Marcus Wareing - New Classics

Salt-baking is a whole new way to enhance the parsnip’s sweetness and add to its savouriness. Parsnip and horseradish are, for me, a natural food match like tomato and basil. I really like the heat the horseradish adds to this dish, while also adding a little acidity to break through the creaminess. This is a winter dish that is great for a cold evening to warm and satisfy.

Serves: 4

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour 25 minutes

6–8 parsnips, peeled and topped and tailed (about 1kg in total)

FOR THE SALT DOUGH

1 × quantity of Salt Dough, using 1 tbsp roughly chopped thyme

FOR THE HORSERADISH SAUCE

400ml milk

½ bunch of thyme

150ml double cream

3 tbsp horseradish sauce

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE CRUMBLE TOPPING

150g wholemeal flour

50g rolled oats

100g soft butter

50g grated Cheddar cheese

2 tbsp thyme leaves, plus extra to serve

Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.

To make the salt dough, combine all ingredients in a bowl with 100–125ml cold water (enough to bind the mixture). Knead until well combined. Roll out the dough on a sheet of baking parchment to a thickness of 2mm, then place the parsnips, top to tail, on top. Fold the dough on top of the parsnips until the parsnips are completely enclosed and place the dough-wrapped parsnips on a baking sheet. Bake for 1 hour until the parsnips are soft (breaking the crust a little to test for doneness with a knife).

While the parsnips are baking, make the horseradish sauce. Put the milk and thyme in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and cover with clingfilm. Set aside for 20 minutes then strain through a fine sieve into a jug. Add the cream and horseradish and season well with sea salt and pepper.

Remove the parsnips from the oven and, using a knife, carefully remove the salt dough and discard. Leave the parsnips to cool, then cut them into 2–3cm-thick rounds. Put them in the bottom of a large, ovenproof dish (approximately 20cm square). Pour the horseradish sauce over the top of the parsnips.

To make the crumble, mix all ingredients together in a bowl. Season well then crumble on top of the parsnips and horseradish sauce.

Bake for 20–25 minutes until golden, then sprinkle over the remaining thyme.

SALT-BAKED KABOCHA SQUASH, POMEGRANATE, RICOTTA AND MINT

Kabocha squash is a small and sweet, dry-fleshed pumpkin. Salt-baking really brings alive the flavour of the squash and enhances its sweetness. The combination of the sweet pumpkin flesh with the creamy ricotta and tangy pomegranate makes a great meal. Add the freshness of the mint and the crunch of the toasted seeds and it’s a winner.

Serves: 4

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour 30 minutes, plus cooling

1 kabocha or other small squash

60g pumpkin seeds

½ tbsp soy sauce

½ tbsp vegetable oil

200g ricotta cheese

grated zest of 1 lemon

4 tbsp pomegranate molasses

50ml olive oil

seeds from 1 small pomegranate

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ bunch of mint, to serve

FOR THE SALT DOUGH

1 × quantity of Salt Dough, using 1½ tbsp chopped rosemary

Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6 and line a baking sheet and baking tray with baking parchment.

To make the salt dough, combine all the ingredients in a bowl with 125–150ml cold water (enough to bind the mixture). Knead until well combined. Roll out the dough on a sheet of baking parchment to a thickness of 2mm then wrap it around the squash until it is completely enclosed. Place the dough-wrapped squash on the lined baking sheet and bake for 1½ hours until soft (breaking the crust a little to test for doneness with a knife).

While the squash is cooking, coat the pumpkin seeds with the soy sauce and vegetable oil in a bowl. Tip onto the lined baking tray, spread them out and bake for 8 minutes. Remove and allow to cool.

Whisk the ricotta and lemon zest in a bowl and season to taste with sea salt and pepper.

Whisk the pomegranate molasses with the olive oil in a separate bowl.

Remove the squash from the oven and, using a knife, carefully remove the salt dough from the squash and discard. Leave the squash to cool, then scoop the flesh from the skin, leaving it in large chunks.

To assemble, place the chunks of squash on a large platter or divide between four plates. Dollop the ricotta on top and drizzle with the pomegranate dressing. Garnish with the pumpkin and pomegranate seeds. Scatter over the mint and serve.

TEMPURA FENNEL WITH FENNEL MARMALADE AND GARLIC AIOLI

Tempura is always a treat but generally it is reserved for fish or seafood. This recipe uses fennel, which has a lovely flavour when it’s effectively ‘steamed’ in the light, crisp batter. In this recipe, there are also two other unusual elements – a fennel ‘marmalade’ whereby the fennel is caramelised and releases its own sugars to create a sweet condiment, and a vegan aioli made with chickpea water.

Serves: 4 as a starter

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: around 1 hour

2 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for deep-frying

1 fennel bulb, finely sliced, plus 1 bunch baby fennel bulbs, each bulb halved lengthways

grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE AIOLI

60g aquafaba (the liquid from a 400g tin of chickpeas, strained through a sieve)

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

1 garlic clove, finely grated

½ tsp Dijon mustard

175ml olive oil

50ml vegetable oil

½ tsp table salt

FOR THE TEMPURA BATTER

6 tbsp cornflour

3 tbsp plain flour, plus extra for dusting

3–6 tbsp soda water

Heat the 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add the finely sliced fennel. Season lightly with sea salt, reduce the heat and cook gently for 40–50 minutes, stirring regularly, until it caramelises and turns a dark golden brown. Add half the lemon zest and juice and cook for a further 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a dish and leave to cool.

To make the aioli, put the aquafaba in a bowl and, using a balloon whisk, mix in the vinegar, garlic and Dijon mustard. Put both oils in a jug and slowly drizzle them into the aquafaba mixture, whisking continuously as you do so. When it reaches a thick mayonnaise consistency, season with table salt and the remaining lemon zest and juice.

To make the tempura batter, mix the flours together in a bowl with a pinch of sea salt and a pinch of pepper. Gradually whisk in enough of the soda water to make a thick batter.

Pour enough vegetable oil into a deep-fat fryer or large, deep saucepan to come up to 6cm and heat to 180°C.

Dust the baby fennel slices in the flour then, one by one, dip them in the tempura batter and carefully place them in the hot oil. Fry (in batches) for 4–6 minutes until golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to kitchen paper to remove any excess oil.

Serve the tempura immediately, with the marmalade and aioli.

TAGLIATELLE WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH, HAZELNUTS AND CRISPY SAGE