Lope Ariyo - Hibiscus - Discover Fresh Flavours from West Africa with the Observer Rising Star of Food 2017

COPYRIGHT

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First published by HarperCollins Publishers 2017

FIRST EDITION

© Lopè Ariyo 2017

Cover layout design © HarperCollins Publishers

Cover photograph © Ellis Parrinder

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Lopè Ariyo asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work

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Source ISBN 9780008225384

Ebook Edition © June 2017 ISBN 9780008225391

Version 2017-05-11

DEDICATION

For my mother,

the woman who gave me the tools, space and encouragement to dream and create (even if you didn’t initially agree with the food I conjured up)

CONTENTS

COVER

TITLE PAGE

COPYRIGHT

DEDICATION

INTRODUCTION

MY STORE CUPBOARD

FRUIT, VEGETABLES AND TUBERS

BELL PEPPER SOUP

EGUSI SOUP

ATA SALAD

OKRA AND MANGO SALAD

FROZEN WATERMELON AND CUCUMBER SALAD

FENNEL AND MANGO SLAW

HASSELBACK PLANTAINS WITH MUSHROOM STEAK

OKELE

EBA

AMALA ISU

PLANTAIN MASH WITH GINGER CORN AND OKRA GRAVY

AMALA CRACKERS WITH ONIONS GALORE

NIGERIAN ROASTED VEG

SWEET POTATO MEDLEY WITH A TARRAGON DRESSING

UNCLE YOMI’S BAKED EGGS WITH YAM

YAM POTTAGE

GRAINS AND PULSES

CORN SOUP

BEAN SOUP

BLACK RICE BALLS

JOLLOF RICE

JOLLOF CAULIFLOWER ‘RICE’

