Rachel Allen - Recipes from My Mother

I’ve found that if I leave the fat sitting on top of the stock while it’s in the fridge there are two added bonuses – once the fat is chilled it’s far easier to lift it off the stock; and the stock keeps for longer (a few weeks rather than just a few days) in the fridge if completely covered in the fat. Remove the fat before use.

Chicken noodle broth

SERVES 6–8

I remember many versions of this broth while growing up – I don’t think it was ever the same twice. Mum seemed to constantly have a delicious chicken stock on the go, which always went into this most restorative of soups – a hug in a bowl.

1.6 litres (2¾ pints) chicken stock, well strained

4 garlic cloves, finely sliced

160g (5½oz) spaghetti, broken into 2.5cm (1in) lengths

4 tbsp chopped parsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Put the chicken stock, garlic and spaghetti into a saucepan and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover and bring to a gentle boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 8–10 minutes until the spaghetti is cooked (or cook for the length of time specified on the packet).

2. When the spaghetti is cooked, stir in the parsley, check the seasoning and serve.

Chicken broth with chilli and ginger

SERVES 4

1.2 litres (2 pints) cold chicken or vegetable stock, well strained

20 large sprigs of coriander or flat-leaf parsley, stalks and leaves separated

½–1 red chilli, to taste, finely sliced (leave the seeds in if you dare!)

2cm (¾ inch) piece of fresh ginger, finely sliced

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Put the cold stock in a saucepan and add the coriander or parsley stalks (keep the leaves for serving), sliced chilli, ginger and a little salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then taste and add more seasoning, if you like.

2. Ladle into warm bowls or cups and serve scattered with the coriander or parsley leaves – whole or chopped, whichever you prefer.

Chicken dumpling soup

SERVES 4

A twist on the age-old Asian dumpling soup, this is deeply satisfying and wonderfully restorative. The better the chicken stock, the better the soup.

300g (11oz) minced chicken (thigh is best but breast works fine too)

1 small garlic clove, crushed

2 tbsp chopped parsley

¼ tsp grated nutmeg

60g (2½oz) spring onions, white parts finely chopped and green parts sliced at an angle, kept separate

a little oil

1.5 litres (2½ pints) chicken stock

handful of broken spaghetti (optional)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the minced chicken in a bowl and add the garlic, parsley, ¼teaspoon salt, the nutmeg and a twist of black pepper. Add the white parts of the spring onions and mix well to combine. Break off a small piece of the mixture and fry it in a little oil, then taste it and adjust the seasoning if needed.

2. With wet hands, shape the minced chicken into 20 equal-sized dumplings. Set aside in the fridge while you prepare your chicken broth.

3. Pour the stock into a saucepan, add salt and pepper if necessary, and bring it to the boil. Add the chicken dumplings and bring to a gentle simmer for 10 minutes to cook the dumplings through. (If you want to make this soup more substantial, add a handful of broken spaghetti strands and cook with the stock and the dumplings.)

4. Add the green parts of the spring onions for the last minute of cooking. Divide the broth and the dumplings among four bowls and serve.

Chorizo, bean and kale broth

SERVES 6

I have a problem with chorizo, in that I cannot get enough of the stuff. It has an amazing ability to give its characteristic kick to everything – from chicken and shellfish to pulses and grains. This is the kind of chunky soup that I adore; full of flavour and bursting with goodness.

125g (4½oz) dried borlotti beans, haricot or butter beans (or use 250g/9oz tinned beans, drained and rinsed)

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 red onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 celery stick, chopped

1 garlic clove, chopped

110g (4oz) chorizo, skin removed, cut into dice

200g (7oz) tomatoes, chopped

1.2 litres (2 pints) chicken or vegetable stock

75g (3oz) de-stalked kale, roughly chopped

1 tbsp chopped parsley

1 tbsp chopped rosemary

pinch of grated nutmeg

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

crusty bread

1. First prepare the beans, if using dried beans. Soak the dried beans in plenty of cold water overnight. The next day, drain and place in a pan of fresh cold water and boil for 45–60 minutes until tender. Drain and set aside.

2. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic with a pinch of salt and pepper. Sweat for 15 minutes with the lid on until the onion is soft but not coloured.

3. Add the diced chorizo, replace the lid and continue to cook for a further 5 minutes to let the oils run out.

4. Next, add the freshly cooked or drained tinned beans and tomatoes, cover and cook for a further 5 minutes. Then, add the stock, bring to the boil, then simmer for 5 minutes more.

5. Finally, add the kale, parsley, rosemary and nutmeg, and cook, uncovered, for 5–10 minutes until the kale is tender. The cooking time will depend on the time of year, as young kale cooks quicker. Serve with crusty bread.

Oxtail and pearl barley soup

SERVES 4–6

A deeply satisfying meal in a bowl, this is the very essence of comfort food. Hearty, nutritious and frugal to boot, what’s not to love?

90g (3¼oz) pearl barley

25g (1oz) butter

1 oxtail, about 1kg (2lb 3oz), cut into pieces 4–6cm (1½–2in) long, cut through the ‘knuckles’

3 carrots, cut into large chunks

1 leek, cut into large chunks

2 celery sticks, cut into large chunks

1 large or 2 small onions, cut into large chunks

3 garlic cloves, halved

100ml (3½fl oz) red wine

4 tbsp sherry vinegar

1 bouquet garni (a few sprigs of parsley, 1 or 2 sprigs of thyme and a small bay leaf)

2 tbsp tomato purée

good pinch of salt

15 peppercorns

4 tbsp chopped parsley

juice of ¼ lemon

1. Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas mark 2. Put the pearl barley into a heatproof bowl and pour in 270ml (9½fl oz) boiling water to cover. Set aside.

2. Melt the butter in a large casserole over a medium heat. Add the chunks of oxtail and brown on all sides, then transfer to a bowl or plate. Brown the vegetables and garlic, then pour in the wine and vinegar and scrape up the dark caramelised bits with a wooden spoon. Return the oxtail to the casserole. Next, pour in 1.5 litres (2½ pints) water and add the bouquet garni, tomato purée, salt and peppercorns. Bring to the boil, then transfer to the oven, or simmer very gently on the hob, for 3–3½ hours until the meat is falling off the bone. Carefully remove the pieces of oxtail from the casserole and put on a tray to cool slightly.

3. Meanwhile, strain the vegetables and discard, then strain the cooking liquor into another heatproof bowl. Clean the casserole and pour in the strained liquid. Allow to stand until the fat rises to the top, then skim it off. Strain the pearl barley and add it to the skimmed liquid.