Rachel Allen - Recipes from My Mother

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Full of warmth and nostalgia, Rachel shares culinary inspiration passed down through the generations.Rachel’s food is heart-warming. She uses gorgeous ingredients that are used in abundance to create comforting, vibrant meals. Her love of food started when she was very young, sitting in the kitchen with her mother, helping and tasting. Her mother taught her their Scandi family recipes, as well as those she picked up from living in Ireland. Rachel become more and more passionate about food as she grew up, and she drew inspiration from her childhood memories of helping her mother cook and sitting round with her family enjoying delicious meals and treats. Here she celebrates the food memories of her childhood, alongside those of friends and other members of her family. Packed with much-loved recipes and stunning photography, this is the book to fall back in love with cooking.

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5. Drop large spoonfuls (about 50ml/2fl oz each) of the pancake batter into the hot pan – leave plenty of space between them as the pancakes spread while cooking. Turn the heat down slightly or the pancakes will burn before they’re cooked in the centre. You should be able to fit four or five in the pan at a time. Cook on the first side until bubbles appear and pop on the upper surface – 1–2 minutes – then, using a fish slice or something similar, turn the pancakes over and finish cooking on the other side for another minute or so until golden brown. Cook all the pancakes in this way in a few batches, keeping the cooked ones warm in a low oven until they are all ready. Serve with butter or maple syrup – or both.

Kedgeree SERVES 68 My friend Helen who grew up in England with an Irish - фото 13

Kedgeree

SERVES 6–8

My friend Helen, who grew up in England with an Irish father and a mother from New Zealand, says that the taste of kedgeree will always bring her back, in an instant, to when she was little, sitting round the table with her family having brunch. It’s a great recipe for feeding a crowd and, of course, it’s good at any time of the day. This curried rice dish, made with delicious fresh or smoked fish, hard-boiled eggs and lots of intensely green parsley, is inspired by Helen’s mum’s recipe. Thanks, Beth!

450g (1lb) white or brown basmati rice

15g (½oz) butter

500g (1lb 2oz) smoked haddock (you could smoke your own as on here), skinned, deboned and cut into 2.5–5cm (1–2in) chunks

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 large onions, thinly sliced

2 tsp ground cumin

2 tsp ground coriander

¼ tsp ground turmeric

pinch of cayenne pepper

½ tsp garam masala

8 eggs

225g (8oz) fresh or frozen peas

75ml (3fl oz) regular or double cream

2 tbsp chopped parsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring a large pan of water to the boil, add the rice with a good pinch of salt and cook over a medium heat, stirring from time to time, until tender – be careful not to overcook it or it will go mushy. White basmati rice will take only 10–12 minutes, while brown basmati rice will take 25–30 minutes to cook.

2. Place the butter in a frying pan over a medium-high heat and allow to melt and foam. Add the smoked fish pieces and 1 tablespoon water. Season with black pepper, turn the heat down slightly and cook, tossing regularly, until the fish is just opaque, 4–5 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, place a large frying pan over a high heat and heat the olive oil until hot, then add the sliced onions and sauté for 5 minutes, tossing regularly, until almost softened and golden at the edges. Add the ground cumin and coriander, the turmeric, cayenne pepper and garam masala. Turn the heat down to low, cover the pan with a lid and continue to cook the onions until they are completely softened, 5–8 minutes.

4. While the onions are cooking, bring a pot of water up to the boil, gently drop in the eggs and boil for just 6 or 7 minutes, depending on the size. When they are cooked, drain and pour cold water over them to stop them cooking. Once they are almost cool, peel the eggs, handling them gently as they’ll be slightly soft in the centre.

5. Drop the peas into a pan of boiling water and boil for just 2 minutes or until cooked.

6. Once everything is cooked, you can assemble the dish. Add the drained rice and peas to the onions in the frying pan over a low heat and stir to mix. Carefully stir in the fish with any lovely juices. Pour in the cream and half the chopped parsley and mix gently, then season with salt and pepper to taste.

7. Transfer to a wide, shallow serving bowl. Cut the eggs into quarters and arrange on top and around the sides, then sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley and serve.

Devilled kidneys SERVES 46 A classic Victorian British breakfast dish this - фото 14

Devilled kidneys

SERVES 4–6

A classic Victorian British breakfast dish, this would set you up for the day – and then some! Of course, it’s great at any other time of the day, too, if kidneys are too hardcore for your morning ritual.

2 tbsp plain flour

¼ tsp cayenne pepper

¼ tsp grated nutmeg

1 tbsp sherry vinegar

1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1½ tsp Dijon mustard

90ml (3½fl oz) chicken stock

175ml (6fl oz) regular or double cream

25g (1oz) butter

6 lamb’s kidneys, peeled, halved, all membranes removed, fat snipped from core, cut into 6 pieces (3 from each half)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

hot buttered toast or buttery mash

1. Mix the flour, cayenne pepper, nutmeg and a generous pinch of salt and pepper in a bowl and set aside.

2. In another bowl, combine the vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, chicken stock and cream, then set aside.

3. Heat the butter in a pan over a high heat. Toss the kidneys in the flour mix and, when the butter is foaming, cook the kidneys, turning them so that they brown on all sides. Next, pour in the cream mixture and allow it to bubble and thicken.

4. Serve on hot buttered toast or with buttery mashed potatoes.

Chicken stock MAKES 152 LITRES 2½3½ PINTS STOCK I always have a pot of - фото 15

Chicken stock MAKES 152 LITRES 2½3½ PINTS STOCK I always have a pot of - фото 16

Chicken stock

MAKES 1.5–2 LITRES (2½–3½ PINTS) STOCK

I always have a pot of chicken stock on the go. When you’re using good chickens for roasting or braising, it’s crazy not to boil up the bones afterwards. There’s an old South American proverb that says, ‘Good broth will resurrect the dead,’ and it’s not far wrong as the nutritional content of a homemade stock indeed has miraculous qualities if eaten regularly. Our great-grandmothers were right after all.

1 whole chicken carcass, raw or cooked

1 large leek, cut into 4 pieces

2 celery sticks, each cut into 4 pieces

2 carrots, each cut into 4 pieces

2–4 garlic cloves, to taste, peeled

1 bouquet garni (a few sprigs of parsley, 1 or 2 sprigs of thyme and a small bay leaf)

a few black peppercorns

pinch of sea salt

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Place the chicken bones in a roasting tin and cook in the oven for 15 minutes. The roasting stage is optional but I love the slightly stronger, more enhanced flavour that it gives the final broth.

2. Once the bones are roasted (see tips), transfer them to a large saucepan and add the leek, celery, carrots and garlic cloves. Pop in the bouquet garni and black peppercorns, then cover generously with cold water – adding about 2 litres (3½pints). The water must be cold since, while it’s slowly heating up, it will draw the flavour and goodness out of the vegetables and the bones.

3. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 2 hours, skimming off and discarding any foam that rises to the surface.

4. Once it’s cooked, strain the broth through a fine sieve, then leave to stand to allow the fat to rise to the top. Skim off the fat and season the broth with salt to taste.

TIPS

If there are any bits of meat or little caramelised nuggets of flavour stuck to the roasting tin after cooking the chicken bones, place the tray over a medium heat on the hob, pour in a small glass of water and, using a whisk, scrape to dissolve the bits. Pour these into the saucepan too.

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