FRIED COCONUT RICE

PLANTAIN, BEAN AND AVOCADO RICE SALAD

ABEOKUTA BOWL

BELL PEPPERS STUFFED WITH CARROT RICE FUFU

HERBY MILLET WITH GREEN BEANS

ONION MILLET WITH ROASTED GARRI TOMATOES

BEAN FRITTERS

MOIN MOIN

JAND BOWL

SAVOURY MILLET PORRIDGE

RICE CRUMPET

FISH AND SEAFOOD

CRAB AND YAM PEPPER SOUP

SEA BASS AND AUBERGINE SOUP

BAOBAB AND SMOKED SALMON SOUP

SEAFOOD OKRA SOUP

MACKEREL AND ABACHA SALAD

HIBISCUS AND SUMAC PRAWNS

GUAVA SALMON CAKES

EGUSI PRAWN BALLS

IJEBU FISH ROLLS

BAKED AYAMASE TILAPIA ROLL UPS

SEARED SCALLOPS IN GRAPEFRUIT SAUCE

MORINGA AND LEMON SCALLOPS

CHARGRILLED SCOTCH SQUID

CASSAVA STUFFED MUSSELS

PEANUT AND GARRI CALAMARI RINGS

TUNA SKEWERS WITH OVEN-BAKED PLANTAIN WEDGES

OSUN’S SOLE

ATAMA LOBSTER TAILS

PRAWN CURRY

SPICY GRILLED TILAPIA

BAKED KULI KULI COD WITH CAYENNE YAM CHIPS

LEMON AND THYME SEA BASS WITH GARDEN EGG CROQUETTES

STICKY PINEAPPLE COD

PALM OIL HALIBUT BAKED IN UMA LEAVES

BAOBAB TROUT

MEAT AND POULTRY

MUM’S GRILLED CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS

HIBISCUS CHICKEN

MALT-GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS

AMINA’S CHICKEN

ROAST GRAPEFRUIT AND TURMERIC CHICKEN

PUMPKIN SOUP WITH TURKEY

GRILLED NIGERIAN BASIL TURKEY

DUCK LEGS IN GUAVA SAUCE

KOLA BUTTERFLIED GUINEA FOWL

PINEAPPLE AND HIBISCUS STUFFED PORK LOIN

PALM WINE PORK CHOPS

NIGERIAN-STYLE MEATBALLS

STICKY TAMARIND PORK RIBS

SUYA LAMB CURRY

NIGERIAN-STYLE LAMB PIES

SPINACH AND LAMB STEW

BAOBAB LAMB CUTLETS

BEEF AND AMALA STEW POT

MALT BRAISED BEEF

SUYA BEEF BURGERS

MORINGA AND BEEF STEW WITH BEAN DUMPLINGS

STACKED SHANGO BEEF STEAKS

SEARED VENISON IN UDA SAUCE

BAKING AND DESSERTS

BRAIDED AGEGE BREAD

PUFF PUFF

CHOCOLATE CHILLI PUFF PUFF

HIBISCUS DRIZZLE PUFF PUFF

ABIGAIL’S SPICY BANANA BREAD

GARRI AND CACAO BARS

PEANUT AND TOFFEE BARS

CHIN CHIN

COFFEE CHIN CHIN

LEMON CHIN CHIN

AMALA CHOCOLATE MUFFINS

KULI KULI

HIBISCUS AND COCONUT CAKE

CHEAT’S OGI

MANGO OGI TART

PLANTAIN CRÊPES

LAGOS MESS

HIBISCUS POACHED PEARS

GRAPEFRUIT AND GUAVA CHEESECAKE

PLANTAIN ICE CREAM

PEANUT POPCORN

MADAM KOIN KOIN

MANGO AND COCONUT PARFAIT

LIST OF SEARCHABLE TERMS

CONVERSION CHARTS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

INTRODUCTION

My experiences from childhood, school and university have shaped the way I cook and my food has become an expression of who I am. Born and raised in London, I have very early memories of taking trips to Brixton or Croydon market with my mother, Debbie, on Saturdays. We would always visit the vegetable stalls first, followed by the meat and fish stalls where I would do my best to hold my breath for as long as I could. The market was always so congested that I stayed glued to my mother for fear that I would get lost. When we got back home, I would help out in the kitchen as she prepared something like tomato stew or okra soup. I can vividly recall my mother blending and frying the tomatoes, finely chopping the okra and pounding ground rice in hot water with a wooden spoon. The splashes of tomato juice would trickle down the tiles as the stew boiled aggressively, the stove would sizzle as some of the okra soup escaped the pot and, to the delight of my nose, the smell of caramelized chicken crept slowly from the oven. Her approach to cooking has always been to create dishes that are quick and easy. This weekend ritual provided my first experiences of Nigerian cooking.

My mother raised me to be hardworking, honest and independent, and she also thought it was important for me to learn about my Nigerian roots and to connect with my extended family and culture. So in 2003, I went to an all-girls boarding school in Lagos, Nigeria. Initially it was daunting, but as I made friends and got into the routine, I became more open to the Lagos way of life. I came back to London for secondary school, bringing with me a strong sense of culture, solid friendships and an enriched appreciation of Nigerian food. I started cooking more and more, alternating between British and Nigerian meals to keep my cravings for the aromatic flavours to which I’d become accustomed at bay. I would mimic the dishes of beans and plantains or yam and spicy tomato stew that we were served at boarding school – simple dishes that were perfect for weekdays.

I met my closest friends in the sixth form and during our free periods, we would go to the shop to buy sandwiches, Scotch eggs, sausage rolls, cakes and elderflower and blackcurrant cordials to have mini picnics. Since not one of us had the same ethnic background, we’d always bring a dish that represented our own cultural history, too. We taught each other about ingredients and introduced each other to new flavours, and I discovered how joyful it was to invite them over and cook for them. This was one of the things I missed most when I first went to university. When I rang home, my mother would usually ask ‘Have you eaten?’ or ‘Are you hungry?’, as is the norm with most West African parents when their children are sad or moody. I found solace from homesickness in the kitchen and soon my housemates, who knew little about Nigerian culture, came to rely on me for ingredient and spice suggestions. We ended up cooking meals together, whether British, Nigerian or a mix of both cuisines. I realized that in the kitchen I was able to create a home away from home, no matter where I was.