Cold Goose and Cucumber
Goose Fat
Gooseberries
Gooseberry Sauce for Duck
Gooseberry Fool
The Local Table
Grouse
Roast Grouse
Grouse with Heather Honey Toast
Grouse Stock with Oat Groats and Bacon
Gurnard
Gurnard with Sweet and Sour Violet Aubergine and Celery
Fish Stock
Cockle, Potato and Garlic Hotpot
Haddock
Spiced Haddock Pasties
Baked Haddock Soup
Raw Haddock with Apples
Creamy Haddock Cakes
Ham and Gammon
Ham and Peas Dressed with Mayonnaise, Capers and Chives
Gammon and Lentil Broth
Honey
Greengage and Almond Tart with Honey Sauce
Honeycomb Cream with Hazelnut Meringue and Raspberries
John Dory
Spiced John Dory
Fried John Dory with Brown Butter, Parsley and Hazelnuts
Lamb and Mutton
Curried Lamb and Brown Lentil Broth
Lamb Braised with Thyme and Rosemary, Served with Egg Pasta
Skewered Spiced Mutton
Flatbreads
Barbecued Somerset Salt-marsh Mutton
Lamb Shoulder Steak with Broad Beans, Shallots and Mint
Lamb with Tomatoes and Garlic, Finished with Spring Vegetables
Leg of Mutton Slow-roasted with Woody Herbs, Butter and Hay
Shepherd’s Pie
Pistachio and Lamb Rice
Lamb stock
Langoustines
Langoustine Tartare with Hot Olive Oil
Langoustine Cocktail
Langoustine Stock
Langoustine Soup with Lemon Grass and Coconut
Lemons
Water Pudding
Leg of Hogget with Lemon
Lentils
A Lentil Store
Brown Lentils with Red Wine, Carrots and Thyme
Lentils and Rice
Mackerel
Grilled Mackerel
Cured Mackerel
Megrim Soles
Fried Megrim Sole
Mushrooms
Any-mushroom Soup
Mushroom Salad with Lemon, Parsley and Prawns
Mushrooms on Toast
Guinea Fowl Stuffed with Mushrooms, Groats and Herbs
Oats
Bircher Muesli
Haggis and Vegetables that are not Tatties and Neeps’
Oatcakes
Split Mealy Pudding, Scrambled Eggs and Cress
Olive Oil
Little Lemon and Olive Oil Cakes
Raisin, Currant and Sultana Pie in Olive Oil Pastry
Mayonnaise
The Lost Kitchen
Ox Tongue
Braised Tongue
Sandwiches
Hot Tongue with Potato Salad
Hash
Oysters
Grilled Oysters with Butter, Watercress, Celery and Aniseed
Partridges
Pot-roasted Partridges with Breadcrumbs
Partridge Legs
Partridge and Pears
Potted Partridge and Pistachio
Cold Partridge with Wood-roasted Peppers
Partridge Stock
Peas
Pea Stock
Pea Soup with Lettuce and Herbs
Pea and Wild Garlic Broth
Living Pea Salad with Mint
Pea Pies
Pheasant
Bacon-wrapped Pheasant
Stir-fried Pheasant with Ginger and Black Beans
Pheasant Stock
Cold Pheasant with Chickpeas, Pine Nuts, Aubergine and Mint
Pistachio Nuts
Pistachio Biscuits
Pistachio and Lamb Rice
Pomegranates
Fresh Pomegranate Jelly
Mutton Leg Chops with Ginger and Pomegranate Salsa
Pork
Roast Middle Loin of Pork
Roast Spare Rib of Pork Stuffed with Prunes
Warm Pork Sandwiches with Apple Sauce
Cold Pork with Anchovy and Caper Sauce
Potted Pork with Basil
Toast
Butter and Radishes
Leek Jam
Pickled Pears
Lettuce with Dressing
Cucumber Pickle
Pork Chump Chops Braised with Lentils, Cider and Cream
Raised Pork and Duck Pie
Braised Hand of Pork with Wine
Potatoes
Whipped Potatoes with Lancashire Cheese
Potato and Fresh Cheese in an Olive Oil Pastry Pie
Prawns and Shrimps
Prawn Salad with Raw Apple, Rhubarb and Walnut Oil
Pint of Shell-on Prawns with Scrumpy Butter
Shrimp (or Prawn) Shell Broth with Ale and Straw Mushrooms
Potted Shrimps with Egg Pasta
Prawn and Shrimp Stock
Mathias’s Prawn Curry with Coconut Tea’
Quince
Roast Quince
Rabbit
Potted Rabbit with Pork, Rosemary, Pink Pepper and Lemon
Radishes
Butter and Radishes
Radish and Horseradish Sauce
Rice – Short Grain
Tornato Rice
Rice – Long Grain
Spiced Rice with Cauliflower, Coconut, Cloves and Ginger
Brökens Pudding with Caramelised Pineapple
Roots
Roasted Mixed Root Vegetables
Raw Roots
Sweet Potato Stew with Crab, Coriander, Lime and Butter
Carrot Butter Sauce
Carrot Soup
Roses
