Helena Sheffield - The Art of Wearing Hats - What to choose. Where to find. How to style.

17th century –The term ‘milliner’ is first used to describe hatmakers. Milan is already considered a centre of fashion, so the term suggests that only ‘Milan-ers’ make hats.

18th century –The French Revolution makes hats unpopular in France (perhaps for the first and last time), as they’re seen to indicate social status. It’s deemed fashionable – and safer – to appear democratic, so hats drop out of use.

19th century –Women’s necks are considered too erotic for public display, so bonnets are fashioned with frills and ribbons at the back to cover them up.

1914–1918 –During the First World War fabric is scarce, so plumes of feathers and overly adorned hats are frowned upon for being unpatriotic. Hats become much smaller and simpler.

1920s –Women’s necks are apparently still considered erotic, as they’re all being shown off by shocking new hairstyles and hats that accentuate their length.

1939 –1945 –In complete contrast to the First World War, hats are one of the only items of clothing not affected by severe rationing. In France berets are adopted as a symbol of resistance against Nazi occupation, and explosions of feathers and flowers are admired rather than shunned.

Late 1960s –Fashions begin leaning towards the daring young people, and hats gradually fall from grace, perceived as the preserve of older, more conservative dressers.

2011 –The wedding of the century takes place between Prince William and Kate Middleton, bringing the hat back with resounding success. Royalty and guests wear hats with panache, style and unfailing confidence, finally returning them to the public eye.

2016 –A book so brilliant, useful and witty is published, championing the hat and inspiring a revolution of new hat-wearers, that it will later be heralded as the tome that changed the fashion industry for good. (Clue: you’re reading it.)

This hat was famously inspired by Trilby O’Ferrall, a character from one of George du Maurier’s novels who, in a stage adaptation, wore an interesting new soft hat that was quickly named after her and adopted by the public in the late 19th century. It has always been more popular in America than in Britain, and because of this is often confused for a fedora – a grave mistake indeed!

WEAR IT:ANYWHERE AND EVERYWHERE

This hat suits day and night during autumn and winter. Always smart, it’s one both men and women can wear with ease.

OWN IT:BIG HAIR, LONG FACES

As it’s a narrow hat, the trilby suits long faces best. It also works well with big hair as the material is soft and flexible.

STYLE IT:CRISP SHIRT AND TROUSERS

The trilby means business, and it therefore works best with smart outfits – think The Blues Brothers or Marlene Dietrich.

FIND IT:ALMOST EVERYWHERE

Trilbies can be bought in every hat establishment you can think of – vintage shops, high-street shops, milliners and even fancy-dress shops. You now have no excuse not to get one.

PERFECT IT:DON A WAISTCOAT

Whether male or female, this is not only dapper, but authoritative and oh-so-suave.

STYLE GURU

The one and only Justin Timberlake has displayed a wealth of trilbies over the years. The smooth-talking singer often wears them with a Suit & Tie, and that’s Not a Bad Thing.

The world’s first bowler hat was made for a gamekeeper in 1849, and the first thing he did when he saw it was jump on it. No, that wasn’t out of disgust, but to check whether it could support his weight and thus be suitable for wearing in all weathers. Although originally meant for withstanding the sharp winds and torrential rain of the British countryside, it was quickly adopted by city workers in Britain and America before falling out of regular use in the 1960s. An easier-to-wear, modern version has recently exploded back onto the scene, making the bowler a distinctly stylish hat once more.

WEAR IT:IN THE DRY OR THE DAMP

Because bowler hats are tight-fitting, the wind can’t blow them off your head (a common and harrowing problem that will be addressed in Chapter 4), and their tough felt material isn’t bothered by a bit of rain.

OWN IT:SMALL HEADS AND ROUND FACES

Modern incarnations of the hat are fashioned to rest primly atop your head, suiting round faces in particular. They’re not big hats, so smaller heads benefit from this.

STYLE IT:BLACK SKINNY JEANS, A STRIPED TOP AND A BOWLER

This look is not only embarrassingly easy to put together, but also gives a classic twist to a popular outfit.

FIND IT:HIGH STREET

Bowler hats are everywhere. You’ll find one in most big high-street shops from autumn through to spring.

PERFECT IT:ALL NIGHT LONG

Swap trainers for smart shoes to go from a stylish daytime to a polished evening look.

STYLE GURU

Fearne Cotton, a respected hat champion, often nails the bowler, teamed with a simple, ‘thrown-together’ look and a dash of lipstick.

The 1920s is perhaps the only era defined by a hat. The cloche – chic, stylish and simple – was created by French milliner Caroline Reboux. By 1924 the cloche had transfixed the continent, even inspiring novels such as The Green Hat , which became known as the book that encapsulated the frenzied hysteria of the decade. Snuggly skimming the nape of the neck, the cloche creates an elegant, elongated line that evokes nostalgia for a time long past.

WEAR IT:DAY OR NIGHT

One of the most versatile of hats, it never fails to deliver a final splash of panache to every outfit.

OWN IT:CROPPED HAIR

On account of its structured shape the cloche is fairly rigid, and it might be difficult to wear one if you have big hair. A cropped haircut is neat and will peek out from beneath like a secret begging to be discovered.

STYLE IT:FULL SKIRTS AND FLOATY DRESSES

Although originally worn with the slim-fitting, scandalous dresses of the 1920s, the cloche is great for balancing the flare of big skirts with its graceful shape.

FIND IT:INDEPENDENT HAT SHOPS

While high-street shops are starting to adopt the cloche, independent hat shops have a real variety of colours and styles to help you find your unique hat.

PERFECT IT:THROW ON A CAPE

It might sound strange, but instead of putting on a coat in the winter try wearing a cape, letting it lend that extra element of dignity that the cloche completes. It’s also particularly fun to swoosh around in ...

STYLE GURU