lonely creature who revolutionised the way women dress and who became one of the twentieth century’s great monstres sacrés .

In her biography of Paul Morand, published in 1994, Ginette Guitard-Auviste quotes from a letter Morand sent to her in response to a question she had asked about Chanel. “Chanel is France’s greatest figure,” he wrote from Vevey on 1st May 1964. “Despite her age, she sparkles; she is the only volcano in the Auvergne that is not extinct… the most brilliant, the most impetuous, the most brilliantly insufferable woman there ever was.”

EUAN CAMERON

11 Michel Déon Pages françaises (Gallimard 1999)

12 Morand’s candidature to the Académie Française was effectively vetoed by de Gaulle in 1958; he was finally elected and presumably ‘forgiven’ in 1968.