Лиззи Остром - Парфюм. История ароматов XX века

О рецептах Peau d’Espagne девятнадцатого века: G.W. Septimus Piesse, The Art of Perfumery and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants , Lindsay and Blakiston, 1857.

Havelock Ellis, Studies in the Psychology of Sex: Sexual Selection in Man, 1927.

Анализ Peau d’Espagne в декадентской поэзии: Catherine Maxwell, «Scents and Sensibility: The Fragrance of Decadence», Jason

David Hall and Alex Murray (eds.), Decadent Poetics: Literature and Form at the British Fin de Si e cle, Palgrave Macmillan, 2013.

James Joyce, Ulysses , Sylvia Beach, 1922.

O. Henry, «Past One at Rooney’s», Strictly Business: More Stories of the Four Million , Doubleday, Page & Co., 1910.

Adlington, Lucy, Great War Fashion: Tales from the History Wardrobe , The History Press, 2013.

Doyle, Peter, First World War Britain: 1914–1919 , Shire, 2012.

Gosling, Lucinda, Great War Britain: The First World War at Home , The History Press, 2014.

Nicholson, Virginia, Among the Bohemians: Experiments in Living 1900–1939, Viking, 2002.

Nicholson, Virginia, The Great Silence, John Murray, 2010.

О внутривенных инъекциях парфюма: «Perfume Now Injected», New York Times , 1 October 1912.

О «Русском балете» как источнике вдохновения для парфюмов: Davinia Caddy, The Ballets Russes and Beyond: Music and Dance in Belle- É poque Paris , Cambridge University Press, 2012.

О парфюмах в театре: «Inspiring an Actress to Act by Giving Her a Perfume «Jag», The Washington Herald , 23 May 1915; «Perfume Jag» Is Aid to Acting», Oakland Tribune , 16 May 1915.

Jean Nathan, The House of Satan , Alfred A. Knopf, 1926.

For the judgement on Caron’s attempt to protect the intellectual property of Narcisse Noir, see: Caron Corporation v. Conde, Limited , New York Supreme Court, 213 N.Y. Supp. 785.

Репортажи из сала суда во время слушаний по делу Narcisse Noir: Patent and Trademark Review , Volume 23, 1923 ; The Business Law Journal , Volume 8, 1926; The Trade-mark Reporter , Volume 17, 1927.

О рекламе, в которой упоминаются аристократы-покровители парфюмов: La Belle Assemblée , 1 December 1812.

История девушек «Гэйети»: http://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/9009, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.

О новом театре «Гэйети» и его шоу: http://www.arthurlloyd.co.uk/GaietyTheatreLondon.htm, accessed 28 April 2015.

A review of Peggy at the Gaiety Theatre in 1911, The Play Pictorial , Volume XVIII, Number 107.

Olive May quote in Poinsettia advertisement, Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News, Volume 76, 1912.

Leslie Stuart, «The Lass with the Lasso» in Peggy , 1911.

О Поле Пуаре и его парфюмах: Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, PoIret , Yale University Press, 2007; Paul PoIret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul PoIret , trans. Stephen Haden Guest, V&A Publishing, 2009.

«An Alchemist in Perfumes», Vogue , American edition, 1 August 1916.

О бале «1002-я ночь»: Aleksandr Vasil’ev, Beauty in Exile: The Artists, Models, and Nobility who Fled the Russian Revolution and Influenced the World of Fashion , Harry N. Adams, 2000.

Robert Forrest Wilson, Paris on Parade , Bobbs-Merrill, 1925.

Anne Archbald, “The Vanity Box’, Theatre Magazine , December 1922.

О женщинах, работавших во время Первой мировой войны: Susan R. Grayzel, Women ’ s Identities at War: Gender, Motherhood, and Politics in Britain and France during the First World War , University of North Carolina Press, 1999; Deborah Thom, Nice Girls and Rude Girls: Women Workers in World War I , I.B. Tauris, 1998.

Bronnley advertisement for Ess Viotto, featured in The Sketch, Volume 90, 1915.

The Sketch , 7 April 1915.

«The Lavender Country», The Farmer ’ s Magazine , July 1872.

The Sketch , 13 December 1916.

Обзор советских парфюмов: http://www.realussr.com/ussr/soviet-brands-the-scent-of-communism-part-1-of-2/, accessed 28 April 2015; Susan E. Reid, “Gender and the Destalinisation of Consumer

Taste in the Soviet Union Under Khrushchev’ in Emma Casey and

Lydia Martens (eds), Gender and Consumption: Domestic Cultures and the Commercialisation of Everyday Life, Ashgate, 2007.

Elena Skrjabina, After Leningrad: A Diary of Survival During World War II , Southern Illinois University Press, 1978.

О культурности в советской культуре: Oleg Kharkhordin, «Reveal and Dissimulate: A Genealogy of Private Life in Soviet Russia» in Jeff Weintraub and Krishan Kumar (eds), Public and Private in Thought and Practice: Perspectives on a Grand Dichotomy , University of Chicago Press, 1997.

«Perfume Commemorates Joint Space Mission’, Lakeland Ledger , 16 July 1975.

Более подробно о черно-белом фильме «Белоснежка»: Robert K. Klepper, Silent Films, 1877–1996: A Critical Guide to 646 Movies, McFarland, 1999.

О Франсуа Коти и его парфюмерном бизнесе: Roulhac B. Toledano and Elizabeth Z. Coty, Fran ç ois Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money, Pelican, 2009.

Об истории парфюмов Guerlain: Colette Fellous, Guerlain , Denoël, 1987.

Более подробно о линейке парфюмов Guerlain: http://www.monsieur-Guerlain.com, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.

Anonymous, Meditations of a Flapper. By One, Dranes, 1922.

Brogan, Hugh, The Penguin History of the United States of America , 2nd edn, Penguin, 2001.

Gorman, Daniel, The Emergence of International Society in the 1920s, Cambridge University Press, 2012.

Marshik, Celia (ed.), The Cambridge Companion to Modernist Culture , Cambridge University Press, 2014.

Miller, Nathan, New World Coming: The 1920s and the Making of Modern America , DaCapo Press, 2004.

Moore, Lucy, Anything Goes: A Biography of the Roaring Twenties , Atlantic, 2009.

Peretti, Burton W., Nightclub City: Politics and Amusement in Manhattan, University of Pennsylvania Press, 2007.

Taylor, D. J., Bright Young People: The Rise and Fall of a Generation 1918–1940 , Vintage, 2008.

О том, как школьницы ели парфюм: «Oppose Perfume Eaters», New York Times , 29 January 1924.

«Perfume and Toilet Goods Trades on Solid Basis», The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review , March 1921.