Danny Beer - A tour of Eurasia

You find a pension but it is closed. You ask the lady in the bar next door. You need a card she says. But how do you get a card? One asks. Not to worry though as a very nice pension is to be found just a couple km further along. Time for a pivo.

After a little whiles along the road you beeline off to Breclev castle. Unfortunately it is closed. Wait until April apparently. After Breclev you kinda get lost, mixing up the hiking trail with the cycling 1. Results are anything but good but you must have gotten out alive. After all, who would be here to write this?

Eventually a road is found. Then a late lunch. You see a lot more snow today as you roll through a couple minor ski resorts. It is sunny and hot but the wind bites cold, especially on the descents. There have been some beautiful rolling hills these past 2 days. Lots of vineyards abound although it’s a little too early for any colour.

Then there is only a couple of hours of daylight left until you can make it to Kromenz, today’s destination. And those legs just don’t seem to want to help. No matter. The last 12 km are all downhill. Kromenz is lovely with a beautiful town center. Unfortunately there isn’t anywhere to stay so you move on, in vain hope of a pension before night fall.

It doesn’t happen though. The lights go on but only for 3 km more. In Zarici you find a pension, all decked out like a castle. In the entrance there is a gallows with a dummy hanging. Ominous perhaps? You go up to your room. Wait a minute. A quick look from the outside confirms it. You are staying in a turret. How cool is that!

Gallows.

My turret.

It’s not far at all to Olomouc. You arrive by 12 and spend the rest of the day wandering about town. Olomouc is a wonderful city. Very livable. But there’s no one else about the hostel so there’s not really any point to stay. Otherwise Olomouc would make a great rest day or 2. But as today already is pretty much a rest day.

Yesterday was pretty much a rest day so it is back on the road again today. You follow the bike paths but even then you still manage to get yourself lost. On the outskirts of town you stop to fix the mp3. Just ahead a branch breaks off a tree and lands on the path in front. Missed it by that much. A little further out the path disappears entirely as you trudge through the mud.

Bouzov castle looks pretty cool but alas you are a week too early for a tour. Restaurants are also closed.

Just an easy day today. No need to ride too much. Except there’s a biting headwind.

Lots of snow today. You head to Policka trying to find this castle but it looks like it doesn’t exist. Oh wait, there it is on the map you got from the tourist office. Oh well. Too late now. Policka is nice though with a nice square and plague column. No pensions in Chrudim so you keep riding to Pardubice.

And now oh so sleepy. Cannot write. Not another.

Gallows.

No snow here.

Saturday March 27, 2010, 125 km (78 miles) – Total so far: 750 km (466 miles)

It is already 9 pm. It is cold. There’s snow everywhere. And there is nowhere to stay. Prices are outrages. Penzions cannot be found. And now you have a flat. 16 km to Jicin. Looks like a long hard slog but there will be places to stay there. If only it isn’t too late.

Days are usually biting cold until around 11. It gets hot but an icy wind keeps the coat on. It cools down some by 5 or 6. 8 pm is still warmer than 10 am. But not today. Today is icy cold all day. True, it does warm up some but then it cools right down again. On go the gloves. On go the mittens. Yes, there are mittens. Want to know a cool trick? Socks make great mittens. Especially on a long descent.

You passed through a couple really beautiful towns. You detour to Kuks because you remember reading about it in the guidebook. You reread the section on Kuks. Give it a miss. Oh.

Bike trails have you riding on dirt tracks along the river Lube and through a muddy field.

You fix the flat and move on. Oh, and your headlight is almost dead as well. Fortunately a big round moon helps shine your way. The road to Jicin has for the most part a nice shoulder. But, and take it from someone who knows, it is not good for the shoulder to end when high beams are being shone into your eyes.