Lamb with Rose and Almonds
Blancmange with Crystallised Rose Petals
Runner Beans
Runner Beans with Shallot, Mustard, Oil and Vinegar
Beans, Beans and Beans
Sardines
Grilled Sardines with Bread, Walnut and Chilli Sauce
Canned Pilchards with New Potatoes
Sausages
Sausage Meatballs and Farro Broth with Mustard
Wurst with Butterbeans, Tarragon, Leeks and Cream
Scallops
Scallops Baked in Their Shells with Mace
Squash and Pumpkin
Baked Gem Squash
Pumpkin Soup
Sweetbreads
Lamb Sweetbreads Wrapped in Ham with Peas and Lovage
Tea
Tea-soaked Fruitcake
Lemon Lapsang Souchong Jelly
Tomatoes
A Cooked Tomato Store
Tomato and Spelt Soup
Chilled Tomato, Lime, Basil and Lemon Grass Soup
Skinned Tomato and Dandelion Salad
Trotters and Knuckles
Spelt Groats, Knuckle of Pork and Herbs
Pig’s Trotter, Woodpigeon and Wheat Soup with Cobnut and Watercress Sauce
Rhythms of Dinner and a Time to Eat Soup
Turkey
Roast Turkey with Dried Cherry, Apple and Cornbread Stuffing and Duck and Chestnut Forcemeat
Turkey Legs Stuffed with Nettles and Garlic
Using Turkey Stock
Using Cold Turkey
Veal
Baked Short Pasta with Veal Meatballs and Green Ricotta
Stuffed Breast of Veal
Watercress
Watercress Soup
Watercress and Radish Sauce for Pasta
Wheat
Bread Soups
Wild Yeast Bread
Thin Breads
Three-minute Spelt Bread
‘Saffron’ Buns
Airy Buns
Berkswell Cheese Scones
Farro with Potatoes and Basil Oil
Spelt and Lentil Salad with Lots of Parsley
Wild Salmon
Poached Wild Salmon
Wild Salmon and Halibut Cured and Served in Soy, Lime and Garlic Broth
Woodpigeon
Pigeon Breasts with Buttered Shrimps
Potted Pigeon Salad with Celery and Mustard Dressing
Pigeon Rice with Figs and Whole Wheat
APPLES
Apple Soup
Apple, Red Cabbage and Watercress Salad
Hot Apple Juice
Russet Jelly Ice
An apple is often the earliest of our food memories. From the moment an infant takes its first carefully sieved apple purée, to the apple in the lunchbox or the one pinched from a tree in next door’s garden, apples are always close by. For busy students and workers, they are a constant – reliable pocket fodder or desktop picnic regular. Apple turnovers and doughnuts are just another, naughtier, form of the fruit. Then young families make their first apple crumble, and over time come apple snow, pies, tarts and charlottes. Non-pudding eaters never tire of apples with cheese. Then after this lifetime with a fruit that is a symbol of the heart, some of us will face the end with the occasional bowl of apple purée again. I hope I do, teeth or no teeth.
Apples are an emblem of what is wrong and what is right about our food supply. There are thousands of varieties but only a handful of them are grown commercially – a monoculture that squanders custom and harms the environment. But this dent in diversity is now – slowly – reversing, with apple farmers bringing traditional varieties to city markets and even supermarkets putting a few unfamiliar apples on their shelves. There has been a revival of apple customs, community orchards and ‘Apple Days’, when children can taste some odd things made with apples and adults get squiffy on farmhouse cider. Yet Britain grows a shamefully small crop. It was once enormous, but the creation of a free market with other European countries in the 1970s saw British farmers chop down every tree, grub them up and plant a more valuable crop. Did they know at the time that to destroy an orchard is to terminate the survival of a menagerie of wildlife, including the vital wild bee population? They do now, and so does Defra (the Department of Food and Rural Affairs), which is offering incentives to farmers planting orchards. So there’s hope – a long way still to go, but I feel optimistic.
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