Andrey Mikhailov - Alma-Ata – discouraging charm in the Centre of Asia. The subjective guidebook

Stability of the Cathedral has proved Zenkov’s anti-seismic construction approach. Wooden frame made from strong Tien Shan firs, fastened together with iron pins in a flexible structure was put on the monolith of reinforced concrete. Many high-rise buildings are being built according to this principle in the southern capital.

Cathedral resisted the next disaster as well; this time it was social disaster, when militant atheists unleashed their anger on everything that reminded of God. The Church, however, was kicked out of the temple; the building was a museum during the Soviet times, well known to everyone who read the novel “Keeper of Antiquities” by Dombrowski . The bells were dropped, but crosses stayed.

Later Cathedral became concert-exhibition hall. And then it was returned to the parishioners again. But regardless of all of this, the true citizens of all political preferences, religions and nationalities continue to love and be proud of this wonderful building in the old park. And our love does not age! I know myself that it is impossible to pass by, even if in a hurry. You will turn from your way just to admire this majestic heritage of the city once again!

In the very heart of Almaty, in an old park, nearby the magnificent Voznessenskiy cathedral, pigeons have reigned for more than one century.

Here, to one and the same permanent cooing and flickering wings flapping, time goes in different manner than at any other place. Time goes slowly here. And if there is some peculiar Almatynian rite of passage, connecting such different peoples and such unlike generations that inhabited and are inhabiting our city, then it performs right here, in the shadows of the temple.

Every one of us visited this place in his childhood, with his parents, absorbedly fed and enthusiastically chased these agitated birds, and then brought along his own children to this place for them to do the same thing, later his grandchildren, and – he who was lucky – his great grandchildren. Thus, pigeons of the Voznessenskiy cathedral (how many generations of them there were, no one knows exactly) are this very alive link that connects Almaty citizens with their past, future, and with one another. It equals local citizens with newcomers. And makes everyone love this glorious city.

This park is nearly of the same age with the city of Vernyi (now Almaty). Its fortress and settlement were founded in 1854, and the Public gardenat its southern outskirts appeared in 1856. However, its primary mission – to be a transplant nursery and provide local farmers with young fruit plants – very soon (as soon as trees accrued) faded into insignificance. As for the leisure zone, it became more significant, and it was appreciated and loved by city people.

We have trees (through thick and thin) and alleys dating from that period: birch, oak, poplar, and pine ones – they were planted by students from the local gardening school 100 years ago. Plus the pond with an artificial small island that emerged here in 1870s. And – this strange attraction that city and suburban residents of all ages still feel towards this shady park.

In my childhood the Central Recreation Park named after Gorky (Gorky parks existed in Moscow and in cities all over Soviet Union) was always the place of festivity. Despite the simplicity of amusement rides and the explicit shabbiness of food courts, the reckless excitement from entertainments added to the enthusiasm of Soviet people did let us enjoy the real proper rest. Some amateur performance at the open-air stage, Ferris wheel, children’s railway, cotton candy for kids and incredible but delicious shashlik and beer for adults, the obligatory visit of the adjoining zoo – all this I still remember in minute details.

In fact, an unspoiled person doesn’t need to rush to Disneyland to get some good rest anyway. Even more so, nowadays the park is changing right before your eyes and becomes better and more cultured.

I remember it as much as I remember my own self. Because it is our good old tradition – to visit this zoo together with your child. Not only all native Almаatynians have gone through this tradition, but the majority of people inhabiting the whole republic, too.

It even seems to me that we have been familiar with some box-inhabitants for half a century. With nervous bears, for example, or with thoughtful baboons. It is surely only an illusion. As for giraffes and rhinos, they appeared here much later for sure. But they also have become painfully familiar. Nothing can offset representatives of the wild world as much as captivity…

Well, I’ve jumped to the sad subject! However, I do know that 90 per cent of all zoo inhabitants were born from… inhabitants of other zoos. And anyway they feel much better than their siblings, which became the exhibits at zoological museums, or exotic cuisine foods. It’s a matter far from safe – to live with a human on the same planet.

Actually, our Almaty zoo that was founded back in the symbolic 1937 was always a peculiar touchstone of humanist attitude towards animals in the Soviet Union. It continues to improve itself in order to be up to its status. That is why, regardless of their level of humanity, our citizens keep on visiting the zoo with their kids as soon as they become toddlers.

Few people know that the temple of Kazakhstan science was designed by the famous Soviet architect A.V. Shchusev , who designed Lenin’s mausoleum as well.

Designing of the Academy of Sciences of the Kazakh SSR started a year later after the war. K.I. Satpayev , the first President of the Academy, in his first report said: “According to the personal instructions of Comrade Stalin, preparation of the construction of the main building of the Academy of Sciences of the Kazakh SSR is in progress, it will be a monumental building in the capital of Kazakhstan – Alma-Ata. Construction of the main building of the Academy will be completed in the fourth five-year period.”

Two years later, Moscow masters- academician Shchusev, the Stalin prize laureate and author of the Lenin’s tomb, and the architect Prostakov made two designs for this project. First one you can see on the picture, and the second you can see in reality.

The stamp “the courtier architect of Stalin” and builder of Lenin’s Mausoleum suppressed all other architectural projects and achievements of Alexei Viktorovich Shchusev. Meanwhile, he had a certain reputation even before Russia became a “country of the Bolsheviks”. Take at least, well-known to all Kazakhstan senior generation, Kazansky railway station in Moscow, construction of which began in 1914.

But, admittedly, Shchusev showed what he could do only under the new government. During the first decade, he built not only a mausoleum, but also he was the director of the Tretyakov Gallery, took care of the first Soviet reconstruction plan of Moscow (after which only fragments remained from the old Moscow); he was one of the apologists of Soviet Constructivism (hotel “Moscow” was his brainchild).