“But you could also get a plant that’s low-yielding and susceptible to disease.”
“That’s why it takes time and patience. With diligence, progeny from a successful cross can be crossed back with a parent to strengthen the desirable trait—that’s backcrossing.”
“So that’s what Ric did?” I pressed.
“Yes. Ric crossbred and backcrossed different species of Coffea plants to produce his decaffeinated hybrid.”
“And is it viable?”
“Oh, yes. It’s hearty, resistant to disease, and high-yielding. I’ve been working with him for about a year now to help him properly document his work.”
“I see.”
“Look, I understand why you made the assumption you did. I know Ric doesn’t come off as any sort of scientific genius. But he is gifted when it comes to living things. He grew up around coffee plants, and he’s a naturalist at heart. Did you know when he was just a boy, he hiked almost every inch of his native island to see all the flora and fauna?”
“But he still needed your help to get his hybrid certified, right?”
“Ric never finished his degree because he’s not very good at paperwork. If he wants legal protection for his hybrid, he needs to jump through a lot of documentation hoops—and, frankly, jumping through hoops is something I learned how to do well over the last ten years, and in more ways than one.”
That was a loaded statement if ever I’d heard one, but I wanted to keep the focus on Ric. “So everything’s legit?” I pressed. “Ric made an authentic breakthrough and you’re helping him?”
“That’s right. There’s really nothing more to it.”
“And yet... Ric seemed cagey with me when I asked why he didn’t file for protection in Brazil. You already told me Brazil is part of the international treaty to protect plant breeders’ rights, so what’s the truth?”
“The truth is... Ric doesn’t trust the officials in Brazil responsible for approving his protection certificate.”
“He’s worried about theft?”
“He’s worried they’ll charge him with theft.”
“I don’t follow.”
“Brazil’s government is very concerned about biopiracy.”
I’d heard the term before. I just didn’t see how it applied. “I’m not sure I understand...”
“Biopiracy is basically hijacking plants from their native country and patenting them for commercial exploitation in another country. In Brazil’s case, plants have been taken out of the Amazon and brought to other countries for experimentation, cultivation, and marketing.”
“But Ric’s growing his hybrid in Brazil. He’s not taking it out of the country.”
“That’s not the issue.”
“Then what is?”
Ellie shifted uncomfortably. “Matt knows this already, and you’re his partner, so I guess it’s okay to tell you, just so you’ll stop worrying.”
“Tell me what?”
Ellie’s voice dropped. “Ric discovered a plant growing wild on Costa Gravas—a naturally decaffeinated Coffea stenophylla plant.”
“Not arabica ?”
“No.”
That surprised me. Notwithstanding my botanically inaccurate reference to the plant as a “tree,” I was fairly familiar with the basic aspects of coffee as a cash crop. I knew there were many species of the plant, some decorative and some used by native cultures for stimulant value. But as far as commercial importance to farmers, there were only two players: Coffea arabica (referred to simply as arabica in the trade) and Coffea canephora (referred to as robusta ).
Arabica , which covered about 80 percent of the world’s coffee production, was the A-list star of the show. Grown at higher altitudes and considered high quality, arabica was the source for specialty coffees. Robusta was grown at lower altitudes and for years had been the source of cheaper blends and the basis for instant and canned coffees.
Within arabica , there were two “original” varieties, Coffea arabica arabica (or typica ) and Coffea arabica bourbon , out of which many unique forms had emerged, either through deliberate breeding or accidental mutations in the fields. Two such spin-off hybrids popular with farmers were Coffea arabica cattura and Coffea arabica catuai , both of which grew much shorter than the original varieties, so they were easier to harvest. They were also more resistant to disease.
Coffea stenophylla , however, was new to me, and I asked Ellie to tell me more about it.
“Historically, stenophylla was considered to be better than arabica ,” she explained. “The plant was hardier, it had a higher fruit yield, and the final product had a better flavor.”
“You’re kidding? What happened then? Why aren’t today’s farmers planting that?”
“The English took it out of West Africa in the late 1800s and grew it in their colonies—”
“That would include Jamaica then? And Ric’s old home—Costa Gravas?”
“Yes, exactly. But rust disease was a huge issue back then. It wiped out many of the plantations cultivating it. The farms had no time to recoup their losses fast, and stenophylla takes nine years to mature. Even though it produces a hardier plant with higher yields, it was abandoned in favor of the arabicas , which take only five to seven years to mature and bear fruit.”
“Okay, I follow, but where does that fit in with Ric’s breakthrough?”
“The key to Ric’s hybrid decaffeinated plant is what he and I believe is a mutation from a surviving stenophylla plant. The plant itself wouldn’t have been useful to a coffee farmer. It still took nine years to mature, its yield was low, and it produced a decaffeinated bean.”
“I follow you. A decaf bean wouldn’t have been an advantageous trait until lately, since decaf drinkers only recently became a larger percentage of the market.”
“That’s right. It wasn’t worth a farmer investing time and effort into breeding a decaffeinated plant. But Ric never felt that way. When his family was driven off their estate, he smuggled this mutated stenophylla ’s seeds and cuttings into Brazil. For years, he continued his experiments in crossbreeding using Coffea arabica plants, and finally he made his breakthrough.”
“So you’re saying the key to Ric’s hybrid is a plant he smuggled out of Costa Gravas? And the authorities there might have an issue?”
“Not just there. Brazilian officials are pushing for world sanctions on biopiracy in their own rain forests. They’d look like hypocrites if they granted protection to Ric, since Costa Gravas might very well charge him with biopiracy once the word gets out.”
“And that’s why you’re helping him file for protection outside of both countries?”
“Exactly. There won’t be any issues here in the United States. Ric’s horticultural work is real and visionary, and I can attest to its value and validity. He deserves the protection.”
“You’re his champion then?”
“Yes, I am.”
I was about to ask Ellie another question when a startled look suddenly crossed her face. “Oh,” she said. “Norbert, where did you come from?”
I turned to see Norbert standing near a potted plant, next to our table. Ellie and I had been conversing so intensely, we hadn’t noticed his arrival.
“I’m sorry,” he said, tilting his curly head. “I wasn’t sure how to interrupt you without appearing rude, but I wanted to drop off that little parting gift for your friend.” He held out a canvas tote bag with the words Brooklyn Botanic Garden embroidered on the side in forest green.
“Thank you.” I took it from him. “It’s very nice.”
Читать дальше