Upton Sinclair - The Metropolis

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I thought that my new clothes amounted to something, but my goodness, when I saw hers !" Then AHce went on to describe the unpacking of fourteen trunks, which had just come up from the custom-house that day. Mrs. Virginia's coutouriere had her photograph and her colouring (represented in actual pamts) and a figure made up from exact measurements; and so every one of the garments would fit her perfectly. Each one came stuffed with tissue paper and held in place by a lattice-work of tape; and attached to each gown was a piece of the fabric, from which her shoemaker would make shoes or slippers. There were street-costumes and opera wraps, robes de chambre and tea-gowns, reception dresses, and wonderful ball and dinner gowns. Most of these latter were to be embroidered with jewellery before they were worn, and imitation jewels were sewn on, to show how the real ones were to be placed. These garments were made of real lace or Parisian embroidery, and the prices paid for them were almost impossible to credit. Some of them were made of lace so filmy that the women who made them had to sit in damp cellars, because the sunlight would dry the fine threads and they would break; a single yard of the lace represented forty days of labour. There was a pastel "batiste de sole" Pompadour robe, embroidered with cream silk flowers, which had cost one thousand dollars. There was a hat to go with it, which had cost a hundred and twenty-five, and shoes of grey antelope skin, buckled with mother of pearl, which had cost forty. There

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was a gorgeous and intricate ball-dress of pale green chiffon satin, with orchids embroidered in oxidised silver, and a long court train, studded with diamonds — and this had cost six thousand dollars without the jewels! And there was an auto coat which had cost three thousand; and an opera wrap made in Leipsic, of white unborn baby lamb, lined with ermine, which had cost twelve thousand — with a thousand additional for a hat to match! Mrs. Landis thought nothing of paying thirty-five dollars for a lace handkerchief, or sixty dollars for a pair of spun silk hose, or two hundred dollars for a pearl and gold handled parasol trimmed with cascades of chiflfon, and made, like her hats, one for each gown.

"And she insists that these things are worth the money," said Alice. "She says it's not only the material in them, but the ideas. Each costume is a study, like a picture. 'I pay for the creative genius of the artist,' she said to me — 'for his ability to catch my ideas and apply them to my personality — my complexion and hair and eyes. Sometimes I design my own costumes, and so I know what hard work it is I"'

Mrs. Landis came from one of New York's oldest families, and she was wealthy in her own right; she had a palace on Fifth Avenue, and now that she had turned her husband out, she had nothing at all to put in it except her clothes. Alice told about the places in which she kept them — it was like a museum ! There was a gown-room, made dust-proof, of polished hardwood, and with tier upon tier of long poles run-

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ning across, and padded skirt-supporters hanging from them. Everywhere there was order and system — each skirt was numbered, and in a chiflFonier-drawer of the same number you would find the waist — and so on with hats and stockings and gloves and shoes and parasols. There was a row of closets, having shelves piled up with dainty lace-trimmed and beribboned lingerie; there were two closets full of hats and three of shoes. "When she went West,'.' said Alice, "one of her maids counted, and found that she had over four hundred pairs ! And she actually has a cabinet with a card-catalogue to keep track of them. And all the shelves are lined with perfumed silk sachets, and she has tiny sachets sewed in every skirt and waist; and she has her own private perfume — she gave me some. She calls it Coeur de Jeannette, and she says she designed it herself, and had it patented!"

And then Alice went on to describe the maid's workroom, which was also of polished hardwood, and dust-proof, and had a balcony for brushing clothes, and wires upon which to hang them, and hot and cold water, and a big ironing-table and an electric stove. "But there can't be much work to do," laughed the girl, "for she never wears a gown more than two or three times. Just think of paying several thousand dollars for a costume, and giving it to your poor relations after you have worn it only twice ! And the worst of it is that Mrs. Landis says it's all nothing unusual; you'll find such arrangements in every home of people who are socially promi-

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nent. She says there are women who boast of never appearing twice in the same gown, and there's one dreadful personage in Boston who wears each costume once, and then has it solemnly cremated by her butler!"

"It is wicked to do such things," put in old Mrs. Montague, when she had heard this tale through. "I don't see how people can get any pleasure out of it."

"That's what I said," replied Alice.

"To whom did you say that.^" asked Montague. "To Mrs. Landis.?"

'No," said Alice, "to a cousin of hers. I was downstairs waiting for her, and this girl came in. And we got to talking about it, and I said that I didn't think I could ever get used to such things."

"What did she say.?" asked the other.

"She answered me strangely," said the girl. "She's tall, and very stately, and I was a little bit afraid of her. She said, 'You'll get used to it. Everybody you know will be doing it, and if you try to do differently, they'll take offence; and you won't have the courage to do without friends. You'll be meaning every day to stop, but you never will, and you'll go on until you die.'"

"What did you say to that.?"

" Nothing," answered Alice. " Just then Mrs. Landis came in, and Miss Hegan went away."

" Miss Hegan ? " echoed Montague.

"Yes," said the other. "That's her name — Laura Hegan. Have you met her.?"

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CHAPTER VIII

THE Horse Show was held in Madison Square Garden, a building occupying a whole city block. It seemed to Montague that during the four days he attended he was introduced to enough people to fill it to the doors. Each one of the exquisite ladies and gentlemen extended to him a delicately gloved hand, and remarked what perfect weather they were having, and asked him how long he had been in New York, and what he thought of it. Then they would talk about the horses, and about the people who were present, and what they had on.

He saw little of his brother, who was squiring the Walling ladies most of the time; and Alice, too, was generally separated from him and taken care of by others. Yet he was never alone — there was always some young matron ready to lead him to her carriage and whisk him away to lunch or dinner.

Many times he wondered why people should be so kind to him, a stranger, and one who could do nothing for them in return. Mrs. Billy Alden undertook to explain it to him, one afternoon, as he sat in her box. There had to be some people to enjoy, it appeared, or there would be no fun in the game. "Everything is new and strange to you," said she, "and you're delicious and refreshing; you make these women

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think perhaps they oughtn't to be so bored after all! Here's a woman who's bought a great painting; she's told that it's great, but she doesn't understand it herself — all she knows is that it cost her a hundred thousand dollars. And now you come along, and to you it's really a painting — and don't you see how gratifying that is to her?"

"Oliver is always telling me it's bad form to admire," said the man, laughing.

"Yes ?" said the other. "Well, don't you let that brother of yours spoil you. There are more than enough of blase people in town — you be yourself."