Aleksandar Hemon: Best European Fiction 2013

I moved over to the Blues section and before long found a CD by Mississippi John Hurt that got me excited; he was playing the electric guitar and singing songs by Neil Young. The evening sun shone in through the large window at the front of the shop and there was a bluish radiance inside, though no lights were on. The girl was still standing by the counter, gazing absentmindedly into the evening light.

“I’d like to listen to this one.”

“Of course.”

She went round the back and re-emerged with a machine that I took at first for some kind of vacuum cleaner. It reminded me rather of one of the old cylindrical Hoovers; silver like them, with a long, gray, concertinaed windpipe.

She put the CD in the machine and handed me a pair of headphones: “You’re welcome to go outside in the sunshine and listen there. Just drag the windpipe with you and carry the machine in your hand.”

I thanked her and opened the door, with the machine in one hand and the earphones on my head. The door closed gently on the windpipe, which stretched across the threshold as I went out.

I met no resistance when I pulled on the windpipe; it yielded every time. The weather was so glorious that I decided to walk a little farther, down to the corner at the western end of the street, where I could sit on a bench bathed in evening sunshine. I listened, blown away by the sound of Mississippi John performing songs by Neil Young, although I knew perfectly well that he had never played those songs, and that Neil Young had probably never even composed them—at least not to my knowledge.

Shortly afterward another customer came out of the shop bearing the same kind of machine as me. He dragged the windpipe after him like a fireman wielding his hose and for a moment I was afraid he was going to extinguish the blazing sun.

But he just took a seat on the bench beside me, plainly absorbed in his listening. I didn’t want to disturb him so we just nodded at one another, with those gray metal cylinders lying between us and the windpipes trailing back up the street, gleaming in the fading light. I never see anything without being reminded of something else, so my thoughts strayed to divers’ breathing tubes. It was such a short distance down to the shore in this western part of town, and the sun was about to sink into the sea.

The man took off his headphones, staring into the middle distance. Behind us the shadows of the houses were deepening. I turned off the CD player and removed my headphones as well.

“What were you listening to?” I asked.

“Oscar Peterson on the recorder,” he replied.

At first I thought he was joking but then I noticed the CD case on the bench beside him and there was no mistake: Oscar Peterson, solo recorder recital, recorded New York, 1967. The man was middle-aged, graying at the temples, and a little overweight, in a green shirt, with a large pair of sunglasses in the breast pocket. After a moment or two he took out the sunglasses, put them on and now seemed to be gazing straight into the fiery-red sun.

“It’s a good shop,” I said.

He nodded in agreement, then, putting his headphones back on, he picked up the CD case, gripped the player in one hand, and stood up. As he made his way slowly back toward the shop, the windpipe swayed and coiled behind him like a snake dancing to a fakir’s pipe.

I got to my feet as well. A cool breath of wind had begun to blow in from the sea and everything had taken on a twilight hue. Walking back I didn’t listen to anything except the low hissing of the machine’s windpipe as it dragged over the tarmac. I returned the music apparatus to the shop and told the girl behind the counter that I would be back later to buy the CD. Could she reserve it for me?

She said she was afraid she couldn’t do that.

I left the shop, heading back the way I had originally come; walked all the way home, got into bed and fell asleep and didn’t wake up until the dream was over. I haven’t managed to go back to the shop to buy Mississippi John Hurt in spite of repeated efforts every night to return.

I hope it won’t go out of business.

It was days before we talked to each other. We slept one on each side of the scruffy room we had been allotted by Madame Rosa in the guesthouse in Tangier. We were two Norwegians who, independently of each other, had decided to explore North Africa. I wasn’t at all shy in those days and spoke to anyone, which is precisely why I avoided my fellow countryman. I hadn’t come here to hang out with Norwegians.

One evening he was standing on the terrace speaking in a low voice to Madame Rosa. He was wearing a shirt and waistcoat, had long hair and a hat. There was a tangle of beads around his neck and on his feet he wore pointed boots that must have been much too hot. He was a tall, handsome man who called himself Thunder Snow. I was short and sloppily dressed in jeans and a T-shirt with Ramones printed on it over a faded picture of four guys lacking any charisma. A few months earlier I had cashed in my student grant and dropped out of university. Madame Rosa beckoned to me, I went over reluctantly to join her and my fellow countryman.

“Madame says you know Paul Bowles,” said Thunder Snow and shook my hand. His grip was strong, and he held on.

“You mustn’t believe everything she says,” I said.

“Fine,” he said. “Then I’m certain you know him.”

Next morning we ate breakfast at the Café Metropole and a few hours later went down to the beach to bathe. In the evening we visited Paul Bowles. He served us tea and offered us thin, hand-rolled cigarettes. They were in a small metal case. This was the first time Thunder Snow had smoked kif. He sat wide-eyed in the American writer’s tiny bedroom and spoke dreamily of travelling to Timbuktu. This fabled desert town was the one place in the world he wanted to see more than any other. Bowles laughed genially.

“I’ve never been to Timbuktu,” he said.

A few days later we said good-bye to Madame Rosa and took the train to Casablanca. From there we travelled on by bus to West Sahara. At Laâyoune we decided to join a convoy that was heading to Nouakchott in Mauritania. Several times over the course of this drive we saw caravans. The Tuaregs pass freely back and forth across borders in the world’s biggest desert, they trade with people of different nationalities, it’s a clever way of moving goods and traffic around in the Sahara.

“The Tuaregs will take us to Timbuktu,” said Thunder Snow. He was clearly entranced by all the tales of the desert town. “I’ve always known that the Sahara is my home. Here in the desert is where I belong. I’ll spend the rest of my life in Timbuktu.”

“That’s funny,” I said. “I was thinking just the same thing.”

“You’re kidding, right?” He looked at me, happy and surprised.

“No,” I said. “ Why else would I go along with this ridiculous idea of yours to go to Timbuktu?”

It took us over a month, by car, bus, truck, and in the end camel, to get from Nouakchott to Timbuktu. Both of us came down with dysentery on the way, and when we finally reached the remote little town in the depths of the Sahara we were so exhausted that neither of us had the energy to celebrate. We booked in at Le Bouctou and slept for twenty-four hours straight.

When we woke it was evening and we were served soup in the almost deserted restaurant. Afterward we had a beer in the bar. It was full of tourists from France, Germany, and America.

“I never thought there’d be Americans and Germans here,” said Thunder Snow.