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First published by HarperCollins Publishers 2019
SECOND EDITION
© Anthony Middleton 2019
Cover design by Clare Ward © HarperCollins Publishers 2020
Cover photograph © Andrew Brown
A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library
Anthony Middleton asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work
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Source ISBN: 9780008194680
Ebook Edition © April 2020 ISBN: 9780008194697
Version: 2020-03-06
For my wife and children, who have been there for me without fail: Emilie, Oakley, Shyla, Gabriel, Priseïs and Bligh. You give me the driving force to become the best version of myself and to want to succeed at everything I do. You really are my everything. Never forget that.
1 Cover
2 Title Page
3 Copyright
4 Dedication
5 Contents
6 PROLOGUE
7 CHAPTER 1: TAMING THE GHOST OF ME
8 CHAPTER 2: HOW TO HARNESS FEAR
9 CHAPTER 3: THE ROAD TO CHOMOLUNGMA
10 CHAPTER 4: THE MAGIC SHRINKING POTION
11 CHAPTER 5: IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE LANKY BEEKEEPER
12 CHAPTER 6: THE FEAR OF SUFFERING
13 CHAPTER 7: THE ICEFALL
14 CHAPTER 8: THE FEAR OF FAILURE
15 CHAPTER 9: DEATH IS OTHER PEOPLE
16 CHAPTER 10: THE FEAR OF CONFLICT
17 CHAPTER 11: CONQUERING THE KING OF THE ROCKS
18 CHAPTER 12: EVERYONE’S SECRET FEAR
19 CHAPTER 13: REVENGE OF THE KING
20 CHAPTER 14: THE OPPOSITE OF FEAR
21 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
22 By the Same Author
23 About the Publisher
Landmarks CoverFrontmatterStart of ContentBackmatter
List of Pages iii iv v 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 61 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 777879808182838485868788899091929394959697 99101102103104105106107108109110111112113114115116117118119120121122123124125 126127128129130131132133134135136 137139140141142143144145146147148149150151152153154157158159160161162163164165166167168169170 171173174175176177178179180181182183184185186187188189190191 193195196197198199200201202203204205 206207208209210211212213 215217218219220221222223224225226227228229230231232233234235236237 239241 242243244245 246247248249 250251252253254255256257 259261262263264265266267268269270271272273274275276277278279280281282 283286287288289 290291 292293 294295296297298299300301302 303305306307308309310311312313314315316317318 319321322323324325326327328329 330331332333334335336337338339340341342 343 ii
There were ten of us up there, single file up a narrow track of rock and ice. The going was hard, the incline steep. We’d been up and out of our sleeping bags since dawn, with heavy daypacks strapped to our backs, and were hungry and thirsty and tired. Toes were sore and fingers were numb. The freezing air dried our mouths. I’d never been so high off the ground. The climb was such that we were half-crawling, ankles bent, hands grabbing at anything that looked as if it might take our weight. There wasn’t much time to look around and take in the view, but with every glimpse upwards I took I could sense the world getting bluer and bigger around us as the sky swelled into a high dome. With every movement of arm, leg and lung, we were leaving our everyday lives further behind and inching higher into the heavens. It felt rare and unsettling.
The further we climbed, up towards the mountain’s famous pyramidal peak, the thinner the track became and the slower the going. Nobody was talking any more. There was no laddy banter or gruff words of encouragement among the men, only grunting and panting and the silence of intense concentration. As I pushed on, I kept reminding myself that we were walking in the steps of my mountaineering hero Edmund Hillary, who’d penetrated these glacial valleys, known hereabouts as ‘cwms’, and scaled these icy cliffs more than six decades ago. We were way above the birds, it seemed, intruding into the realm of the gods and playing by their rules. I tried not to focus on the height or the danger, although I could feel the fear as a kind of tense sickness in my gut. This was getting serious. A couple of steps to the right and you were off the mountain. Dead.
A crack. A cry.
‘Shit!’
A rock the size of a cannonball flew past my face, missing my jaw by about half an inch. It was so close I could smell its cold metallic tang as it shot by. I lurched out of the way, skidding on the track, almost following the rock down. Above my head a brown boot scrabbled on the snowy scree for purchase. I looked down to see the rock being swallowed by the abyss, smacking and echoing as it bashed down the mountainside. An icy wind blew around my neck and face.
‘You all right?’ I shouted up.
The lad above me was gripping on to the mountainside, as if the earth itself were shaking. His cheeks were pale, his shoulders slumped, his gaze rigid.
‘Yeah,’ he said. And then, with a little more assurance, ‘Yes, mate.’
I watched him steel himself and try swallow his dread. He turned to carry on.
‘Good man.’
He lifted his leg once again, trying to find a more secure foothold. But then he paused, his boot hovering mid-air. He sucked in tightly through his chapped lips, breath billowing out.
‘I’m coming down,’ he said. ‘It’s, er … I’m, er …’
I thought he was going to lose it. His breathing became rapid and he started looking all around him, as if surrounded by invisible buzzing demons.
‘Just take it slow,’ I shouted up.
As he picked his way past me, I pressed my body into the freezing incline. His fear was infectious. I wanted so badly to go with him. It was safe down there. There was tea and biscuits and shelter. What the fuck was I doing up here? What was the point? What was I trying to achieve? The mountain didn’t want us crawling up it like fleas, it was making that all too obvious. It was trying to shake us off, one by one. Who was I to think I could take it on? Who was I to think I could succeed where Hillary himself had struggled? How was I supposed to know where to put my feet? The guy in front of me had placed his foot on a rock that looked like it had been rooted in place for a thousand years, and it had nearly made him fall off the mountain and taken me with him.
‘What you doing, Midsy?’ came a frustrated voice from below. ‘Come on!’
I had to make a decision, one way or the other. I had to commit. Up? Or down?
Up.
I pushed myself back into a climbing position. The instant my body followed my mind’s instruction, something incredible happened. The entire mountain changed. It wasn’t trying to shake me off any more – it was pulling me towards it. Every rock had been put there, not to trick me, but to help me. When they worked loose from the mountainside and gave way, that wasn’t the mountain trying to kill me, that was the mountain telling me where not to put my feet. These icy gullies weren’t death slides, they were ladders. Look how beautiful it was up there. I’d never seen anything like it. I’d never felt anything like I was feeling, right then. I would achieve this. I would fight the fear. I would use it like fuel. I would make it up there, to the top of the world, to the seat of the gods. I would conquer heaven.
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